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#1
10-27-2020, 09:41 PM
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OT: Garage Door vs Carriage Door
Along with insulating my garage, I need to do something about the overhead garage door. Currently have a thin metal 9x7 garage door with an opener. I am using the garage for a workshop space so wont ever put a car in there, and dont see a need for an overhead garage door. Typical doors seem to run +/- $1k for a basic overhead insulated door with a couple windows, and 2-3x (or more) for carriage house style doors.
I'm thinking about just building some carriage house doors using insulated sheathing to get some R value. Am I crazy to consider it? Has anyone done or seen something similar? 
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#4
10-28-2020, 06:45 AM
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It sounds like you want to keep the doors, so that you can open them in good weather.
Another option to replacing them is to winterize with insulation that can be added in colder months and removed in warmer months. I've seen products on Amazon that are basically foam board with a backing that stick in panels. Of course, this means that you can't take it down on a warm day and you have to take it down in spring and repeat. Regardless of what you do to the door (new door or winterize), you will need to figure out a way to prevent transfer of heat around the door. These must have large gaps at the top, bottom and sides. That means a threshold barrier and likely tape around the rest of the edges (inside and out). Just another option for your budget.
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#5
10-28-2020, 07:21 AM
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Wood warps. I'd buy top quality doors from a company like clopay. Back in 2011 I bought their R15 metal doors with no windows for maximum insulation. Those doors were custom sized 18' x 9'. Insulation works in the summer and winter.
https://www.clopaydoor.com/residenti...8aArkGEALw_wcB
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#6
10-28-2020, 09:39 AM
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Building large doors like that isn't difficult - moving them around the shop is... The challenge is finding the proper hardware to support the weight. You will need some big a** hinges (like 36" strap hinges), and probably need to through bolt them so they don't bend / warp over time.
You can sandwich rigid foam insulation between layers of wood to get some pretty good R-factors - depending on how thick a door you can live with. I would avoid plywood or other sheet goods for any exterior surface. High quality pine, and maintaining good quality paint should work out just fine.
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#7
10-28-2020, 11:42 AM
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The advantage of hinged carriage doors would be if you need to use the doors for foot traffic and if you want to gain overhead space inside the garage. Roll up doors allow you to lift the doors partially for ventilation and still be sheltered.
__________________
You always have a plan on the bus...
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#8
10-28-2020, 02:00 PM
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Garage Journal is the place to look for ideas.
I've seen a few threads go by where people have built their own carriage style doors, and even bifold style. As has been mentioned--hinges need to be heavy enough. They are also a little harder to weatherstrip/seal. I may do carriage style on one end of my double-ended garage because I have some other issues like low ceiling height. People have used dimensional lumber plus rigid insulation and sheathing. There was a cool article in Fine Homebuilding sometime in the past couple of years with a full set of instructions to do a fancy version with all the trim: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/rea...dden-fasteners One thing you might look at if you have the ceiling height would be a roll-up door. It gets rid of the track. The other possibility if you have an existing door, is you can buy an insulation kit to fit standard doors--get a good garage door guy to re-weatherstrip if needed, and add the interior insulation--that would be the low cost alternative...
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#9
10-28-2020, 02:25 PM
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To determine if carriage doors will work you need to check the plumb and level of the existing opening. If the jambs are out of plumb carriage doors would be a challenge. Garage doors work in a huge range of building tolerance
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#10
10-28-2020, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
__________________
“A bicycle is not a sofa” -- Dario Pegoretti
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#11
10-28-2020, 08:23 PM
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Yeah, the ceilings are a little under 8' so no roll up door. Taking down the overhead tracks would make drywalling the ceiling easier too. The current door is a thin steel door with lots of patina, the window is falling out, and I can't find a replacement seal for the bottom anywhere due to the angle in on the bottom of the door. I (and my wife) wont be sad to see it go away. I thought about just insulating it with a kit, but it really should (be torn down with the whole garage and rebuilt to make it bigger
 ) be replaced.
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#12
10-28-2020, 08:24 PM
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Those that have done it, where did you find hinges? Gate hinges maybe?
If ask on garage journal, the answers would likely be like asking whether Canpy is better than Shimano... I mean WE all know the answer to that but the discussion would just ramble on.
Last edited by cmbicycles; 10-28-2020 at 08:26 PM.
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#13
10-29-2020, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
__________________
“A bicycle is not a sofa” -- Dario Pegoretti
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#15
10-29-2020, 11:17 AM
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OT: Garage Door vs Carriage Door
I am actually in the process of doing something similar to turn a previously unfinished area under our 3 season room into usable space.
I got some sliding doors from an old horse stable that I redid and hung with hinges. They are made of 4x8 sheets of plywood (3/4") with 2x6s for the crossbars and frame and they are HEAVY, my guess is 150lb. To the point made earlier, if you want to do something similar, make sure you get really heavy duty hinges. I am using 3 per door, each rated at 200lb, and they are needed due to the lever. 
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