Disc Brakes 101

[cachagua]

I'm about to put my first disc bike on the road (and another one right after it). So what do I need to know?

I'll be using TRP cable-actuated calipers, the Hy/Rds. They seem to come either with or without rotors. Are the rotors that come with them any decent? Should I buy some other ones, and if so what kind? Same for pads: lotta different kinds available, I don't know from Shinola.

And I'm supposed to use non-compressible housing. The segmented stuff? Can you still get that? Yokozuna? Something else?

There are black Hy/Rds that have been available for a while, and more recently there are silver ones. More expensive, most places. Are they an updated model, or just a different color?

And -- this is the whole idea, isn't it? I should be able to use the same levers as for regular rim brakes, without having to swap to some long-pull style?

Thanks in advance. I'm hoping the collective wisdom here should save me some wrong turns I'd make trying to teach myself.

[NHAero]

This link might help.
I have compressionless housing on my cable actuated mechanical BB7 disc brakes, both road and MTB, and I think it really helps. None of it is Yokozuna - I think it's Jagwire brand.

[R3awak3n]

if you can go full hydro, do that. Its miles better than cable discs or hybrids.

also if you have campy, I would definitely not recommend any of the TRP brakes.

yes, do you compression less housing, it will make a big difference.

also the rotors that come with them suck, I would get some shimano ice tech rotors, world of difference. The pads are also not great but I would use them till you wear em out.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Hmm. I guess I'll differ on a few points. TRP rotors (even the standard "14" models) do not suck. Like a lot of systems on a bike, they represent the total of the components involved and how well or poorly they are setup. I've been using the basic TRP rotors on my XT equipped MTB and have no complaints. That said, yes, there are nicer (lighter, cooler running) rotors available. I've used Shimano XTR RT97 rotors, Magura Storm SL and Avid Centerline X rotors. They've all worked great for me, but I couldn't isolate the performance to the rotor. If the rotors that come with the calipers fit your needs (diameter and 6-bolt) then, sure, go with them.

Same for the stock TRP pads. I've setup two sets and followed the guidelines to bed-in the pads/rotors well and braking was on point. This is key.

Yes, there is a version 1 and version 2 of the Hy/Rd (high road) calipers. Any rotor you buy new, even on eBay, should be the updated version. I did a quick look, but couldn't find again how to differentiate. IIRC, it had to do with the actuating arm to which the cable secures. A call to Tektro will help you if you're unsure. IME, they are great help. Black or silver color is not a way to determine, I don't believe.

Housing is very important. VERY important. It can absolutely be the only difference between poor or great braking. Yokozuna is probably near zero compression and great stuff. But, it has a compromise; it's super stiff. Duh, right? It's not a problem in some areas, but it certainly is on some installations. Tight bends are not a friend. I think the Jagwire Pro stuff is great and maybe a little more flexible than Yokozuna, but I have only held it in my hand and never set a bike up with it.

I am really happy with my Jagwire Elite Link segmented housing. It laughs at bends, is crazy light, zero compression and will last for. . . who knows how long? You just replace the liner and cables when needed. It's expensive, but the shifter and brake housing are the same and you can buy additional links to add on to your initial kit. If you keep just a few bikes I think the Elite Link makes sense to share among them.

What are your frame and component details?

[cachagua]

What are your frame and component details?

Two disc bikes on my horizon: first is this little coffee bean, which is getting a disc tab in the back and a new fork, and the other is this beauty, which is coming to me frame/fork/wheels.

Both bikes will be running 8-speed. Practically speaking, this pretty well eliminates full-hydraulic, and the Hy/Rds look like the best hybrid set-up (although I'm open to suggestion, if there are others). I'm okay with the compromises involved, but I want to find out how to optimize the brakes I choose for performance and reliability, and that's what I'm trying to ask about here.

So let the tips, lore, and sage advice roll!

[GParkes]

Along this same line, I'm considering building a road frame this winter and was going to stay traditional caliper brakes. However, in the back of my mind I have disc floating around, but I don't want to spend a fortune on hydro levers/full set up. Are there still good mechanical disc brakes out there that will work with SRAM (Force or Rival)? If so, what brands. And no hating on SRAM. Thanks gang.

[ColonelJLloyd]

Spyre SLC calipers worked great with SRAM 22 levers for me.

[GParkes]

Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd

Spyre SLC calipers worked great with SRAM 22 levers for me.

Thanks for the tip. Something to keep in mind. I have some time to decide on it.

[sdrides]

I've set up dozens of mountain bikes with BB7's and BB5's over the years, and run these brakes on a few of my own bikes as well. Always have used stock brake housing and have always enjoyed the braking performance. What is it about the road setups that makes compressionless housing so much more desirable than on a MTB? Is it something with cable pull ratios? Internals of the levers?

[ColonelJLloyd]

Originally Posted by sdrides

I've set up dozens of mountain bikes with BB7's and BB5's over the years, and run these brakes on a few of my own bikes as well. Always have used stock brake housing and have always enjoyed the braking performance. What is it about the road setups that makes compressionless housing so much more desirable than on a MTB? Is it something with cable pull ratios? Internals of the levers?

"You can't miss what you never had." -Hunter S. Thompson

[bshell]

Avid BB7s for MTB must be designed differently or something because I've had them on my MTB and SSMTB for @15 years and think they are fantastic and TOTALLY hassle free. The stock rotors and sintered(whatever that is)metallic pads last aaages. Shimano 'whatever' standard brake housing too!

Whenever I think about a disc CX or disc road bike I get anxious because of all the dissatisfaction I see in the comments regarding mechanical disc... I don't wants no hydro!

[fogrider]

It seems like everyone I've talked to that have used both cable and hydro brakes have said that hydro was the way to go. The few times that I"ve test ridden hydro brakes, it's all about the feel.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by bshell

Avid BB7s for MTB must be designed differently or something because I've had them on my MTB and SSMTB for @15 years and think they are fantastic and TOTALLY hassle free. The stock rotors and sintered(whatever that is)metallic pads last aaages. Shimano 'whatever' standard brake housing too!

Cable actuated road and MTB disc brake calipers are different; specifically, road disc calipers are designed to operate with road brake levers, which have higher leverage/shorter cable travel than MTB brake levers, which are lower leverage/longer cable travel. I've used both the road and MTB versions of Avid BB7 disc brakes, and the MTB version has a smoother modulation than the road version.