Anyone still have patch kits that work?

[Spaghetti Legs]

Another vote for Rema patches. I have a bulk box and can of Slime rubber cement. I’ll patch the tube and then gently clamp it in my bench vise for an hour or 12 and the tube is good to go.

I have some Slime self adhesive patches I recently used on a “flat-stravaganza” ride when I blew through both spare tubes. They held up fine though I wouldn’t trust them for a permanent patch.

[DeBike]

Rema, Park Tool vulcanizing patches. Slime and Park tool glueless for quicker, temporary fixes. I use new tubes for back up in my back and do the patching at home. I also carry patch kit, usually glueless, with me for back up to the back up tube.

I find the best solution for flats is having quality tires that are in, at least, good shape. I do sometimes use older tires that still have some wear left for shorter, closer to home rides.

Also, for me, now having numerous bikes and doing most of the maintenance on them, I have changed tires so often that it is now no big deal to switch out tires for different needs.

[cinema]

I'm really surprised no one else had good experience with stick on patches. I have a bunch in all my tubes and tires right now and some have been there for years. I wonder if it's the climate here or my weight. just need to make sure its fully adhered, using pressure all across it for about 30 secs at the beginning and after it's been slightly inflated.

I love the advice someone gave not to lift the tape off the rubber patch or 'test' it; makes total sense!

[jc031699]

Originally Posted by hartmmike

I was having the same problem and found the solution somewhere that i can't remember.

1 Spread the glue in a larger area than you need.

2 Let it dry.

3 Leave the clear tape on it. It will lift the patch if you try to take it off.

And finally, probably the hardest part. Do NOT test it just reinstall. Testing causes the patch to lift.

Totally agree

I had the same problem, and found success finally by never skimping on the use of glue (even though you see lots of warnings to not use too much, I found that hard to do). It needs to be applied fully and over a much larger area than you think you will need. It needs to be totally dry, and then the bond is essentially instant when the patch is applied.

If you have to wait to get a complete bond, that implies that the glue has not completely off-gassed (dried) before the patch went on. You’ll see this as the outer edge being stuck down but the center of the patch having a poor bond with air intrusion around the hole in the tube. This is because the glue was only able to continue to dry on the edges of the patch.

I leave the little tubes of glue unopened for the patch kit on my bike. They dry out easily when capped. For home use, I got a big screw top tin of vulcanizing fluid from the auto parts store.

Another reason to leave the plastic is it keeps the extra glue around the patch from adhering the tube to the inside of the tire.


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[Seramount]

been using the small (no. F0 / 16mm) Rema patches for years.

failure rate is very low and usually due to improper application (aka pilot error).

be sure to sand the tube well outside the area where the patch will go and apply the glue in the same manner.

and as already noted above, DON'T try and remove the clear plastic backing.

have a couple of the Park stick-ons in my roadside kit, but they're pretty old and I'd be leery of using them except in an emergency. always carry two spare tubes so the likelihood of having to rely on them is pretty slim.

[marciero]

I almost always use glue-on patches as the first option for field repair on tubed setup bikes. Is my practice to find the hole anyway-so can inspect the tire more closely. I only use a virgin tube if the hole is in a place that would compromise the adhesion of a patch. Another thing I do is to patch the tube with it inflated so that the patched area is not stressed when it is installed. Not sure if that is really necessary but it makes sense to do so.

[Dead Man]

Originally Posted by marciero

Another thing I do is to patch the tube with it inflated so that the patched area is not stressed when it is installed. Not sure if that is really necessary but it makes sense to do so.

i also think this is important, especially w the Park patches

ive been using the Park sticker patches for several years without problem. i have some tubes in rotation i patched w 'em years ago, still holding

i think some of you guys just suck at stuff.

[Plum Hill]

Great luck with Rema.
After a friend gave me the tip, I started using a Dremel with a sanding drum to scuff the tube. After gluing and adding the patch, I sandwich the tube between two pieces of 1/4” MDF and clamp with a spring clamp.
I’ve had good luck with Park sticky patches in the past, but only use then as a last resort now. More than likely, they’ve aged in my seat pack.

[Peter P.]

To add to all the great, valid suggestions:

In addition to scuffing the tube with the included sandpaper, try wiping the tube with rubbing alcohol.

Do not spread the glue with the tip of the tube. Use your finger. Why? Because I had a problem with patch failures until I looked at the pictogram instructions in the patch kit, which show a finger spreading the glue. Sounds stupid, but doing so results in a smoother, even layer of glue.

Apply 2 layers of glue before applying the patch.

[bshell]

On the Rema/Tip Top patches the clear plastic sheet covering the patch is split in the middle so that the user can peel each of the halves off from the
center ->outwards. Just give it a flex and it will open up. Pulling across from the edge is totally doable as long as one exercises a bit of care/fingernail pressure.

I've found low grade cut damage to tubes from leaving that plastic on between tube and tire. Ride on it a while and you might see a perfect outline of the square with little chafing slices from the edges and wrinkles. Not sure if/when that might become an issue though.

An even glue layer is a matter of execution over the tools used. I wouldn't want vulcanizing fluid on my finger for the rest of the ride.

ps. Always pack your trash.

[saab2000]

I think many people get too impatient and they want to reinstall the tube right away. The cement must cure completely and this takes a while.

I got a bulk box of Rema patches a while back and they’re the smallest size, little bigger than a penny. I’ve had some even smaller ones, like a dime, and they’re even better. Most holes are just a pinprick size so the big patches are a waste.

After I get the patch on (with the backing cellophane) I used some light pressure with a rag or paper towel to make sure it is fully attached. This also squeezes out excess cement. When it appears to be adhering completely I hang it in a way that the patch is under no tension.

Then I let it sit, sometimes for days.

I’ve got tubes in service with several patches. The process is very satisfying when successful, which is most, but not all, of the time.

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by bshell

I wouldn't want vulcanizing fluid on my finger for the rest of the ride.

Patch kits should be a last resort for on the road repairs and using them is better left for at home; carry at least one spare tube, and use the tube first because a tube change is much quicker.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by bshell

An even glue layer is a matter of execution over the tools used. I wouldn't want vulcanizing fluid on my finger for the rest of the ride.

ps. Always pack your trash.

That's what the nitrile gloves are for!

[rowebr]

Originally Posted by Seramount

been using the small (no. F0 / 16mm) Rema patches for years.

failure rate is very low and usually due to improper application (aka pilot error).

be sure to sand the tube well outside the area where the patch will go and apply the glue in the same manner.

and as already noted above, DON'T try and remove the clear plastic backing.

+1 to all this. I've noticed some tubes have a slick outer coating that will foul up the patching process unless you sand it off, so really sand the tube well.