Growtac Mech Disc

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by weisan

Had a couple of rides in so far with the brakes set up optimally.

Here's the thing. I expect brakes to work just as is without jumping through hoops or paying a premium. The only reason brakes exist is to stop a moving thing. That's its sole purpose for existence. Even my lowly cheap unknown brand name medium reach rim brake fulfills its sole purpose in life, it stops on a dime. For me to have to fork out a fortune in order to get a mechanical disc brake to work just as well as a $30 rim brake is unacceptable, not mentioning having to contend with the particular issues of disc brakes.

So yeah, these expensive brakes work real well. At a premium.

Yet....you did...

[carlucci1106]

Originally Posted by weisan

... For me to have to fork out a fortune in order to get a mechanical disc brake to work just as well as a $30 rim brake is unacceptable, not mentioning having to contend with the particular issues of disc brakes.

So yeah, these expensive brakes work real well. At a premium.

I agree with this, but also see a positive upside. Up until these Growtacs hit the scene, Paul was making the only mech disc that stopped as well as a high-end dual pivot, and the price was astronomical, and still is--

But now that they have a competitor, I am seeing Klampers for cheaper.

Competition will only drive prices lower. I've tried BB7S (the nicest ones) and the Rever MTN1 on my Fatbike. Both are utter ****e, and neither one was "cheap." I wouldn't like to pay the extra dough for better performance, but inevitably will at some point.

Just installed the Equals on a Single Speeder for a friend, and I'm so happy I pushed him onto them. So satisfying compared to the other crap out there.

[NHAero]

I now have over 200 miles on two bikes that I converted to these brakes and I'm pretty happy I did. Just an update!

[krooj]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I now have over 200 miles on two bikes that I converted to these brakes and I'm pretty happy I did. Just an update!

This thread really has me thinking... I have a new DA9100 group earmarked for a SV that'll likely be delivered in the late fall, but I also have an Aethos frame kicking around... these Equal brakes would build up nicely with that DA 9100 in a mechanical disc road form.

0 to 10 - zero being BB7s and 10 being DA Hydro, how do these Equal brakes rank?

Also, what are the chances VO will give me that spring discount if I call and ask all nice like?

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by krooj

This thread really has me thinking... I have a new DA9100 group earmarked for a SV that'll likely be delivered in the late fall, but I also have an Aethos frame kicking around... these Equal brakes would build up nicely with that DA 9100 in a mechanical disc road form.

0 to 10 - zero being BB7s and 10 being DA Hydro, how do these Equal brakes rank?

Also, what are the chances VO will give me that spring discount if I call and ask all nice like?

On that 0-10 scale, stipulating that a BB7 is zero (I don't agree on MTB BB7s, road BB7s were clearly worse), I'd give them 8-1/2 to 9 vs my DA hydros. Still quite satisfied.

[krooj]

Originally Posted by NHAero

On that 0-10 scale, stipulating that a BB7 is zero (I don't agree on MTB BB7s, road BB7s were clearly worse), I'd give them 8-1/2 to 9 vs my DA hydros. Still quite satisfied.

That's solid. I'll give VO a call tomorrow...

[t1ncanfolklore]

My problem with the TRP Spyre is that they require alot of adjustment of the cable/pads from time to time to get them to work well. Wondering if this happens with equals?

[Greyfox]

And along the same lines as your question, how well do the pads stay centered? I hate the “ting, ting, ting” noise and would like to avoid it at all costs.

Thanks

[CAAD]

Originally Posted by t1ncanfolklore

My problem with the TRP Spyre is that they require alot of adjustment of the cable/pads from time to time to get them to work well. Wondering if this happens with equals?

Still have to adjust as the pads wear. Adjust the pads then adjust the caliper cable so to get the pull you are looking for.

Originally Posted by Greyfox

And along the same lines as your question, how well do the pads stay centered? I hate the “ting, ting, ting” noise and would like to avoid it at all costs.

Thanks

It's all about setup. You manually set your pads clearance to the rotor. With the barrel adjuster you can dial in the lever pull you want, essentially just opening the gap of the outboard pad. The inboard pad is fixed once you dial it in. But if your rotor is bent that whole other issue.

[krooj]

Ordered a set to try on the Aethos

[weisan]

Originally Posted by krooj

Ordered a set to try on the Aethos

So you asked nicely I presume....'

[Kirk007]

I have a set in waiting but haven’t found the energy to pick up another set of Axs rim shifters. Also have a set of axs hydro in the bin. Oh the path of least resistance or? I do like the Paul Klampers and the simplicity of mech discs on my travel bike. Maybe if I hem and haw long enough that Campy wireless will ride into the picture


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[rst72]

Originally Posted by krooj

Ordered a set to try on the Aethos

I am curious how compressionless housing will work with the aethos. The exit in the chainstay is close to the brake mount which doesn’t leave much for a natural bend…can’t bend like normal housing or hydro obviously.

[jpsawyer23]

Originally Posted by rst72

I am curious how compressionless housing will work with the aethos. The exit in the chainstay is close to the brake mount which doesn’t leave much for a natural bend…can’t bend like normal housing or hydro obviously.

One benefit of these over the Klampers is that the cable entrance is on the inboard side of the caliper rather than the outboard side so that the housing doesnt have to contort as much, especially on frames where the housing is routed on the inside of the chainstay.
On an Open Wide with Klampers I built up for a customer if you used compressionless housing the whole way, that bend from the inside of the chainstay where the housing exited to the cable stop on the outside of the brake resulted in the cable binding. To get around this I ended up using the jagwire elite link housing to route from inside the BB to the brake. Which worked well.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by jpsawyer23

One benefit of these over the Klampers is that the cable entrance is on the inboard side of the caliper rather than the outboard side so that the housing doesnt have to contort as much, especially on frames where the housing is routed on the inside of the chainstay.
On an Open Wide with Klampers I built up for a customer if you used compressionless housing the whole way, that bend from the inside of the chainstay where the housing exited to the cable stop on the outside of the brake resulted in the cable binding. To get around this I ended up using the jagwire elite link housing to route from inside the BB to the brake. Which worked well.

When I discovered after building up the Habanero with the Growtacs that turning the bars to the left too much pulled the rear cable due to the coupling between the housing that goes into the shifter and the mega-compressionless housing that goes to the caliper, I switched it all to a lower tier Jagwire housing. It works fine. After all, the rear brake does less work. On the Bingham, I used Jagwire Pro compressionless housing all the way front and rear and it works fine. I'd suggest just ignoring the complicated Growtac spliced housing approach and use a more conventional compressionless housing.