fit critiques please.

[jadmt]

so riders who know way more than me please weigh in on fit. fire away I can take criticism ~65yoa and fat but working on getting in shape. seat too high, low or in ball park? same with set back? forgive the gut...it is taking a while to pare it down a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AUfb_ori0dc

[reuben]

Looks OK to me, but I'm no expert. That chain and rear derailleur, however...

[jadmt]

Originally Posted by reuben

Looks OK to me, but I'm no expert. That chain and rear derailleur, however...

Its a 1x11 and according to two different techs needs to be that way.

[reuben]

Originally Posted by jadmt

Its a 1x11 and according to two different techs needs to be that way.

Well then I guess I'm not an expert on that, either!

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by reuben

Looks OK to me, but I'm no expert. That chain and rear derailleur, however...

I agree; but I can't see the drive side to see what's going on.

Originally Posted by jadmt

Its a 1x11 and according to two different techs needs to be that way.

If you're riding in the small cog in the back then the chain is too long, or you should not be using that gear and using an equivalent gear in the large ring.

Show us a video from the other side, and tell us what rear cog you're riding in.

Now for the critique:

Your saddle might be too high. It looks like your hips are rocking but hard to confirm with a side view. But listening to your oscillating tire scrub on the rollers as you pedal, that pulsing noise leads me to believe you might not be able to maintain a smooth cadence because of the possible too high saddle.

Glad you're riding rollers; they will expose bad pedaling habits, and teach good ones.

Saddle fore/aft is too hard for me to tell.

Your upper body position and reach to the bars looks good.

[jadmt]

Yes it is in smallest cog (11) . It only has one chain ring (42) and when is in the 42 tooth on the cog it is pretty tight pulled forward. I agree it looks pretty wacked so maybe the two techs were incorrect. It was in two different shops. It does shift really well.

I will drop the saddle a bit and give that a try.

[Peter P.]

Thanks for the reply.

I'd question whether the derailleur is made to handle that wide range cassette.

Assuming it is, then I'd say you need a double chainring setup so you could use larger gears. I think you've run out of gear in that 42.

Try pumping your tires up to max. psi., just for roller riding.

And your cadence is low.

Lastly, I like the fact you're trying to protect your steel frame from sweat. It IS a necessity for steel frames.

Blackburn used to offer a "sweat net" which conveniently covered the vulnerable areas. I can't find it on their web site but it looks like it's still available elsewhere.

[reuben]

Garmin/Tacx make two sweatguards. I have the less expensive one.

https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/690903

https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/690900

Cycleops and pretty much any other company that makes indoor trainers make them as well.

[jadmt]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

Thanks for the reply.

I'd question whether the derailleur is made to handle that wide range cassette.

Assuming it is, then I'd say you need a double chainring setup so you could use larger gears. I think you've run out of gear in that 42.

Try pumping your tires up to max. psi., just for roller riding.

And your cadence is low.

Lastly, I like the fact you're trying to protect your steel frame from sweat. It IS a necessity for steel frames.

Blackburn used to offer a "sweat net" which conveniently covered the vulnerable areas. I can't find it on their web site but it looks like it's still available elsewhere.

The derailleur is a shimano deore made for even more range than what i am running. I don’t get any chain slap and shifts very nice up an down and the chain does not touch itself. It was built by a professional shop. What are the drawbacks if the chain is too long? I have around 3000 miles on it since july . I will pick up a sweat guard for sure. I will also up the psi. I was trying to keep cadence in the 80’s l can try and up it a bit. I want to stay 1x and not sure i want to go bigger than 42 as i live in montana so we have some elevation changes. Thanks

[jadmt]

Originally Posted by reuben

Garmin/Tacx make two sweatguards. I have the less expensive one.

https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/690903

https://www.garmin.com/en-US/p/690900

Cycleops and pretty much any other company that makes indoor trainers make them as well.

thanks definitely going to get one.

[reuben]

You can go to https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com and then drill down to your derailleur (or whatever) and check the charts for compatibility. This might be the applicable section, depending on the exact model.

https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/co...432&acid=C-435

What it won't tell you is if your chain is too long, which it appears to be.

[jadmt]

Originally Posted by reuben

You can go to https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com and then drill down to your derailleur (or whatever) and check the charts for compatibility. This might be the applicable section, depending on the exact model.

https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/co...432&acid=C-435

What it won't tell you is if your chain is too long, which it appears to be.

it is the deore m5100 rgs. It is the correct rear sprocket for my set up. I am asking because if it is too long I will fix it and not disagreeing by any means, but what other than looks what makes the chain too long? according to park tools a too long chain will fall off, be slack, have chain on chain rub and will not shift properly. Mine shifts really well both up and down and no chain slap or sag and the chain does not touch it self and has the proper bends going through the derailleur when on the lowest gear. it does not seem to be causing any extra drag via the un-scientific hand test ie spin the pedals by hand when shifting it up and down. Thanks and I appreciate the feed back.

[jadmt]

so I shortened the chain and shifting has gone to crap.

[jadmt]

Originally Posted by Peter P.

I agree; but I can't see the drive side to see what's going on.



If you're riding in the small cog in the back then the chain is too long, or you should not be using that gear and using an equivalent gear in the large ring.

Show us a video from the other side, and tell us what rear cog you're riding in.

Now for the critique:

Your saddle might be too high. It looks like your hips are rocking but hard to confirm with a side view. But listening to your oscillating tire scrub on the rollers as you pedal, that pulsing noise leads me to believe you might not be able to maintain a smooth cadence because of the possible too high saddle.

Glad you're riding rollers; they will expose bad pedaling habits, and teach good ones.

Saddle fore/aft is too hard for me to tell.

Your upper body position and reach to the bars looks good.

here are a couple other views ie from back and front. pumped the tires up, lowered the saddle a tinge. fire away
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCfQLXt9MwU

[reuben]

Originally Posted by jadmt

so I shortened the chain and shifting has gone to crap.

Well, that's not good. Based on your subsequent video I assume that you put it back the way it was - quick link, master link, whatever.

I'm surprised, because like Peter said, it looks like your chain is too long - rubbing on the top derailleur pulley in the first video, or very close to it. But we can't see the drive side, and don't know all of the details of your setup.

Kudos to you in any case. Rollers are hard! (I have a set of Tacx Galaxia). There's no real way to rest as there is with a stationary trainer. I have my rollers next to a post in the basement that I can grab on to if needed, and it also helps me mount and dismount. But it does force us to learn to pedal consistently and smoothly.