#16
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So, now it is between trendy 650 wheels or speedier cross wheels?
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#17
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I haven't tried 650b with some plush tires so i would probably go that rout just to explore it if i could find a set for reasonable monies. 700c is ofc readily available at very good prices so maybe its just a matter of what pops up at the right time if you dont really have a preference
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#18
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650b dynamo disc wheelset. 15mm thru axle Shutter Precision centerlock hub (it comes with QR adapter) or 15x100 SON. Rear hub with 11s road compatible cassette and convertible end caps (DT 350 for example). Lightweight aluminum rims with 23-26mm internal width. Double butted spokes (28-32h). Tubeless. You can keep still manage an 1800g-1900g weight including tape and valves. Make it a nice wheelset. It makes a real difference in the joy of riding and you'll use it on multiple frames.
That or go really cheap as a proof of concept. |
#19
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[QUOTE=Tickdoc;2197383]Ok,
Quote:
I'd go for 'C'..far more tire selection and you just want to commute, or thrash it in the muck.
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Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#20
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Utoh I think the Spud is on to you? You better run!
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#21
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Waiting on my derailleur hanger, I am obsessing over wheel choice.
I think I'm pretty set to try a 650b disc set. But I'm so ignorant at this side of things, that I'm shy to pull the trigger on any, for fear they won't work. I think I want to try the wtb byway tire for this build: road and gravel at the same time with more bite than their horizon. So, my latest stupid question is this: do I need wide mtb rims for this? Road rims? What width range do this tires work with? Is there a difference in a mtb specific set of wheels v. A road/allroad 650 size set? I don't have any tubeless aspirations, I'm fine with tubes so that is not a huge concern. Up next? I'm sure I'll have another "what the hell am I doing here" headscrather soon.
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#22
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making progress
Dropout not back from machinist yet, and I still haven't found the screws for the front disc, but it is almost ready for build, and I can't wait to see how those big byways ride.
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#23
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Are you talking about the rotor mounting bolts? It's a simple M5x.8x10mm bolt, preferably pan head. That's the size used all over bicycles (H2O cages, rack/fender mounts, etc).
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#24
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yes, 10mm, torx bolt. I put them in a baggie and attached to the disc cable when I removed the disc way back but they have vanished. I need to pick more up at lbs when I get a few other bits and pieces for the build.
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#25
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They don't have to be Torx head, FWIW.
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#26
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Home Depot carries them too.
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#27
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Progress update
I love how a simple build can turn so complicated.
Drive side sliding dropout is making progress again. Here’s a pic of it almost finished: Unfortunately my friend making the part lost his 19yr old son suddenly late this summer and his life has been a little complicated since. I didn’t want to bug him any, so I reached out after two months and now the project is back online. So excited to see if this is going to work. Curious question for the forum: What should I pay for this custom built ti part? He is doing it for free, but I plan on paying because that is way too much work just for fun. $100 ok?
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#28
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I think I would have just cut the hanger off a junked frame and had it welded on to your dropout. 10 minutes work.
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#29
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yeah but where is the fun in that?
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#30
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Quote:
Sent from my LG-H872 using Tapatalk
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http://thebicyclewizards.com/ |
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