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  #16  
Old 12-08-2017, 07:59 AM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
Hey, thanks... Havent started disassembling it but did a test run using aluminum foil and some kroll oil in the handlebars and the thing cleaned really well... I was thinking in buying some O-acid but looks like the old aluminum foil and then a nice cleaning will do the work in the rust.

Now im trying to figure it out how to remove the rubber grips off the handlebars, they look really stuck in there after 40 years....

The rims are steel just in case, need to check the measurements but looks like this things are 27"... I'm tempted to swap the rims to make it easy to clean and service the hubs.. have to check if anybody is still making 27" rims tho.
Compressed air...use alcohol to get back on then 'dry' with compressed air..stick really well. If ya try to pry these up, may split.

Velocity for one...

Lower right corner

http://www.velocityusa.com/product/rims#sizes-tab
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  #17  
Old 12-08-2017, 12:15 PM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Great tricks thanks, will try them tonite...

What i noticed is that the brakes are long reach, but after putting a tubular rim next to the wheels I believe you are right, those wheels must be 26....



Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkshogun View Post
screw driver under grip and spray either water or if really stuck wd40 to loosen grip

most likely 26 x 1 3/8 (590 ETRTO) size tires if the sidewalls are so degraded that you cant read them anymore
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  #18  
Old 12-08-2017, 05:58 PM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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OK, the bicycle pretty much 95% disassembled, hope i remember how to put it together tho...

The gearing is a shimano pps 3 speed system, no idea the hub because i have to check.

Thought I was going to have a hard time with the pedals but they came out really easy, same the bb and headset.

Still needs to remove the headset cups just to get them nice and shiny, need to find my tool for it.

Now, there is like a plastic clamp and since I cant open it I cant remove the shifter casing out of the frame to be able to clean the frame. Anybody remember this things? Clearly is like a two pieces clamp but doesnt seem to open and I really dont want to end up using zip ties.

Check out the tires and barely could make 26 x 1 3/8 (590 ETRTO) so, pinkshogun is right.
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  #19  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:26 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Little update, cleaning went faster than I thought, actually I have the metal parts cleaned but the wheels and started to assembly it back up.

Need to post some pictures of before and after for some of the parts but if somebody wants and advance just send me an email and I'll send you pictures.

The brake calipers and levers, crankset and handlebars turned out pretty nice.

Regarding the casing and the cabling, the 3speed hub shift lever uses like a super thin rod, is not a cable, IMO is too stiff to be called a cable, anybody knows if that can be replaced by a cable?

THe other thing I was thinking in getting replaced was the cable casing but I cant find a single one the same color eventhought I found it in black (I believe the male bike came with black) I'm not sure if i can use like white modern casing in the bike because of the diameter of the cables maybe? anybody has an insight about this?

Cleaning the wheels tonite, that will be fun.

Checking out the brake pads they look like the original ones, the rubber is compact and barely used but had as a piece of wood, Have to hunt for new ones.

If anybody needs a pictures drop me an email...
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:29 AM
Cicli Cicli is offline
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I dont think you can replace the wire with a cable. Some three speed hubs needed to be pushed as well as pulled to shift right. A cable will pull but thats it. They dont push well.
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  #21  
Old 12-10-2017, 11:42 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Thanks, I think you are right, the mechanism piece (no idea of its name) that push - pull the pin is really hard to move by hand, that explains the wire (that's the right word, thanks).

It is possible to change the pin push/puller mechanism for another one that uses as spring type one (those are the ones I know) ??? It will work?
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2017, 05:59 PM
Ken Robb Ken Robb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultraman6970 View Post
Thanks, I think you are right, the mechanism piece (no idea of its name) that push - pull the pin is really hard to move by hand, that explains the wire (that's the right word, thanks).

It is possible to change the pin push/puller mechanism for another one that uses as spring type one (those are the ones I know) ??? It will work?
I don't think a 3 speed hub like this is supposed to be shifted unless the wheel is turning.
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2017, 07:28 PM
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pinkshogun pinkshogun is offline
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this is a complete Shimano 3 speed replacement cable, housing, and keepers. Sturmey-Archer 3 speeds do not have that type of ball end attachment shown

https://www.ebay.com/p/Sunlite-Three...d=371467228280

Last edited by pinkshogun; 12-10-2017 at 07:30 PM.
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2017, 07:44 PM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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THanks for the link but regular cable wont work, it uses a thick wire, pretty much no springs or tension, just brute force

Either way I have the Shifter cable and the bell assembled, will start with the wheels tomorrow, and meanwhile started scouting for tan side walls tires. The white like schwalbes are at good price.
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  #25  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:58 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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All the metal parts looked like this... and look like this now...
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  #26  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:59 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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...
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  #27  
Old 12-16-2017, 09:00 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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and the magic....
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File Type: jpg IMG_20171216_092524.jpg (43.5 KB, 87 views)
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  #28  
Old 12-24-2017, 01:14 AM
ultraman6970 ultraman6970 is offline
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Ok, not that much to update but kind'a cold set the fork to 100, just to be able to use the darn dishing tool, the hubs are like 70 mm, too narrow to use it and since im waiting for new rims and tires decided just go 100 mm.

The other reason is that these forks are so cheaply made that you never know if the thing is straight, well wont know till I have the wheels done to know if the bike is pulling to the sides or not, one thing for sure, the wheel is not at the center at all, the cold setting worked, used the bolt and nuts system mixed with pull the heck out of it combined with a laser level.

I get it really close, the centerline is just there the problem is that the wheel is still off at the top, measured the fork stays and the suckers arent equal, are like 3 mm off between them. Looks like the next step is a file.

Need to check out the frame but looks like is ok. W/o riding it is hard to tell.
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