Calling old potatoe and other campagnolo experts

[Caballero]

I have a pair of 2015 super record shifters that don’t shift !
However the front/left shifter doesn’t engage or click ? Any idea what the reason could be ?
Just a smooth stroke ???
It also curiously has a rusted pin / pivot on the outside left of the shift body under the hood. Other parts don’t look like they have any corrosion or rust spots.

[choke]

Try tightening the small bolts which hold the shifter assembly together. The brake lever has to be removed to get to the front one.

[Caballero]

Thanks choke ! I'll have a look and report back !!

[Caballero]

Check out this video -

https://youtu.be/RcvyeWeaIh4

[macaroon]

Probably worth stripping them down, checking everything is in order and then putting them back together. It's a straight forward task.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5mzR8-rh8M

He removes a spring at 2:09 seconds; leave this in place as you don't need to remove it and it can be a bit fiddly to put back in.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Caballero

I have a pair of 2015 super record shifters that don’t shift !
However the front/left shifter doesn’t engage or click ? Any idea what the reason could be ?
Just a smooth stroke ???
It also curiously has a rusted pin / pivot on the outside left of the shift body under the hood. Other parts don’t look like they have any corrosion or rust spots.

Yup, mentioned, tighten the wee bolts that hold the front and rear 'guts' together. Remove the brake blade to access the front one(that pn is unidirectional, BTW-the one that holds the brake blade on)..I also re-install with a bit of blue locktite..and they are torx..

Outside left of the shift body? There is a little adjust screw there that adjusts the shift lever blade in and out.
For right above, yup, not hard, the spring that centers the shift lever can be vexing..and make sure it's put back together in the correct order...and use a bit of grease, just a little, not dry like desert like all Campag videos.

AND at 3:44, when that spring is reinstalled, it's far easier to make a little tool that grabs the spring end and gets it into the slot after installing the central bolt. ..I modified a thin flat blade screw driver.

[gfk_velo]

Originally Posted by Caballero

I have a pair of 2015 super record shifters that don’t shift !
However the front/left shifter doesn’t engage or click ? Any idea what the reason could be ?
Just a smooth stroke ???
It also curiously has a rusted pin / pivot on the outside left of the shift body under the hood. Other parts don’t look like they have any corrosion or rust spots.

From the way you describe it, the most likely thing is that the internal has been over-rotated going from small ring to big.
Exactly the same problem, BTW, can affect both left and right levers - we see more over-rotated RH levers than left, by far, though, where a customer has been hunting for the bottom (biggest) sprocket in a badly set up system.

That's not to say that none of the other answers here are in error - but we see at least one lever in the state that I believe you are describing, sometimes two or three, a month.

There is a moulded-in plastic stop inside the lever body designed to limit the rotation of the internals, by blocking the motion of the drive ring at the front of the shifter. It acts when you use the finger lever (normally referred to by Campag techs as "lever 2" or just "L2"). In a LH lever, it allows seven clicks worth of rotation freely but if the FD is badly set up or being used in some fashion with (maybe) an out-of-spec crankset, some users will try and force an extra click to get the chain to upshift.

In these circumstances it's possible to drive the internal past that plastic stop (which either breaks all the way off or is badly compromised) and this means that the thumb lever pawl now can't reach the other drive ratchet, on the shift clutch, that drives the internal in the other direction: the pawl just slides over the smooth circumference of the shift clutch.

Solutions -

Quick and dirty .... if there is a cable in the shifter, give it a good hard pull and you can move the internal backwards, since in UltraShift, Campag use an ungated ratchet that can be pulled backwards. Upside - it's a quick easy fix. Downside, if the stop was only damaged, this will break it - but if damaged, it's compromised in any case - see my note further on about that ...

If there is no cable installed, strip and rebuild.

If the stop is compromised or broken off, the shifter will always be prone to being put back into this state if set up / used incorrectly. If the stop is only compromised, this can happen but there will be a hesitation that you may or may not feel, before the mechanism ends up "over-rotated". If it's broken, the shifter will go straight into the over-rotated state with no hesitation felt.

If the derailleur (F or R) is the correct derailleur for the shifter, being used in a system set up correctly with all the correct parts, in the case of a FD you should never get close to the shifter being in this state in normal use, as you should only be using the 1st three clicks anyway. On a RD, the limit screw will stop the shifter ending up in this condition, if correctly assembled and set up.

The factory fixes, if you decide to rectify the stop problem are:
1. A new shifter body assembly complete with internals, EC-RE300
2. Cannibalise another shifter of the same type & generation that has some other problem and use the body shell (the spare body shell only is not available from the factory).

There is another fix that we sometimes use for customers but I'm not going to describe it here because if you (or anyone who trips over this thread) finds it and tries it, and makes a Horlicks of it, we cannot accept liability! We'll do it for a customer because we know exactly how to do it & what the risks are - and know it'll be done right. If we make a mess of it, we'll know and replace the lever body ...

I'd advise against playing with the small screw that Old Potatoe mentions, unless you know exactly what you are doing.

It's function is to laterally align L2 with the brake lever (some variation in the moulding of the composite shifter body means that the brake lever can hang slightly differently in some bodies, compared to others).

In a factory-assembled pair of shifters, that screw is set at the factory and then flashed over with silicone sealant as in normal circumstances it never needs to be moved again.

In a replacement unit, that screw is left open so that when the brake lever is fitted, the lateral position of the finger lever can be adjusted if needs be.

The problem is that in screwing it in, if you go too far, you can significantly influence the amount the clutch moves before the 1st click ... so changing the overall amount of cable recovery and so the movement of the derailleur. It's more of a problem on the RD than the FD but it can cause an issue which is why we advise to leave it alone, unless you know what you are about.

[cmg]

on the inside shifting lever, the bracket that holds ec-rs062 has a spring loaded metal block that ratchets against the small cog. look at 3:12 in the video. it provides the click on up shifts, there is a spring that keeps this block riding the cog, campy reduced the diameter of this spring and a result they are not as durable as the used to be, that and it maybe dirt clogged. flip the bike over and observe the shifting mechanism in action.

[Caballero]

Cheers guys. I’ll give all these a shot.
The shifters only got circa. 250miles on it apparently !

[Ungaro]

Also, don't overlook the lube port under the hoods. A shot of high quality stiff keeps everything happy. I've recently been using Boeshield.

[Black Dog]

Originally Posted by Ungaro

Also, don't overlook the lube port under the hoods. A shot of high quality stiff keeps everything happy. I've recently been using Boeshield.

Lube port?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Black Dog

Lube port?

Not sure either..lever upside down and you can see most all of the shift guts. BUT the shift lever blade and particularly the thumb button rely on being able to pivot..a spray at the pivot point goes a long way.