#1
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Chris King Hub Play
How much play is appropriate? I've tightened it up and still have a little lateral movement when the wheel is in the drop outs -- not sure if it's appropriate or not?
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bonCourage!cycling |
#2
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Off the bike, tighten the preload adjuster so that it is as loose as possible but that there is no play at all. Then loosen it 1/16 of a turn. Once you clamp the wheel with the skewer there should be just the slightest amount of play.
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http://fairwheelbikes.com Last edited by madcow; 06-18-2015 at 10:02 AM. |
#3
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Okay -- i think i'm good then.
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bonCourage!cycling |
#4
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You may have play between the bearing cartridges and the hub shell. This occasionally happens and isn't solved by tightening up the bearing adjustment. Worth checking. The bearings are a precision fit and if spoke tensioning pulls the hub so the bearing comes loose, CK needs to replace with a slightly larger diameter bearing.
Usually when you first tension a wheel, you have to adjust bearing play slightly anyway. And clamping in stay ends can further alter adjustment, which means you basically need to do the off-the-bike adjustment, then coax it a bit once it's clamped in the frame. CK incorporates a lot more precision than many other brands, but it can make adjustment a little frustrating. The result is worth it. |
#5
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I've only seen that happen in the drive side of a rear hub and usually from over tensioned spokes. Anyone ever seen this in a front hub?
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The White Zone is for loading and unloading only. |
#6
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If you've got oversized bearing bores, one's first symptom will be creaking, long before noticeable movement.
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#7
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Quote:
To another point here, sometimes one hears creaking first, sometimes not. And creaking doesn't mean the bearing is going to be loose, either. Two different phenomena. |
#8
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Some good tips in this thread as well..
http://forums.thepaceline.net/showth...ghlight=splash Splash |
#9
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Just drudging this up -- I've hardly ridden these wheels over the past few years, had it adjusted when I built up the corsa (this is the rear wheel, by the way).
Picked it up from the shop and I could grab the tire and it wouldn't 'shift.' After the maiden voyage, got home, grabbed it, and sure enough, it shifted back and forth (left to right). My local shop, for whom I worked for many years, apparently doesn't have a CK hub tool. We didn't do a lot of wheel building, so I suppose I get it, and most of the hubs they deal with are wheels out of boxes, so.. The big question, I suppose, is whether it's "okay" to ride like this, or do I need to go and buy the hub tool and tear it down and see what's going on inside?
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bonCourage!cycling |
#10
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Adjustment is simple and only reqiures the use of common hex wrenches. No need for the special CK tool for this. Do not know which hub you have - find directions here: https://www.chrisking.com/support/instructions/ |
#11
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Quote:
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bonCourage!cycling |
#12
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Mine took on the order of 4-5 thousand miles before they settled down.
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#13
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So you're saying keep riding and keep adjusting it, and eventually it shouldn't 'loosen' up?
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bonCourage!cycling |
#14
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CK hubs are way overrated. There is something to be said for a hub that runs smooth from the beginning and has simple means of adjusting.My vent from having to take in my CK hub wheels for adjusting after hearing rocks grind away inside of them...
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#15
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Quote:
That said, I have never paid MSRP for any of them. I've gotten them on sale by sheer luck or lightly used. Last edited by berserk87; 01-06-2017 at 11:06 AM. |
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