Crank brothers pedal failure

[Geekonbike]

Yup. Speedplay Zeros on all my bikes.

I don't really get involved in the more mountain biking end of gravel riding so not a big deal for me anyway.

I should also say that the Crank Bros I had were the lower end. Get what you pay for. Although cheap shimano SPDs are the exception. They last and last.

[SleepyCyclist]

Thanks for all the replies.

I've really liked these pedals - ease in/out, good float and mainly bc I can run one pedal system on all bikes, interchange shoes, etc. Which usually means I ride my nice bikes everywhere, even cafe runs.

My main concern is why it occurred. Seems the body rocked enough that the lock nut eventually tore through the sealed bearing at the end of the axle, allowing the pedal body to slip off. Not sure how I could check for that without disassembling the pedal periodically. I've emailed CB - will see what they say.

Other options? I'd be looking for pedal systems that allow road and mtb shoes so that seems to limit me to SPDs. Or am I limiting myself by not getting a road specific pedal?

[andeww]

i have used them on all my bikes for the last 5 years and they are crap. I actually live directly behind their Corp office and i am positive they will ship you a free set if you reach out to them. Been meaning to switch over to Time Atacs but havent made the jump yet

[vqdriver]

Originally Posted by MandM

Other options? I'd be looking for pedal systems that allow road and mtb shoes so that seems to limit me to SPDs. Or am I limiting myself by not getting a road specific pedal?

just get xtr or xt pedals and be done with it. they're always on sale and cost less than their road counterparts anyway.
also 2 bolt so you keep your existing shoes.

[pasadena]

You have the cheapest candy pedal there. it just uses plastic bushings with a plastic body.
They will replace it but maybe ask if they will give you credit to upgrade to a higher model.
Maybe you are a wattage monster

I use eggbeaters on road and mtb. You can buy Look style cleats for road shoes.

Every pedal can have problems. I've seen Speedplays explode and the rider now has new teeth and bones.
Cheap Time's snap on the regular.

Shimano is always solid and reliable it seems. Never heard of issues except they seem to set the tension to max from the factory and everyone falls over trying new ones.

Originally Posted by MandM

Thanks for all the replies.



I've really liked these pedals - ease in/out, good float and mainly bc I can run one pedal system on all bikes, interchange shoes, etc. Which usually means I ride my nice bikes everywhere, even cafe runs.



My main concern is why it occurred. Seems the body rocked enough that the lock nut eventually tore through the sealed bearing at the end of the axle, allowing the pedal body to slip off. Not sure how I could check for that without disassembling the pedal periodically. I've emailed CB - will see what they say.



Other options? I'd be looking for pedal systems that allow road and mtb shoes so that seems to limit me to SPDs. Or am I limiting myself by not getting a road specific pedal?

[ptourkin]

Originally Posted by TBLS

Agree the lower level pedals are wear items...staring at 2 worn sets on my workbench now. The ones with metal bodies wear longer...with the price of pedals near the cleat cost hard to expect more

My xt pedals lasted 20 years...if not for the financial stress of replacing 3 pair to convert back to shimano I would I would take the leap back

I'm still using a set of the original M747.

[moose8]

I’ve been using them for a good 7 years or so and never had any real issues. I had a cheap pair of candies that stopped spinning but the egg beaters have never given me any problems. I’m not light either.

[dustyrider]

Since you like the crank-brothers pedal interface you should look at some atacs. It’s the only clipless pedal I run. No need to buy to new. I’m still using a few pairs from the late nineties, early aughts!

[Johnny P]

I've got Candy pedals and all three of my bikes and haven't had any problems.

[Steve in SLO]

A few years ago at the Sea Otter Classic (big bike race festival in Monterery, CA) Crank Bros had a double E-Z up with a number of stations where customers could do their own pedal bearing replacements, and the stations were always full. That told me all I needed to know.

[CDM]

Good luck

[rockdude]

I have eggs beater on my CX bikes and MTB. I blow through a paid or two a year. Just keep a bearing replacement kit on hand. $20 and a 5 minute job and you rolling again.

[SleepyCyclist]

Bearing replacements - no big deal.

But this wasn't a bad bearing or a loose nylock nut. Not sure why this happened - which is my main concern.

Too much play in the body allowed the nylock nut to gradually eat through the sealed bearing?

Checking the other pedal of this pair and it feels fine - no excessive axle play that could have been an indication that it's loose.

Looking at SPDs maintenance videos and the pedal body is held to the axle by a threaded portion (on the inner side of the axle) - seems much more secure. Plus you would notice if it was gradually unthreading.

But I agree with others that have been using CB for many years - I am one of them too. No complaint until now. But this failure and the unclear reason for why (or how to detect/avoid it in the future) has shaken my confidence.

[SleepyCyclist]

Found these in parts bin.
What was old is new again!



Ordered some new xtr spds as well - though don’t know if much has changed in the actual spd interface.

[dave thompson]

Originally Posted by MandM

Bearing replacements - no big deal.

But this wasn't a bad bearing or a loose nylock nut. Not sure why this happened - which is my main concern.

Too much play in the body allowed the nylock nut to gradually eat through the sealed bearing?

Checking the other pedal of this pair and it feels fine - no excessive axle play that could have been an indication that it's loose.

Looking at SPDs maintenance videos and the pedal body is held to the axle by a threaded portion (on the inner side of the axle) - seems much more secure. Plus you would notice if it was gradually unthreading.

The special Shimano tool needed to take them apart for maintenance is something like $2.99 and widely available.


But I agree with others that have been using CB for many years - I am one of them too. No complaint until now. But this failure and the unclear reason for why (or how to detect/avoid it in the future) has shaken my confidence.

I service my SPD and SPD-SL every year (they’re both similarly built internally) and I can say categorically that they WILL NOT unscrew themselves and are as durable as hell!