Steel bikes, cleaning and rust

[LouDeeter]

These pictures serve as an example of why owners of steel bikes should clean their bikes regularly. There is an old adage that clean paint doesn't rust. It's when you allow dirt to settle, get moist and seep into the fine cracks in the paint that you get rust. The rust on this bike is where the dirt usually is hard to remove with a simple wipe down. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VANNI-LOSA-....c100008.m2219

[unterhausen]

I rode a Viner for a very long time. It has rust problems. I always said the paint was made from the same coating as they use on chiclets gum

[ultraman6970]

True. Paint is thinner in the curves and tight corners like in the lugs.

Some say dont clean the chrome, you have to or the rust will start sticking like if it was tar in your teeth. So if you have a bike moving around not in use, just clean it twice a year and you should be be ok. Doesnt need to be a deep cleaning just a couple of butt cleaning wipes and all good.

Originally Posted by LouDeeter

These pictures serve as an example of why owners of steel bikes should clean their bikes regularly. There is an old adage that clean paint doesn't rust. It's when you allow dirt to settle, get moist and seep into the fine cracks in the paint that you get rust. The rust on this bike is where the dirt usually is hard to remove with a simple wipe down. https://www.ebay.com/itm/VANNI-LOSA-....c100008.m2219

[Columbus SLX]

Originally Posted by unterhausen

I rode a Viner for a very long time. It has rust problems. I always said the paint was made from the same coating as they use on chiclets gum

That Vanni's not a frameset, that's a frame.

[stackie]

OK. I was literally about to post a similar thread!

I’ve had a number of steel bikes over the years. From my first bike in 1988 on. I’ve also had carbon which I’ve liked but never resonated the way steel has.

I’ve lived in Michigan, South Carolina (only carbon bikes there- circumstance) and coastal California. Have been on steel in California. Serotta Atlanta to start. Zero issues x 5 years, sold after accident changed fit. Bought a xxxx early on painted by yyyyy. No issues x 5 years. Repainted by xxxx after accident with powder. Rust on all lug lines in 18 months. Repainted wet paint by xxxx with wet paint at no charge. Decent for 6 years. Minor rust at derailleur cable guides on head tube. Bought another xxxx after fit improved, rusted in 3 years. Undisclosed location rust, rust behind head badge, front derailleur tab, brake cable guides. Really didn’t understand the undisclosed rust or rust behind head badge. Repainted by xxxxx after some discussion including me asking for the graphics to have bike repainted by someone else. We came to very amicable resolution where xxxx replaced cable guides and derailleur tab with stainless steel and I paid a reduced amount for painting.

In no way do I want this to turn into any bashing. Which is why I’ve tried to keep any names or identifying features out of the post. I’m perfectly fine with the service from builder. **** happens. I live in a tough environment for steel, I think.

What I want to know is if I’m obligated to wash my bike every time I ride in coastal California. Is the salt air so harsh on paint that I can’t even ride it once and out away without washing? If I go out and roads are wet and bike is a mess, it gets washed. But if I go out for a one hour cruise on a sunny day along the coast... do I need to go full on wash cycle?

If so, what wash regimen do I do. I usually wash bike with no rinse wash and fine bristled paint brush to get into crevices. Wash mitt for big areas. Then drop bike a couple times to get water off. Spray entire bike with cleaner wax and polish dry.

I’ve been thinking to set up a cheap low pressure washer in garage to pull out and spray with foaming wash and soak after ride. Then wash with mitt and paint brush. Finish with spray wax and dry.

Any suggestions?

Don’t suggest Ti. I bought a Ti gravel and wet weather bike from an amazing Ti builder. It’s a great bike but after getting the steel bike back it’s just not the same balls to the wall race bike. Think Super Record 11 and enve wheels running 25mm tubulars vs eTap hydro disk on chinese carbon with 28mm tubulars. I don’t think it’s all frame. But they are completely different beasts. I still want to keep the steel bike and I’d rather not deal with paint issues.

Thanks for any tips or recs. Especially from people who live and ride in coastal areas. If you haven’t lived in these areas, you would have a hard time understanding . My garage door cabinet handles corrode in the garage! Yes the bikes live in the garage. And keeping them inside is not an option in a small house.

Jon

[Peter P.]

Just hose the bike off with water; that's what I do after sweaty rides. If getting the hose set up is inconvenient, get a pump sprayer, which is what I have. 2 gallon is plenty. Keep it filled. RL Flo-Master makes the better ones. I've got a cheapo from the big box hardware store and it's flimsy. The RL Flo-Master I previously had was much better.

The salt may have a stronger adhesion to the paint once it's dried. I've been tempted to skip the pump sprayer and use a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, and keep a brush inside. A quick brush off after a ride should be good enough.

It's the salt, in conjunction with the moisture, which causes the most problems.
I commuted to work year 'round including in the rain, and rust was not that much of a problem.

