Allen Key Campy 8 speed crank?

[tuscanyswe]

Trying to remove an older record crank. I dont have the correct allen key even tho i must have removed several of these cranks before. Is it a 7mm i need (i guess) since 6 to small and 8 to big!

Weird dont think i ever had a 7 :/

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by tuscanyswe

Trying to remove an older record crank. I dont have the correct allen key even tho i must have removed several of these cranks before. Is it a 7mm i need (i guess) since 6 to small and 8 to big!

Weird dont think i ever had a 7 :/

Yes, 7mm and self extractor..recommend using a wee pin tool and take those off when you get the cranks off...the extractors are both LEFT THREADED into the crank arm(the crank bolt itself is lefty loosey)...

If the 7mm allen bolt flats get wallowed, striped, you will play hell getting the cranks off...unfortunately, you would also need a LH threaded Campagnolo crank puller too...easy to find, but not cheap. I have one FS, BTW-$70.

BUT if you end up using these, take them off, lube the threads and reinstall.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by tuscanyswe

Trying to remove an older record crank. I dont have the correct allen key even tho i must have removed several of these cranks before. Is it a 7mm i need (i guess) since 6 to small and 8 to big!

Weird dont think i ever had a 7 :/

Yes, Campagnolo used a 7 mm allen key for self-extracting bolts in the C-Record era (late '80s to early '90s).

Also be aware that the self-extractor cover in some of these cranks was reverse threaded. If you remove the cover and lose it, you'll need a special reverse threaded crank puller to remove the crank (these have gotten hard to find).

[tuscanyswe]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Yes, 7mm and self extractor..recommend using a wee pin tool and take those off when you get the cranks off...the extractors are both LEFT THREADED into the crank arm(the crank bolt itself is lefty loosey)...

If the 7mm allen bolt flats get wallowed, striped, you will play hell getting the cranks off...unfortunately, you would also need a LH threaded Campagnolo crank puller too...easy to find, but not cheap. I have one FS, BTW-$70.

BUT if you end up using these, take them off, lube the threads and reinstall.

Thanks Peter.

I always think i have most tools to work with campy but theres always more.. .)

[pjbaz]

Originally Posted by tuscanyswe

Thanks Peter.

I always think i have most tools to work with campy but theres always more.. .)

And THIS is another reason I'm getting to the point of ditching Campy and just keeping my life simple with Shimano.

One ruined crank arm has now been months of hell and expense trying to keep my Campy ride rolling. Just amazing. Doubles with different spindle lengths, fd's that don't seem to have fine adjustment and shifter throws that are comically wide ... and I've redone the cable and tension already LOL

[tuscanyswe]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

And THIS is another reason I'm getting to the point of ditching Campy and just keeping my life simple with Shimano.

One ruined crank arm has now been months of hell and expense trying to keep my Campy ride rolling. Just amazing. Doubles with different spindle lengths, fd's that don't seem to have fine adjustment and shifter throws that are comically wide ... and I've redone the cable and tension already LOL

Thats not going to happen to me tho. I love my campy. I just also like to complain every now and then

Thanks all!

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

And THIS is another reason I'm getting to the point of ditching Campy and just keeping my life simple with Shimano.

One ruined crank arm has now been months of hell and expense trying to keep my Campy ride rolling. Just amazing. Doubles with different spindle lengths, fd's that don't seem to have fine adjustment and shifter throws that are comically wide ... and I've redone the cable and tension already LOL

Which crank arm? I have a few spares. Spindle lengths? shimano of that era did too...modern, no issues(all external bearing)..shifter throws, personal choice, use the lever your hand likes the most.

Trying to keep 80/90s Campag stuff 'going', 8s, is really no easier than 80/90s shimano 8s stuff.

[pjbaz]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Which crank arm? I have a few spares. Spindle lengths? shimano of that era did too...modern, no issues(all external bearing)..shifter throws, personal choice, use the lever your hand likes the most.

