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#1
11-16-2019, 08:12 AM
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Deda Murex Quill Stem
I wan to install a Deda Murex quill stem on my 1997 Waterford 1200. Years ago, I had some back issues and raised the bars with a 90 degree stem. I want to go back to a traditional quill angle. However, I read some reviews where people used this stem on a rebuild of a classic frame and found to flex too much. Any experience? Could these reviews have been written by folks who did not start riding until after treadless stems became the norm? What have been your experiences with the Deda Murex?
Thanks for your feedback.
__________________
"There is no perfectionism on the road to contentment." 
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#2
11-16-2019, 08:16 AM
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I have used one in the past.
It's fine. The goal is to get the bar where you want it and the ease of install with the frontal face plate...so what if it flexes a bit under certain load, who cares...pick your poison.
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#3
11-16-2019, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
As for excessive stem flex - I think you're right, and what you're seeing is comments from people unfamiliar with quill stems and possibly even with classic frames. Personally I can't imagine what sort of rider gymnastics would be required to actually make a quill stem flex.
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#4
11-16-2019, 08:44 AM
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I'm running one on my Serotta CSI, can't say I've noticed any flex. If it's there it's not anymore noticeable than whatever flex might be there on my other quill stems.
One hit though is to tighten one side down completely and then if there's any gap leave it on the other side vs leaving the same gap on both sides.
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#5
11-16-2019, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
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#6
11-16-2019, 09:05 AM
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I had a Murex or two
they were great looking and svelte in their day. my recollection is they were a bit flexy but never a real issue to be concerned about for my riding style. if you were a 250 lb hammerhead that could be a different story due to how the bars are bolted in. Salsa SUL two bolt faceplate stems were steel good looking but only in black. Or the always fine but bar-scratching single bolt Nitto Pearl or Technomic.
__________________
Crust Malocchio, Turbo Creo
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#7
11-16-2019, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for all the feedback. My first stem on this bike was a Pearl from Nitto. I sold it, and now I think I want the Murex due to being able to swap out bars quickly. Plus, the new Pearl, the NP, just doesn't look to be the same quality.
Thanks for the tightening advise. I think I read that somewhere else. I have a few other Dead bits and they all work very well, and look nice.
__________________
"There is no perfectionism on the road to contentment."
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#8
11-16-2019, 10:36 AM
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I was going to suggest the Eclipse if you were worried about stiffness probably could find one used or nos on eBay. I had one on a bike I had in the early 00s. That being said both my current bikes have some Deda bits on them, I’m sure their old stuff was nice too.
Quote:
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#9
11-16-2019, 10:48 AM
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vintage stems at Boulder Bike
The Murex is fine but the finish is not a nice as traditional quill stems. I have found Boulder Bicycle to be a reliable source of vintage gear at good prices. They are also quite knowledgeable. If you don't see an item you need, email them as they have a lot of inventory which is not listed.
http://boulderbicycle.bike/
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#10
11-16-2019, 11:06 AM
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I thought that mine from about 2003 was very flexy, and replaced it with an ITM Eclypse which is very rigid.
__________________
Be who you are and say what you feel, because those who mind don't matter and those who matter don't mind. - Dr. Seuss
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#11
11-16-2019, 11:14 AM
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There are plenty of NOS Nitto Pearl stems out there if you don’t like the NP model...one of those plug in and forget bike parts.
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#12
11-16-2019, 11:33 AM
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Regarding stem flex, there are two ways for a rider to use their arms and upper body to control the bike from flopping left to right under intense, out-of-saddle pedaling forces.
One can apply lateral force, or one can apply twisting force along a longitudinal axis. I prefer the former, since there is much less muscular force needed through the rider's arms. Less force through this load path equates to greater efficiency, so I control the bike with mere side-to-side force applied to the bars instead of twisting them. Using the latter "twisting" approach, a traditional stem or especially a hollow "death" stem will produce an ungodly amount of flex and may well result in component failure over time. Wider bars will yet increase the stress and flex of the bars when applying twisting forces (roughly up/down alternating force applied to the hoods or the drops). There will always be [I]some[I] up/down twisting force being fed into the bars to steer the bike and to control the upper body's moving mass, but the bulk of the force can be side-to-side and which seems more efficient than effecting large forces across the width of the bar. This because half of the bar's width is much less than the distance from the bars to the pavement (where the rocking bike actually pivots from).
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#13
11-16-2019, 11:33 AM
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OP probably you wont notice because steel frames flex tiny bit aswell. And between you and me have tad flex is a good thing.
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#14
11-16-2019, 12:33 PM
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I liked these back in the day and would run one again. I think they are about as flexy as most of the other forged aluminum stems from that time. I prefer a salsa or nitto pearl for quill stems nowadays but those murex are nice.
__________________
please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot.
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#15
11-16-2019, 02:36 PM
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The Murex was considered a flexy stem at the time. Reviews in the mags noted the two bolt design was handy, but the thing was flexy by quill stem standards.
A couple people mentioned the iTM Eclypse - it’s a excellent choice and plenty stiff. When you consider all the steps involved in swapping a drop bar, the two-bolt stem will save you time, but it’s a rounding error.
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