Tips for new carbon fork?

[shovelhd]

Originally Posted by Kontact

Are they steel stems to prevent from cutting into them?

No, aluminum. No need to dull the blade. They are sacrificial parts.

[Kontact]

Does aluminum keep the blade straight, or are you cutting more by eye?

[NHAero]

May be displaying even more ignorance here, but please tell me why it's critical to have the steerer cut be perfectly flat and perpendicular to the steerer axis, when the top of the steerer is recessed slightly into a spacer or the stem anyway?

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by NHAero

May be displaying even more ignorance here, but please tell me why it's critical to have the steerer cut be perfectly flat and perpendicular to the steerer axis, when the top of the steerer is recessed slightly into a spacer or the stem anyway?

It doesn't have to be, but you're more likely to run into issues with the top cap and plug when the top of the steerer isn't square.

An uneven job may also cause uneven clamping stresses leading to a crack.


Why take a $200+ fork and cut it like firewood? Do the job correctly.

[NHAero]

I'm not arguing for a careless hack job (the Husqvarna chainsaw will remain in the shed), but it feels to me as though people are making this into a task that requires more exactitude than it really needs. I cut a stainless steerer by carefully taping a cut line on the steerer and using a Dremel, then smoothed it out with a flat file. Is cutting the carbon steerer demanding of more than that?

My sense about keeping clamping forces even is that the best approach is a 5mm spacer on top of the stem, so that the steerer fully fills the stem and protrudes slightly above.

Originally Posted by Kontact

It doesn't have to be, but you're more likely to run into issues with the top cap and plug when the top of the steerer isn't square.

An uneven job may also cause uneven clamping stresses leading to a crack.


Why take a $200+ fork and cut it like firewood? Do the job correctly.

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by NHAero

I'm not arguing for a careless hack job (the Husqvarna chainsaw will remain in the shed), but it feels to me as though people are making this into a task that requires more exactitude than it really needs. I cut a stainless steerer by carefully taping a cut line on the steerer and using a Dremel, then smoothed it out with a flat file. Is cutting the carbon steerer demanding of more than that?

My sense about keeping clamping forces even is that the best approach is a 5mm spacer on top of the stem, so that the steerer fully fills the stem and protrudes slightly above.

I don't get the sense that anyone's suggestions are any more exacting than when you used a dremel. My stem + junk spacer method only requires the stem you already have and a few minutes work. And unlike using a Dremel and tape, requires virtually no skill.

[shovelhd]

Originally Posted by Kontact

Does aluminum keep the blade straight, or are you cutting more by eye?

The stems create a gap that the blade fits into, just like a real cutting guide.

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

The stems create a gap that the blade fits into, just like a real cutting guide.

I realize, but a cutting guide is generally hardened steel to prevent the blade from wandering into it. It seems like two pieces of aluminum aren't going to stop the blade if you don't pay attention.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by Kontact

Why take a $200+ fork and cut it like firewood? Do the job correctly.

Careful there...some of us take pride in our firewood!

(Full disclosure - not mine! I've got messy stacks everywhere!)

[weisan]

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by cadence90

Of course not...I would never even think such a thing!

In fact, I would bet cash-on-the-barrel-head that the same dummy (not you, of course) who cut the steerer, forgetting to add the stem stack, is the same dummy who scrawled "add stem height, dummy!" to the outside of the box of your fork cutting guide. Yeah, that's it, that's the ticket. What a real dummy that guy must have been, jeez....




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For your amusement...I've been looking for a 1" carbon fork with canti bosses for my Litespeed Blue Ridge, but just can't seem to find one anywhere...

So...I'm going to open up a box that I stashed away 5 years ago and prepare to circumcise a New Old Stock Alpha Q CX fork.

I'm going to measure about a hunnert times before I apply blade to the carbon steerer.

Wish me luck!

[cadence90]

Originally Posted by C40_guy

For your amusement...I've been looking for a 1" carbon fork with canti bosses for my Litespeed Blue Ridge, but just can't seem to find one anywhere...

So...I'm going to open up a box that I stashed away 5 years ago and prepare to circumcise a New Old Stock Alpha Q CX fork.

I'm going to measure about a hunnert times before I apply blade to the carbon steerer.

Wish me luck!

Ha ha ha!!
In that case I wish you luck a hunnert and twice times over!


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[bjf]

I bought the tools a couple of years ago (crown race puller, crown race setter, and cups installer) and learned to use them. BECAUSE: Shortly before that I got a new Bianchi Super Pista and took it to my nearest LBS to have them cut the steerer and set the star nut. Off to the track for my first beginner session, and though nothing bad happened, the steering didn't feel right. Took it apart when I got home, and found that the star not was not straight in the tube. Made it impossible to adjust the bearings properly.

I admit that was an unusually incompetent LBS, but I am more careful (and often more capable) than many LBS mechanics. Just saying . . .