Trying to keep 80/90s Campag stuff 'going', 8s, is really no easier than 80/90s shimano 8s stuff.

Newish stuff, 10 speed - I destroyed a Centaur cf non-drive arm when the pedal fused to the insert ... the insert came out of the arm upon attempted pedal removal. I was able to save the pedal with a dremel and a deft touch lol

After that fiasco I picked up an alloy Record crank but the chainline was a disaster so I chased down the "correct" length spindle. I bought a full bb and that doesn't fit into the shell in a way I like - too many threads exposed as it screws in a wicked distance. I removed, checked my work and it did it again ... idk, never seen that happen before. However, it does spin and that seems to have fixed my chainline issue

Last night I was adjusting the cables and fd and it's just not going as easily as it should. Going from small to big ring I have to push the lever so damn far it's not even funny.

It could be that I'm a sucky mechanic, but in the 15 or so years of serious riding I've never once needed anyone's help for such simple issues, or almost any other issue, actually. It could also be that I have a full 6800 grouppo in a box and I'm kinda itching to install it on something haha.

[Spaghetti Legs]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Yes, 7mm and self extractor..recommend using a wee pin tool and take those off when you get the cranks off...the extractors are both LEFT THREADED into the crank arm(the crank bolt itself is lefty loosey)...

If the 7mm allen bolt flats get wallowed, striped, you will play hell getting the cranks off...unfortunately, you would also need a LH threaded Campagnolo crank puller too...easy to find, but not cheap. I have one FS, BTW-$70.

BUT if you end up using these, take them off, lube the threads and reinstall.

I will respectfully disagree regarding removal and ditching, recognizing however, that Oldpotatoe has likely worked with more of these than I have. A 7 mm socket costs $4 or $5 at Home Depot and if you use it right, you shouldn’t strip the bolt. Removing a properly functioning self extractor requires time and expense to create yet another problem (find a left hand crank extractor).

BTW I am a Campy fan generally but especially the 8 speed. They really hit their stride with this line after some hiccups in the C Record 6 and 7 speed era.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

Newish stuff, 10 speed - I destroyed a Centaur cf non-drive arm when the pedal fused to the insert ... the insert came out of the arm upon attempted pedal removal. I was able to save the pedal with a dremel and a deft touch lol

After that fiasco I picked up an alloy Record crank but the chainline was a disaster so I chased down the "correct" length spindle. I bought a full bb and that doesn't fit into the shell in a way I like - too many threads exposed as it screws in a wicked distance. I removed, checked my work and it did it again ... idk, never seen that happen before. However, it does spin and that seems to have fixed my chainline issue

Last night I was adjusting the cables and fd and it's just not going as easily as it should. Going from small to big ring I have to push the lever so damn far it's not even funny.

It could be that I'm a sucky mechanic, but in the 15 or so years of serious riding I've never once needed anyone's help for such simple issues, or almost any other issue, actually. It could also be that I have a full 6800 grouppo in a box and I'm kinda itching to install it on something haha.

Yup, Centaur and below-111mm, Record/Chorus-102mm

Maybe have the BB threads chaced and have it faced at the same time..by a decent LBS..makes BBs last longer.

LH lever is ratcheting friction BUT if fder adjusted, it 'should' take chain from small to big in 3 clicks. Chain really close to inner cage, cable TIGHT...sometimes with the uber adjustable LH shifter(you can use any fder, even a non Campag one)...a few clicks, then center, then push again for the fder.

Do some study on the 6800 fder setup..one of the more complicated fders out there(along with 9000 and 5800)...

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Spaghetti Legs

I will respectfully disagree regarding removal and ditching, recognizing however, that Oldpotatoe has likely worked with more of these than I have. A 7 mm socket costs $4 or $5 at Home Depot and if you use it right, you shouldn’t strip the bolt. Removing a properly functioning self extractor requires time and expense to create yet another problem (find a left hand crank extractor).

