UltraTorque primer needed

[C40_guy]

Due to the difficulty of finding square taper cranksets, I'm venturing into the land of UT bottom brackets...

So...I need a primer...

What tool (or tools) do I need to install UT cups and crankset? Campy or aftermarket best? This will be on a relatively low use bike, so I don't expect having to remove the crankset anytime soon...

Thanks!

[vespasianus]

For the cups, nothing special. If it is threaded, they go in like any other BB, and if press fit, I used red lock tight to keep them in. Just use the appropriate tool.

For the crankset, you need a nice long 10mm Allen key that you can attach to a nice long torque wrench. The cranks tighten up to 40-60 lb feet of torque - which is good bit.

[Plum Hill]

Spend the extra bucks for an Abbey Tools bb cup tool, and put a piece of plastic wrap between cup and tool on installation.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by C40_guy

Due to the difficulty of finding square taper cranksets, I'm venturing into the land of UT bottom brackets...

So...I need a primer...

What tool (or tools) do I need to install UT cups and crankset? Campy or aftermarket best? This will be on a relatively low use bike, so I don't expect having to remove the crankset anytime soon...

Thanks!

Above for tools.
Make sure the frame BB shell is prepped(if threaded).
Grease inside BB shell(and teflon tape on RH cup if the BB is the 'far superior Italian threading'
Grease around bearings and on hirth teeth. Even on SR/Record(Cult and USB bearings)
Put RH cup clip 'partially' on cup..not into holes yet.
RH crank in..slip it in..seat it..wee clip into holes
Grease around wavy washer for LH cup..
LH crank arm in..tap home..make sure crank isn't 'clocked'..crank arms opposite each other.
Depending on year..crank bolt(with grease on it) into crank..RH side for older cranks, LH side for newer ones.
NOTE-If the spindle is SR, titanium, the bolt is left threaded--lefty-tighty-otherwise if steel..normal-righty tighty.
Tighten to torque-go ride.

[djdj]

The only thing I would add is that I remove the thread locker that comes on the cups, before greasing the threads, because the coating makes it much more difficult to screw in the cups. I've never had one (English or Italian) come loose when torqued to spec.

[Gsinill]

Originally Posted by djdj

The only thing I would add is that I remove the thread locker that comes on the cups, before greasing the threads, because the coating makes it much more difficult to screw in the cups. I've never had one (English or Italian) come loose when torqued to spec.

Interesting, I never did but was always wondering what it does having both given the opposite purpose.

[Ozz]

Originally Posted by C40_guy

Due to the difficulty of finding square taper cranksets, I'm venturing into the land of UT bottom brackets...
...
Thanks!

Are you looking for compact or 53/39 square taper?

I just purchased a Record Carbon compact on ebay, and if it looks good, I could be selling my 53/39....175mm

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by Ozz

Are you looking for compact or 53/39 square taper?

I just purchased a Record Carbon compact on ebay, and if it looks good, I could be selling my 53/39....175mm

Thanks...

Looking for compact. Just bought a Record Compact on ebay, will probably put that one on my Prestige CX. I don't really like how the external cups look, so I'd prefer to keep square taper on my steel bikes and my C50...

[robt57]

Originally Posted by Plum Hill

Spend the extra bucks for an Abbey Tools bb cup tool, and put a piece of plastic wrap between cup and tool on installation.

I use this linen, like old Tee relegated to rag bin. Tightens up the fit lowering slipping [I use the spanner version tool] and protects same time...

[robt57]

Originally Posted by C40_guy

Thanks...

Looking for compact. Just bought a Record Compact on ebay, will probably put that one on my Prestige CX. I don't really like how the external cups look, so I'd prefer to keep square taper on my steel bikes and my C50...

Won't critique your druthers, but the UT system you are passing on is very good indeed. Moving the bearing outboard and the axle diameter huge improvements IMO. And UT required no special tools either, unlike PT.

As for Loc-tite red on press in cups. I'd use purple personally, especially if a painted frame and heat may eventually get applied to fee it up. That's just me.. Naked Ti, why not..

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by robt57

Won't critique your druthers, but the UT system you are passing on is very good indeed. Moving the bearing outboard and the axle diameter huge improvements IMO. And UT required no special tools either, unlike PT.

Not passing on...adding UT into the fleet. Can't find compact 170mm square taper cranksets anywhere, so I'm moving into the modern age...(bought my first square taper crankset in '72)

Just picked up a Record crankset and ordered the Abby cup tool and a long 10mm hex socket. Now where did I leave my Phil Wood grease...

[robt57]

I have a 170 10s record i may loose..

[vespasianus]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Above for tools.
Make sure the frame BB shell is prepped(if threaded).
Grease inside BB shell(and teflon tape on RH cup if the BB is the 'far superior Italian threading'
Grease around bearings and on hirth teeth. Even on SR/Record(Cult and USB bearings)
Put RH cup clip 'partially' on cup..not into holes yet.
RH crank in..slip it in..seat it..wee clip into holes
Grease around wavy washer for LH cup..
LH crank arm in..tap home..make sure crank isn't 'clocked'..crank arms opposite each other.
Depending on year..crank bolt(with grease on it) into crank..RH side for older cranks, LH side for newer ones.
NOTE-If the spindle is SR, titanium, the bolt is left threaded--lefty-tighty-otherwise if steel..normal-righty tighty.
Tighten to torque-go ride.

I would follow this and add that the one extra tool that comes in handy is a set of small needle nose pliers that can be used to get the C-clip into place. You can do it by hand but the pliers help.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by vespasianus

I would follow this and add that the one extra tool that comes in handy is a set of small needle nose pliers that can be used to get the C-clip into place. You can do it by hand but the pliers help.

Thanks, that's a helpful tip. Amazing how often those needle nose pliers come in handy!

[tmf]

Getting the clip in isn’t usually too difficult, but when it comes time to remove it you will definitely benefit from the needle nose.

It was mentioned, but a good torque wrench for the bolt is a great idea.