[LouDeeter]

I would suggest you wipe off the surface salt/dirt first with a rag (old sock or t-shirt) that has been sprayed with car spray finish wax. That way, when you hit it with water, you have diluted the "now salt water" that is running down your tubes. I live in Florida. I've lived in the Marshall Islands on an island that was 1/2 mile wide. I've seen what salt can do. In cases where you live in a salty environment, also make sure you have treated the inside of the tubes with something like FrameSaver or similar. Even non-salty dirt can cause rust when it accumulates in lug edges and gets wet. I don't deep clean my bike after every ride, but I do wipe it down. I get those edges a couple of times a month or if I think there is moisture from a ride.

I don't wash my steel bikes with a water sprayer. Too many air vent holes in the frame that will allow water to enter the tubes. At most, when using only water, it is just a wipe down, then dry. I prefer to use the spray wax on my cleaning cloth.

[weisan]

Having grew up 1/2 a mile from the beach, and in a place with high humidity, I can tell you maintaining a steel bike and keeping the rust at bay is a royal pain in the A. And I have babied the bike and given it royal treatment...still...what a hassle, not mentioning all the nuts and bolts or whatever that is made of steel in the components, they all get the same issue eventually. It's relentless and a losing battle.

If I have to live there again, I would opt for Ti and Carbon...in a heartbeat. And find a good home for all my steel bikes. Well, fortunately, there's not happening anything soon.

[soulspinner]

Couple exta layers of clear?

[mj_michigan]

In my experience, there is a huge difference between an (unheated) garage and a basement for bike storage. In the garage, there is constantly changing temperature and humidity resulting in water condensation even in places where water would not splash during a ride. Anyway, my bikes live in the basement now and have been completely clear of rust.

[paredown]

Originally Posted by mj_michigan

In my experience, there is a huge difference between an (unheated) garage and a basement for bike storage. In the garage, there is constantly changing temperature and humidity resulting in water condensation even in places where water would not splash during a ride. Anyway, my bikes live in the basement now and have been completely clear of rust.

I know that here in the NE/NY area, when we get the high humidity in the summer, stuff starts to rust--even inside the house--because of condensation and.or bad air flow.

In my garage turned workshop (where I'm pretty sure there was no plastic underneath the concrete when poured) I get crazy condensation on the tables of my tools and rusting when we get humid weather and temperature swings. Bikes live inside the house because of this.

I'm not compulsive about cleaning my bikes (not a drippy sweating guy usually)--but when setting up anything steel, I will Framesaver inside and also do a couple of coats of high quality car wax on the outside of the frame. It makes it easier to keep clean and (I like to think) helps keep the paint from oxidizing...

[stackie]

I live in Monterey,CA. So sweating not really an issue. 🤣🤣🤣. Seriously I hardly ever drip sweat on rides. For me, I think it is really just exposing the bike to humid salty air on rides near the ocean. And, in the garage. I don’t have a basement. Just a crawl space.

Temperature is quite stable. Temps range from mid 40s low in winter to highs in low 70s in summer. It’s really pretty ideal.

I hear you on the bolt thing. And brake springs. I got campy super record to get to bolts. Hells but the little flat plate that the brake cable bolt threads into is still steel and rusts like crazy. $60 for the bolt and plate. Can’t buy just the plate. I cleaned and painted. Have to replace the brake springs every couple years too.

In my discussion with Toby Stanton of hot tubes he said more clear doesn’t help. It’s in the prep and primer. That said I did have a friend who does car detail out a couple coats of ceramic coating on. Cost almost nothing.

But it sounds like no one saying that the bikes need to be washed after every ride. I keep to weekly.

Thanks

Jon

[rePhil]

The bad news is there is nothing you can do to completely stop it. I worked for a company that was located in SW FL because it was one of the worst environments for corrosion and rust in the U.S. You can slow down the effects, but you will never totally stop them.

Originally Posted by stackie

I live in Monterey,CA. So sweating not really an issue. 🤣🤣🤣. Seriously I hardly ever drip sweat on rides. For me, I think it is really just exposing the bike to humid salty air on rides near the ocean. And, in the garage. I don’t have a basement. Just a crawl space.

Temperature is quite stable. Temps range from mid 40s low in winter to highs in low 70s in summer. It’s really pretty ideal.

I hear you on the bolt thing. And brake springs. I got campy super record to get to bolts. Hells but the little flat plate that the brake cable bolt threads into is still steel and rusts like crazy. $60 for the bolt and plate. Can’t buy just the plate. I cleaned and painted. Have to replace the brake springs every couple years too.

In my discussion with Toby Stanton of hot tubes he said more clear doesn’t help. It’s in the prep and primer. That said I did have a friend who does car detail out a couple coats of ceramic coating on. Cost almost nothing.

But it sounds like no one saying that the bikes need to be washed after every ride. I keep to weekly.

Thanks

Jon