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#1
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wheel in freezer, tire in oven.
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#2
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__________________
chasing waddy |
#3
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ride Michelins
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#4
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The last time I helped with a flat out on the road, trying to get the first bead on, the whole tire kept falling off the rim. The first bead on a 4000s' snaps* in the Neutrons to where you can forget about adjusting your labels even just a smidge.
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#5
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it's likely you had a very forgiving rim prior to this. conti's are tight across the line. with virtually every other brand of tire, bare hands is fine, but conti's are way easier with a tire lever. in my mechanic days i couldn't even mount new ones without a lever.
at least you don't have a campy rim. those things are outta control... |
#6
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As has been discussed to death on most forums,
the difficulty of installing a tire is determined by the combination of the tolerances between both the rim bed and the tire bead. Given that you may already own a wheelset that has difficulty mounting, keep in mind: Conti tires are among the tightest. Vittoria tires are loose, stretch a lot after 1 install. Thin rim strips are key - forget about velox tape, it's way too thick, which makes the inner diameter of the rim bed larger, making the tire harder to install. -g |
#7
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Pretty much every topic has been discussed to death but we still come back and discuss it some more.
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#8
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What's your favorite way to glue tubulars?
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#9
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I love Conti GP 4000S tires...I sold a set of DT wheels cuz they were impossible to mount...they don't play together well. Either sell the wheelset or try a different tire...seriously!!!
__________________
Livin’ the dream ( just like Mike ) |
#10
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I'd try Michelin PR4 (or PR3 if you can find some leftovers cheap) - It's not as if there's a massive difference between that and the Conti. I've ridden both the Conti GP 4000's and PR3's quite a bit and there are some ride differences, but not enough that they would prevent me from trying the Michelins on that wheel.
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#11
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I always damage the tube when I try to use tire levers.
I swab a little soapy water on the inside of the last bit of the bead with a kitchen sponge. Not enough to get the outside of the bead wet -- so my thumbs still have grip -- just enough to lubricate the bead. Works every time. When changing a flat out on the road the tire has stretched out enough that it can be removed and replaced very easily. |
#12
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pedros levers
wet the rim with water or when screwed wet the rim with pledge/pedros bike lust etc.. how much are is not snapping over - 3 - inches ? my vittoria's fit like loose jeans on open pro
__________________
ui\ Last edited by AgilisMerlin; 03-24-2013 at 07:05 PM. |
#13
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Out of laziness I just put Velox on the Neutrons and 465s. The increased effort is noticeable, but not a deal breaker. I tightened up my technique and use Lezyne levers which are short, narrow, and *thin* with a *flat* back. Its thinness is the key--that and the small and well shaped tips.
They make Pedros levers look like something from the Flintstones, although Pedros do have well designed tips. Lezyne levers are not burly--they don't have to be if you hold the lever right. With that set up I switch tubes on the road standing up with one end of the wheel resting on my knees. Last edited by bluesea; 03-24-2013 at 08:55 PM. |
#14
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i take that as a compliment levers and all
__________________
ui\ |
#15
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^ It is! Pedros are the best levers for most tire/rim combos.
When I was having issues with my first Neutrons, and went to the LBS to pick up some Pedros, looking at them it was obvious they weren't the right tool for the job. Bigger levers increase tension as they work. Smaller levers decrease tension. Lezynes are the new Pedros for these situations. Last edited by bluesea; 03-24-2013 at 09:06 PM. |
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