Tubeless sealant top-up frequency?

[ripvanrando]

When I did TABR race, RH 38mm width tires lost all sealant in under a week or something like 1,000 miles but those have porous sidewalls.

In this specific example with 30mm (33mm actual width) GP5000 S TR, it was about 2200-2500 miles over 8 weeks and quite a lot with hot pavement (I would not be surprised if the sealant were not 120-130F) all day long and also one ride of 400km with brutally bumpy roads where maybe the tire burped. I cannot recall having to add air. Usually when I get a small puncture, I hear, "Psst" and then it stops. Tire PSI will drop from say 55 psi down to 20-30 psi and I would expect to have lost sealant. I'm going to check the front tire, if it has tons of sealant, then, I probably had some punctures on the rear tire over the 8 week period of time and was not aware of it. In my mind, I was thinking hot pavement, bumpy roads, and lots of miles might have been the culprit. In any case, lesson learned. Zip tie as a dipstick will be my checking tool.

[herb5998]

Some manufacturers have recommended top up/dry intervals, but every 8-12 weeks is a good window


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ripvanrando]

I checked the front tire sealant level with a ziptie and it was also dry. The tire has zero cuts or any indication of damage and I have never found it abnormally low on tire pressure. The Propylene Glycol and Water completely evaporated leaving behind only the latex. I'll leave the chemistry to the chemists but I doubt sealant Mfgs have done any real stability testing to support the often read interval of 3-7 months to replenish or top up. Six months in a garage isn't the same as six weeks and 2000+ miles on hot pavement.

I added 50 ml of sealant and will check the level in 3 weeks.

YMMV.

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by Jaybee

There's no need to break the bead to check sealant levels. you can just shake the wheel. If you hear sealant, you're probably good. If not, add 20ml. Or, if you want to be more precise about it, you can pull the valve core and use a dipstick.

The initial setup of a tire usually soaks up more sealant faster than subsequent top-offs. After all the little micropores in the casing are full, they won't take up as much sealant.

That generally requires removing the wheel from the bike. Given the issue road bike people have with disc brakes, this could lead to more problems!

[Dave]

I use a dip stick and orange seal endurance that seems to last fairly long.

[CAAD]

Shake the wheel test for me. If I have a race or big ride the following day ill throw in an ounce for good measure. I only use Orange Seal Endurance, it has the best longevity out of all the sealants I have used.

[Flinch]

As an aside...
I use syringes with a catheter tip (NOT the 'loc' tips!), to replenish sealant. This requires a removable valve core, and keeps me from having to break the bead. The syringes I use have the tip offset to the side of the tube end, such that it fits easier between spokes. Dirt cheap on ebay.

I'd advise not getting one larger than 60 ml, and I use a 30 ml size - too large and it's hard to fit between spokes. Tip: keep the valve a couple inches up to one side of being on the bottom - that allows space for the sealant to drain to the bottom, else you overflow and ugh.

Here's a pic of the style, but not the size

[CAAD]

I like the Bontrager injector. Once you remove the valve the Bontrager tip threads into the valve, So easy and clean. No more hose to pop off and make a mess. Only $12 bucks at a local Trek store.

[NHAero]

Originally Posted by CAAD

I like the Bontrager injector. Once you remove the valve the Bontrager tip threads into the valve, So easy and clean. No more hose to pop off and make a mess. Only $12 bucks at a local Trek store.

What's nice about the KOM and similar tools with the skinny tube is that you bypass the valve threading entirely which I have found makes it easier to get the core out the next time. Maybe the bontrager does a similar job?

[tellyho]

Originally Posted by Flinch

As an aside...
I use syringes with a catheter tip (NOT the 'loc' tips!), to replenish sealant. This requires a removable valve core, and keeps me from having to break the bead. The syringes I use have the tip offset to the side of the tube end, such that it fits easier between spokes. Dirt cheap on ebay.

I'd advise not getting one larger than 60 ml, and I use a 30 ml size - too large and it's hard to fit between spokes. Tip: keep the valve a couple inches up to one side of being on the bottom - that allows space for the sealant to drain to the bottom, else you overflow and ugh.

Here's a pic of the style, but not the size

+1 for syringe. I just got a sealant syringe from ebay. Pro tip: rinse out the syringe after you use it. Ask me how I know...

[tuxbailey]

I have not refreshed my mountain bike tires in 3 years.

Should I be worried?

I do carry a tube and valve stem tool with me on my rides, so I got that going with me.

[KonaSS]

Originally Posted by tuxbailey

I have not refreshed my mountain bike tires in 3 years.

Should I be worried?

I do carry a tube and valve stem tool with me on my rides, so I got that going with me.

Yes, it is very very likely that it has dried up. So will not seal a cut or puncture. Just add some more and ride on.

[benb]

Originally Posted by NHAero

What's nice about the KOM and similar tools with the skinny tube is that you bypass the valve threading entirely which I have found makes it easier to get the core out the next time. Maybe the bontrager does a similar job?

The Bontrager threads on. They're super easy to get, as said every Trek dealer usually has them in stock all the time.

The issue I often have with it, at least with Stan's is that the tube will pop right off the syringe if there is any back pressure. The Bontrager sealant is lower viscosity than Stans, maybe they were designed together, but I could have sworn I've had the injector since long before Trek came up with their own sealant.

The tube threads into the valve core, but the syringe is exactly like the one Flinch shared a picture of. So basically the tube just press fits onto the syringe, and it loves to pop off and spray all over the place.

It requires some finesse.. just not enough that I have bought a different one to try and find something better.

It is a heck of a lot better than hydraulic brakes with bleed fittings that just expect you to press a hose onto something without a good seal, at least there is that.

This is actually the kind of thing I would expect Park Tool to hit out of the park. I just got one of their bleed kits, I haven't used it yet but will this weekend, but their Syringes are ridiculously nice compared to other stuff I've seen in tool kits. The build quality is very very nice compared to the brand specific kit I have had for ~10 years.

Looks like theirs is super nice, not need to thread it into the valve core and it's never going to pop off:

https://www.parktool.com/en-us/produ...=Tube+%26+Tire

[tuxbailey]

Originally Posted by KonaSS

Yes, it is very very likely that it has dried up. So will not seal a cut or puncture. Just add some more and ride on.

That sounds easy. I am just too lazy to remove the tire to clean to old dried up sealant. Wouldn't there be too much dried up old sealant over time? But I guess the tire's life would have worn down way before that.

[makoti]

Originally Posted by Flinch

As an aside...
I use syringes with a catheter tip (NOT the 'loc' tips!), to replenish sealant. This requires a removable valve core, and keeps me from having to break the bead. The syringes I use have the tip offset to the side of the tube end, such that it fits easier between spokes. Dirt cheap on ebay.

I'd advise not getting one larger than 60 ml, and I use a 30 ml size - too large and it's hard to fit between spokes. Tip: keep the valve a couple inches up to one side of being on the bottom - that allows space for the sealant to drain to the bottom, else you overflow and ugh.

Here's a pic of the style, but not the size

2oz squeeze bottles do the same thing. I use a Stan's that I got when I used that.