#1
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Post-mount disc adapter to 180 mm rotor?
I continue to burn through rotors on my gravel bike (1500 miles to get below the 1.5 mm wear mark, and then I run them until they howl and look shagged - usually around 1.3 mm) and pads (resin - ~1000 miles, I'll probably try metallic at one end next but that'll probably just make my rotor problem worse.)
I totally admit I am the absolute worst-case rider - terrible conditions, 15-30% grades for miles and miles and miles.. etc. Anyways, I'm thinking for my next rotor I should size up if I can, technically the Shimano BR-RS785 only go up to 160 mm, but they were based on the XT caliper.. so I'm wondering if anyone has tried using a 180 mm adapter with them? Like this: SM-MA80 adapter |
#2
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They will work fine with the 180 adaptor. Not sure if your frame can handle that size rotor. Ask the manufacturer.
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#3
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Awesome - radial clearance looks pretty tight in the rear, but the fork looks alright. I'll pick up one adapter and one rotor and see how it goes!
It's a total drag constantly replacing parts - since there are 4 pieces wearing out at different times, I feel like every 2 weeks I'm swapping out brake stuff! Plus it is expensive with $45 rotors and $20 pads. (of course, I wouldn't be going on these rides at all if I didn't have the hydro discs, so I guess I can't complain too much!) |
#4
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I can confirm 180 mm rotors will work front and rear. Frame was custom built with this in mind.
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#6
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Thanks guys! eBAUMANN I'll ping ya when I test fit the first set, ideally I'd prefer to run the same rotor size front/rear out of convenience.
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#7
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Rotors
How much do you weigh?
What brake caliper are you running? Do you tend to drag brakes? I ride in exact same area and easily get a 1-1.5 years out of a rotor. Before buying bigger rotors I suggest buying pads in bulk and changing them more often. You can buy boxes of 25 sets of Shimano pads without packaging for a lot less per set than packaged pads. Maybe go in on a box with one or more friends? |
#8
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165 pounds, BR-RS785 (post-mount, so the larger pads than the new flat mount calipers)
I absolutely drag the brakes, I try to pulse and alternate as much as possible, but riding steep dirt on the gravel bike, you pretty much have to ride them to avoid going too fast and crashing, I also ride through the wet stuff so I'm sure the mud/grit doesn't help. Typical weekend rides (er, not bragging really.. just to give an idea that my riding is probably not "normal" gravel riding.. which is probably also why no one wants to go riding with me! https://www.strava.com/activities/1272969162 https://www.strava.com/activities/1263211139 https://www.strava.com/activities/1252885398 https://www.strava.com/activities/1242734657 My bike has 4300 miles on it, and I'm about through my 3rd set of rotors (and probably 5 sets of pads - I didn't really start tracking until I put on the last set of rotors & pads.) Buying in bulk is a great idea for pads - I will definitely check that out. |
#9
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pads
3rd set of rotors over only 5 sets of pads leads me to believe that you don't change pads soon enough.
Those are good rides for sure- I'd do that if I lived close by. But I agree- with that kind of vertical most would prefer to be on a mountain bike. And lots of vertical means lot of decending- Larger rotors will stay cool longer, but I still think the issue is pads if you are blowing through rotors that quickly. Bulk pads are a cheaper and better answer I think- Quote:
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