Seeking Campagnolo Advice for Steel Custom

[Jerrous]

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[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

I recently placed an order for a steel racing bike from a small Italian builder. I asked him to braze on the front derailleur mount because I like how a bike looks without clamps. The builder is constructing the frame in a manner that reflects my desire to build the bike up with modern Campagnolo in traditional gearing. I would like to understand what this means exactly.

1) How do these stated preferences change the design of the frame (SL tubing)?

2) Will I encounter compatibility issues should I find an older Campy group, say in 10 speed, that I want to use?

3) What is the performance/value/lifespan of the 2011 Athena 11sp set in alloy? I like that group because it fits the vintage aesthetic of the build. I've read some reviews that basically seem positive. Are there significant reasons for considering other groups? I do not care about weight. I realize that this group does not have Ultrashift. Some people seem to care a lot about that. I have no aspirations to be a professional racer, but it does sound like a nice feature.

4) What is the lifespan of a Campy group in carbon fiber? I don't want any carbon on the bike, but I'm curious.

5) Can someone school me on how to choose the appropriate cassette option? I want to know all of the details.

1)-it doesn't as long as the rear spacing is 130mm

2)-Nope..130mm..A Campagnolo compatible hub that accepts 10s also accepts 11s(and 9s).

3)..lever longevity 'can' be an issue but I've seen 2011/2012 Athena groups with tons of miles w/o any issue.

4)-long time

5)-gearing depends entirely on you, your strengths and weaknesses, where you ride, etc...no one answer.

[Jerrous]

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[RedRider]

The only issue I see might be the front derailleur braze on being designed and positioned so you can adjust for crankset changes; standard, compact or (heaven forbid) a triple.

[ceolwulf]

Is it possible that he would set the height of the front derailleur braze-on differently if you were using a 52 or 53 big ring as opposed to a compact?

I'm just guessing.


edit: great minds etc

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

Thanks, Oldpotatoe. Is there any reason why it wouldn't be 130mm? Why would the builder want to know if I wanted to set it up with modern Campy in traditional gearing? I got a strong impression that these options were going to have a bearing on the build. Can you direct me to a resource on gearing?

Road frames have been 130mm for over 2 decades, hope the frame builder knows that. A well made frame of today can use older components and a older frame from the 90s, some older, can use modern components.

As for the front der brazeon tab..if it's put where it should be, it should be fine for a triple or a compact(50t big ring)...but MY suggestion is to get a clampon...takes the worry out of Fders, looks OK, much more adjustable..

Gearing is personal..tell us about you, where ya want to ride, type terrain, etc??

You'll get suggestions but what actually works is more trial and error.

[echelon_john]

Yep, it's the FD brazeon. Traditional brazeons have less adjustment range to accommodate a standard (53) vs. compact (48-50) large chainring.

There are brazens with a longer slot (20mm) that the builder can use to provide for switching from reg to compact down the road, should you wish.

[Jerrous]

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[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

I was told by the builder that brazing on the front derailleur would mean that switching to a compact would require filing off the braze-on (gasp). I live in a mostly flat part of the U.S. so from what I understand having the traditional gearing should be fine. Like I mentioned before, I like the look of a frame without clamps. Tell me it wasn't a stupid decision.

Have him either use a longer tab, mount it a wee bit lower or get a clampon.

I have installed a LOT of compacts onto steel or other frames, with FD brazeon tabs and I have had to make the slot longer on only a VERY small minority..come to think ofit, most were TREK OCLVs, early gens..TREK started making a longer tab for this reason.

[RedRider]

Originally Posted by ceolwulf

Is it possible that he would set the height of the front derailleur braze-on differently if you were using a 52 or 53 big ring as opposed to a compact?

I'm just guessing.


edit: great minds etc

That's a question for your framebuilder. It's only an issue if the braze on doesn't have enough adjustment ability.

[Jerrous]

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[Jerrous]

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[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

I'm interested in gearing that will work well for everything from casual rides to centuries. I may do some racing, but that is not a priority. I will ride on mostly flat country roads, but I don't want to walk my bike up any hills. I may occasionally travel with the bike and use it in places that are mountainous. I am in good shape.

Get a compact and , 12-25....34 chainring and 25 lowest gear is a low gear.

Or 'mid compact'..52/36 and that same 12-25 or 12-27(11s)....depending on where you ride. a 50/12 is still a very high gear...

[tmf]

Originally Posted by Jerrous

I'm interested in gearing that will work well for everything from casual rides to centuries. I may do some racing, but that is not a priority. I will ride on mostly flat country roads, but I don't want to walk my bike up any hills. I may occasionally travel with the bike and use it in places that are mountainous. I am in good shape.

I live in central Indiana where it is mostly flat with an occasional hill. My 10-speed gearing is 53/39 in front and 12-23 in back. I think some of my wheels have an 11t high, and one cassette has a 25t low. The only time I use my lowest 2 or 3 gears is into a very strong headwind, or on the little hill on my way back home after a really long ride. It sounds like your terrain is similar to mine with perhaps a few more hills - so I would recommend 53/39 standard crankset with an 11-25 or 12-25 cassette. The 39-25 low gear is a pretty good low gear if you don't have much climbing. If you think that is too low, you could go with a 23t low in the back.

[Gsinill]

Based on how you described yourself ("...no aspirations to become a professional racer" etc.) it doesn't sound like not being able to run a compact crank set would be a complete deal breaker.
Just use a regular one and if you get bitten by the bug enough and find out at some point down the road (pun intended) that you really "need" to go compact, decide on what to do.
If that really turns out to be the case, you'll probably end up with more than one bike anyway so why not build this one the way you like it?

Originally Posted by Jerrous

Like I mentioned before, I like the look of a frame without clamps. Tell me it wasn't a stupid decision.