#16
|
|||
|
|||
Sometimes that intermittent click on a singlespeed drivetrain points to an issue with chain tension. Is your chain really tight?
|
#17
|
|||
|
|||
I recently built up an old frame into a single speed. Sram does make a dedicated single speed chain but they are out of stock. Ended up finding a KMC chain, inexpensive and different colors to boot.
Ended up getting a ticking noise as well mostly when standing and grinding up a hill. Square taper bb cups needed to be snugged up a bit and everything is fine. |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
It wasn’t especially tight, but I backed it off slightly and rode into work today. Same issue. I’ve sent images and details to WI, including photos of the back of the chainring (which exhibits practically no wear at all) and the chain line. I’m interested to hear their views.
|
#19
|
||||
|
||||
FWIW I had a negative experience with WI and my VBC crank. Honestly the rings shifted like crap and I had constant chain drops. So much for MiUSA CS.
|
#20
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
That said, re: the chain- I'd reach out to WI and see what they have to say, obviously your experience is not normal. |
#21
|
|||
|
|||
Those conex chains are magical on singlespeeds. You might be able to source one on Ebay. I have personally run into the same problem - switching to a SRAM chain and feeling like I lost a ton of watts on my SS.
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
However, it seems there's a fly in the ointment here, and WI have now gotten back to me. The back of the chainring shows very little wear, indicating that my chainline is off. WI have suggested inserting a 0.5-1.0mm spacer behind the freewheel to space it out somewhat. I had a 2.0mm spacer to hand, tried that and it put the face of the freewheel out past the locknut, so there's only 1mm to play with there at the most. Luckily BSA BB spacers fit the bill, but so far I can only find 0.7 and 1.0mm versions via Wheels Mfg who sell through BicyclePartsDirect. Guess that's the next experiment. |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
Hmmm, once again, that's not going to be the whole story. Chainline may be off, let's face it, 0.5mm over a span from rear axle to BB of [say] 430mm is minimal indeed. I'd say that chainring needs some close inspection and further pondering.
From your account things have gone from [worn out] perfection to new chain unacceptable with no other changes to the system, isn't that right? Seems there's something missing in the equation, and since the story so far says the chainline was the same (from old chain to new) the solution is not that.
__________________
'Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer.' -- W. C. Fields |
#24
|
||||
|
||||
“A couple months ago I began to feel an awkward, intermittent soft click in the drivetrain and thought there might be some play at the pedal, chainring/arm, the BB, or the freewheel. These areas were all inspected and found to be fine both from a tooth-wear and bearing/play standpoint.”
I have the same problem. SRAM 8-sp chain on shimano 8-sp drivetrain. driving me crazy. chain has under 1,000 miles, no stiff links. i can feel it in my pedals when it “clicks,” and its not my pedals, i swapped them out. Also, less pressure, softer click. still looking! Last edited by Tz779; 01-09-2021 at 09:15 PM. |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Update: Je suis un imbécile.
Rounding a sharp corner on my commute today, the drivetrain 'click' became much more pronounced. I stopped, determined to track this down once and for all. Checked that the rear wheel was centred. Checked that the freewheel was intact and secure. Checked that the chainring had no play. Checked that the chain was running smooth with no stiff links. Grabbed the crank arm, pulled and pushed on it as hard as I could... and there was play. Not much, but enough. https://imgur.com/WN8C5tr When I got to work it was a two-minute fix with a 10mm and 1.5mm Allen, first checking that the axle was tight as it should be on each side, and then using the collar to correctly set the preload. An apology is winging its way to White industries. I'll say this though - it took a lot more force than I'd usually expect to detect side-to-side play in the axle on this setup. There is no up-down play of any kind at all, and now that the axle is snugged up it's as buttery-smooth as I remember it. Let this thread remain as an aid to others, so they might not waste the time and energy that I did! Last edited by Mr B; 01-17-2021 at 09:15 AM. |
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
|
#27
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
Chisholm's Custom Wheels Qui Si Parla Campagnolo |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Essentially, yes. About 1.5mm of play across the axle, despite both sides still being torqued on pretty tight (first thing I checked way back when). Only evident when grabbing the frame and crank with both hands and pulling hard.
I nipped the bolts up a little tighter first, then set the collar in place to take up the slack (before backing it off 1/6th of a turn, as directed). |
|
|