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  #16  
Old 07-01-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tuscanyswe View Post
Either B or C imo. The thinking that you may cary the wheels over to the next dream build etc never really works out imo so i wouldn't spend what A requires if i dident allrdy love the rest.
Agreed. Way easier to find, cheaper, and fits with my goal here with this scrappy build.

So, now it is between trendy 650 wheels or speedier cross wheels?
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2017, 03:25 PM
tuscanyswe tuscanyswe is offline
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I haven't tried 650b with some plush tires so i would probably go that rout just to explore it if i could find a set for reasonable monies. 700c is ofc readily available at very good prices so maybe its just a matter of what pops up at the right time if you dont really have a preference
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  #18  
Old 07-01-2017, 06:36 PM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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650b dynamo disc wheelset. 15mm thru axle Shutter Precision centerlock hub (it comes with QR adapter) or 15x100 SON. Rear hub with 11s road compatible cassette and convertible end caps (DT 350 for example). Lightweight aluminum rims with 23-26mm internal width. Double butted spokes (28-32h). Tubeless. You can keep still manage an 1800g-1900g weight including tape and valves. Make it a nice wheelset. It makes a real difference in the joy of riding and you'll use it on multiple frames.

That or go really cheap as a proof of concept.
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2017, 07:21 AM
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[QUOTE=Tickdoc;2197383]Ok,

Quote:
making progress slowly.

Aerospace mechanic friend is machining a derailleur hanger for me as we speak for a case of beer.

Was originally shooting for Alfine rear hub, Dino front hub, and gates drive.

I have decided to just do this one on the cheap, as it is not a bike I'm not likely to love, but rather a useful bike for commuting, gravel, and bad weather.

I'm $200 all in so far as I bought the Bike in 3sp fixie form.

Decided to use the steel fork that came with the bike as it is already disc and fender ready.

I have a full ultegra groupset (10sp 6800) just sitting in a box that will work fine for now. Just don't tell old potatoe and please don't tell weisan

Ritchey wcs bar, stem, seatpost all good.

I have an avid front disc brake (bb7 road) and I figure I'll just buy another for the rear as it is cheap, easy, and I hear works with the sti levers.

Wheels.......I need wheels.

Should I:

A) spend the money to have have a dyno front hub 650 set built so I can run ballooney tires and light up the night?
B) just buy a used set of 650 shimano disc wheels to get it on the road?
C) go with 700 size and use cross sized tires?
I don't have to ride it..

I'd go for 'C'..far more tire selection and you just want to commute, or thrash it in the muck.
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  #20  
Old 07-03-2017, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Tickdoc View Post

I have a full ultegra groupset (10sp 6800) just sitting in a box that will work fine for now. Just don't tell old poatatoe.
Utoh I think the Spud is on to you? You better run!
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  #21  
Old 07-04-2017, 06:36 PM
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Waiting on my derailleur hanger, I am obsessing over wheel choice.

I think I'm pretty set to try a 650b disc set.

But I'm so ignorant at this side of things, that I'm shy to pull the trigger on any, for fear they won't work.

I think I want to try the wtb byway tire for this build: road and gravel at the same time with more bite than their horizon.



So, my latest stupid question is this: do I need wide mtb rims for this? Road rims? What width range do this tires work with?

Is there a difference in a mtb specific set of wheels v. A road/allroad 650 size set?

I don't have any tubeless aspirations, I'm fine with tubes so that is not a huge concern.

Up next? I'm sure I'll have another "what the hell am I doing here" headscrather soon.
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  #22  
Old 08-02-2017, 08:55 AM
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making progress

Dropout not back from machinist yet, and I still haven't found the screws for the front disc, but it is almost ready for build, and I can't wait to see how those big byways ride.

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  #23  
Old 08-02-2017, 09:02 AM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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Originally Posted by Tickdoc View Post
still haven't found the screws for the front disc
Are you talking about the rotor mounting bolts? It's a simple M5x.8x10mm bolt, preferably pan head. That's the size used all over bicycles (H2O cages, rack/fender mounts, etc).
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  #24  
Old 08-02-2017, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
Are you talking about the rotor mounting bolts? It's a simple M5x.8x10mm bolt, preferably pan head. That's the size used all over bicycles (H2O cages, rack/fender mounts, etc).
yes, 10mm, torx bolt. I put them in a baggie and attached to the disc cable when I removed the disc way back but they have vanished. I need to pick more up at lbs when I get a few other bits and pieces for the build.
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2017, 09:21 AM
ColonelJLloyd ColonelJLloyd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tickdoc View Post
yes, 10mm, torx bolt. I put them in a baggie and attached to the disc cable when I removed the disc way back but they have vanished. I need to pick more up at lbs when I get a few other bits and pieces for the build.
They don't have to be Torx head, FWIW.
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2017, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by ColonelJLloyd View Post
They don't have to be Torx head, FWIW.
Home Depot carries them too.
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  #27  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:47 PM
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Progress update

I love how a simple build can turn so complicated.

Drive side sliding dropout is making progress again.

Here’s a pic of it almost finished:



Unfortunately my friend making the part lost his 19yr old son suddenly late this summer and his life has been a little complicated since.

I didn’t want to bug him any, so I reached out after two months and now the project is back online.

So excited to see if this is going to work.

Curious question for the forum:

What should I pay for this custom built ti part?

He is doing it for free, but I plan on paying because that is way too much work just for fun.

$100 ok?
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  #28  
Old 11-24-2017, 07:56 PM
Kontact Kontact is offline
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I think I would have just cut the hanger off a junked frame and had it welded on to your dropout. 10 minutes work.
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  #29  
Old 11-24-2017, 08:17 PM
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R3awak3n R3awak3n is offline
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Originally Posted by Kontact View Post
I think I would have just cut the hanger off a junked frame and had it welded on to your dropout. 10 minutes work.
yeah but where is the fun in that?
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  #30  
Old 11-25-2017, 07:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tickdoc View Post
I love how a simple build can turn so complicated.

Drive side sliding dropout is making progress again.

Here’s a pic of it almost finished:



Unfortunately my friend making the part lost his 19yr old son suddenly late this summer and his life has been a little complicated since.

I didn’t want to bug him any, so I reached out after two months and now the project is back online.

So excited to see if this is going to work.

Curious question for the forum:

What should I pay for this custom built ti part?

He is doing it for free, but I plan on paying because that is way too much work just for fun.

$100 ok?
It's coming together. $100 is always a nice number. But meaningful gift or, in light of his loss, maybe going out for some fun would be a better gesture?

Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
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