BTW I am a Campy fan generally but especially the 8 speed. They really hit their stride with this line after some hiccups in the C Record 6 and 7 speed era.

I have had C Record for a while, a few CDA but in the shop, have seen more than a few boogered up, so the only way to get the crank off was to remove the assembly a little at a time. Yup, if 'fresh' and lubed, the self extractor worked very well..BUT I took mine off and replaced with 15mm crank bolt(Campag one, of course)..and I have a couple of LH extractors.

[pjbaz]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Maybe have the BB threads chaced and have it faced at the same time..by a decent LBS..makes BBs last longer.

LH lever is ratcheting friction BUT if fder adjusted, it 'should' take chain from small to big in 3 clicks. Chain really close to inner cage, cable TIGHT...sometimes with the uber adjustable LH shifter(you can use any fder, even a non Campag one)...a few clicks, then center, then push again for the fder.

OKAY, I'm going to go with I didn't explain the fist bit well enough, and I'm a straight dope with regard to the bolded section

The BB issue first: The threads are all smooth, but the non-drive side piece threads well into the shell, leaving a few threads of the shell visible. The "cup" if you will is inset of the shell ... not sure if that's normal but I've never seen it before.

The BOLDED section: straight my error if you're telling me the three clicks are correct! I like the trim feature of the fd but didn't realize it wasn't supposed to swing up in one motion like all my Shimano stuff does. Well, it does make it but I have to push wicked far and that's why I've been so annoyed lol. I'm going to try it again with a new attitude and see if I like it. Thanks!

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

OKAY, I'm going to go with I didn't explain the fist bit well enough, and I'm a straight dope with regard to the bolded section

The BB issue first: The threads are all smooth, but the non-drive side piece threads well into the shell, leaving a few threads of the shell visible. The "cup" if you will is inset of the shell ... not sure if that's normal but I've never seen it before.

The BOLDED section: straight my error if you're telling me the three clicks are correct! I like the trim feature of the fd but didn't realize it wasn't supposed to swing up in one motion like all my Shimano stuff does. Well, it does make it but I have to push wicked far and that's why I've been so annoyed lol. I'm going to try it again with a new attitude and see if I like it. Thanks!

Put the RH cup in first, tight, the 'lip' against the shell and then put the LH cup in..

I get that but sometimes 2 or 3 short shifts, movements(clicks) and then it'll shift. Not like the shimano or even sram 'sweep', not positional like theirs are and Campagnolo not tied to their own front der(well, sorta, any sram, road 10s system would benefit from a shimano 10s front der(and cogsets..and chain...)

[pjbaz]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Put the RH cup in first, tight, the 'lip' against the shell and then put the LH cup in..

Oh, I did that, twice, and got the same result. The non-drive "cup" is inset of the shell once tightened. Like I said, the crank works fine so imma go with it for a bit and see what happens lol

Thanks,
J

[oliver1850]

Originally Posted by pjbaz

Oh, I did that, twice, and got the same result. The non-drive "cup" is inset of the shell once tightened. Like I said, the crank works fine so imma go with it for a bit and see what happens lol

Thanks,
J

If I'm getting your story straight, you have a 102 mm cartridge BB which would make it Chorus, Record, or one of the replacements such as Token. All of these are made with a ledge on the drive side cup which locates the BB laterally (same as Shimano square taper BBs by the way). Where the left side cup comes out is determined by the rest of the BB and the width of the shell. I measure an English threaded Campagnolo bottom bracket at 68.4 mm from ledge of right cup to end of threads on non drive cup. So with the intended 68 mm shell width there would normally be a bit of thread exposed when the left cup is tight. If your left cup is seating inside the shell, the shell must be wider than spec, assuming your BB is intact. This isn't a huge problem if the extra shell width is on the left side. If it's on the right it could affect chain line. It could cause a removal problem if the exposed threads corrode.