#16
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I'd love to start with the Cinelli Nemo Tig that for sale in the Classifieds and build a go-fast machine.
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#17
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How about this...
Caad 10 or 12 rim brake frame Ultegra Hollowgram cranks Zondas with 25c gp5000 Carbon post bars stem 36/52 and 11-32 You said you wanted to go fast right? Don’t sabotage yourself with a heavy or flexy frame imo. |
#18
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Go-fast group ride metal bike on crappy roads with lot of up means: steel frame with bigger stays, rim brake, 52/36 in front and up to 28-30 in the back, and very light carbon wheels with 25mm tires max, probably tubular.
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#19
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That’s where gearing on a race bike becomes interesting. I suffer on the steeper climbs, but on the “false flats” my build is much more conducive to mashing the pedals.
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#20
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My current "go fast" metal bike:
1) Steel, columbus spirit 2) 28 mm tires 3) 50/34, 11-28 gearing 4) rim brake If I were going to design a new one, I'd probably go with: 1) titanium 2) 28 mm tires 3) probably still 50/34, 11-28 gearing, but maybe a 52/36, 11-32 4) rim brake
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Instagram - DannAdore Bicycles |
#21
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A) Something Titanium
B) 30c C) 50/34 in front and a 12-34 in back D) discs
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Contains Titanium |
#22
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Unless you're drafting trucks at 60 mph, a 50 x 9 is completely unusable. Same for a 50 x 10.
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It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that certain je ne sais quoi. --Peter Schickele |
#23
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I keep up on fast group rides with my 1985 Colnago. So I'd say there are gazillion bikes really.
So I can honestly say the go fast part of the equation is an easy part, as it is mostly up to your physiology really. The fun starts, you can pretty much steer your purchase/build lust into baller territory and mean looks. But a truly 'go fast' capable machine may wait for you to have the chutzbah to actually use it to it's potential. Buying used even better, as rim brake road go fast machines are deal city out there with ALL Road and Gravel taking market share currently. I have a great All Road Strong Custom, and a 650b Lynskey Gravel Mongrel. Fast group ride, 1985 Colnago SLX pulled from the quiver. 11s Chorus resto-mod and 404s, granted. But IMO, until you are fit enough to ride with 9CM+ of drop and setback a superdiduper go fast machine probably is not going to be a pleasant experience to roll for long. So careful what you wish for. >>I guess I am less clear on the line of demarcation for go fast road and just how much bumpy cruddy blasting desired to cover. That could sway direction an awful lot in itself.
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This foot tastes terrible! Last edited by robt57; 06-22-2020 at 10:53 AM. |
#24
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Here's mine. It has 32mm tires in the pic. It will fit up to 35mm. I prefer medium-reach brakes (I rarely ride in wet, muddy conditions). The crankset is a Praxis 48/32 with a 11-30 in the back. The frame itself has conventional road geometry. It's a great all-rounder.
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#25
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If fast is the main goal:
Allez sprint Ee brakes 25mm tires 53/39 11-29 Record 12 (52/36 if really hilly) Realistically, this is fast enough (but I’m not) 32mm tires (will probably drop down to 30 next time) 52/36 11-29 (second wheelset with 11-34) Last edited by thirdgenbird; 06-22-2020 at 11:17 AM. |
#26
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Quote:
A go fast bike should be aluminium. I would ride 700x25 tires. Edit: i didn´t even think about the brakes. |
#27
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Up to 30c, rim brakes, metal of choice, compact road gearing with a tight 12-25ish cassette, lots of core work.
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#28
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If you are trained you can go with those guys in a 70's mixte and the guys wont drop you. In the opposite side, if you arent trained at all no matter if you have a bike made of air, the guys will drop you. So just out of the bat you have to weight in that situation. Personally have fast bikes, but i do not train so riders drop me or have to wait for me
As for the request, now a days you can get a high end EM for 500 bucks for the frame, put any group in it and pick your choice of 23 - 27 mm tires. Many times no matter the tubing, just go with something that by default will go fast, like EM's and De rosas for example. Last edited by ultraman6970; 06-22-2020 at 11:13 AM. |
#29
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Quote:
Second, learn how to ride efficiently in a group - maybe that's first - so many Wattz get lost with inefficient riding. This is everything from sag climbing, to reading when things will string out and bunch up, how to stay in a wheel when it matters, etc. Third, matching the compliance and handling of your tires, wheels, and frame to the terrain and surfaces you ride most frequently. If you have smooth pavement, no climbs and no wind, that's a different equation to solve than chip-seal, lots of climbs and lots of side-winds. If you have mix, you'll have to accept some tradeoffs, and probably land in the middle. Fourth, look at aero gains from your clothing, helmet, shoes - and then wheels, handlebars, and frame. Fifth, decide how much the marginal gains are worth to you relative to the dollar investment. My choice? An oversized steel frameset with a good fork, long stem, shorter TT, low front end, 25c tires, wider rims, mix of wheels for windy/calm or dry/wet days, tight kit, and tight gear range with a bailout for the inevitable (36/52 and 11/29). |
#30
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Yes, if you're trying to keep up with a fast group that gearing is totally absurd. You want a tight cassette, with one-tooth jumps between cogs. And if you think that you need a 50 x 9 or 50 x 10, you need to learn how to spin, not mash.
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It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that certain je ne sais quoi. --Peter Schickele |
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