Budget Gravel: Hybrid Conversion or Steel Frame?

[clawhammer]

I'm looking to build up a budget gravel/commuter bike with the Sora 9-speed groupset I'm pulling from my latest road bike. It doesn't need to be anything fancy, just something that can handle gravel/dirt roads and still be decent on the pavement. I'm pretty new to anything off-road, and I'm aiming to stay under about $400 for tires, wheels, brakes, and frame or forks.

I'll get a set of canti brakes, 40mm tires, and 36-spoke wheels, but I'm having trouble figuring out what to do for the frame. I've got a relatively new entry-level Trek hybrid (FX 7.0) that seems like it could be a good starting point, but the stem is a cheapo threaded quill stem with integrated handlebars and I need to replace the flat bars with drop bars. Is there any point to trying to find new forks for the Trek, or should I be looking for a used steel frame? Is it feasible to find a decent frame for under $200?

[srcarter]

Originally Posted by clawhammer

I'm looking to build up a budget gravel/commuter bike with the Sora 9-speed groupset I'm pulling from my latest road bike. It doesn't need to be anything fancy, just something that can handle gravel/dirt roads and still be decent on the pavement. I'm pretty new to anything off-road, and I'm aiming to stay under about $400 for tires, wheels, brakes, and frame or forks.

I'll get a set of canti brakes, 40mm tires, and 36-spoke wheels, but I'm having trouble figuring out what to do for the frame. I've got a relatively new entry-level Trek hybrid (FX 7.0) that seems like it could be a good starting point, but the stem is a cheapo threaded quill stem with integrated handlebars and I need to replace the flat bars with drop bars. Is there any point to trying to find new forks for the Trek, or should I be looking for a used steel frame? Is it feasible to find a decent frame for under $200?

Definitely doable to find a frame for under $200. At least around here (SF bay area), you can pick up a pretty decent complete cyclocross bike for under $4-500 on craigslist. There is a Redline CX Aluminum frame listed now for $150 (on the smaller size at 52cm). https://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/bop...468309123.html

[Ken Robb]

It sounds like you have a 1" threaded fork so you can probably find some nice stems and bars made by Nitto to work with your Trek. Their Dirt Drop stems are specifically designed for using drops on bikes designed for flat bars. OTOH I used one with Moustache bars on my Rivendell Allrounder and I think you should consider those bars too.

Rivendell site has lots of info on the kind of things you are considering.

[Ken Robb]

I just looked up Trek info on your bike and it looks like you can replace your bars/stem with Nitto Technomic or Technomic deluxe which will let you get your bars lower and/or at least as high as they are now. The catch is you will also need new brake/shifter levers so I think the cost would be too high vs. buying a used bike more in line with your riding plans. If you sell your Trek your total investment for a new-to-you used bike may be less than the cost of bars,stem,levers to do a conversion.

It was just pointed out to me that you already have Sora levers so bars and stem should do it for you.

[choke]

Originally Posted by Ken Robb

The catch is you will also need new brake/shifter levers so I think the cost would be too high vs. buying a used bike more in line with your riding plans.

The OP has a 9sp Sora group so that should be covered.

I'm with you, a simple bar and stem swap fixes what seems to be the biggest stumbling block.

[ceolwulf]

A couple people around here have used old "ten-speeds" usually Sekine or Peugeot in this area but whatever is common where you are will work fine. These are 27" wheel so you put some 700c in there and you have heaps of tire clearance. Then the brakes are, well, weak, usually centrepulls but at least they clear with no issues and normally reach the rims; or you can get a cheap eBay pair of long reach dual pivots. Put a decent saddle on and you're pretty much sorted. These frames tend to ride really nicely too, obviously not racey whatsoever but nice and comfortable and quite strongly built too, I mean they're gas pipe after all. If you're on a real budget and also not in a huge hurry (either to get the bike or to get down the road on the bike) this is a fine option. Do make sure to avoid French or Swiss bottom brackets, the bottom bracket "standard" wars go back a very long way ...

[veggieburger]

Originally Posted by ceolwulf

A couple people around here have used old "ten-speeds" usually Sekine or Peugeot in this area but whatever is common where you are will work fine. These are 27" wheel so you put some 700c in there and you have heaps of tire clearance. Then the brakes are, well, weak, usually centrepulls but at least they clear with no issues and normally reach the rims; or you can get a cheap eBay pair of long reach dual pivots. Put a decent saddle on and you're pretty much sorted. These frames tend to ride really nicely too, obviously not racey whatsoever but nice and comfortable and quite strongly built too, I mean they're gas pipe after all. If you're on a real budget and also not in a huge hurry (either to get the bike or to get down the road on the bike) this is a fine option. Do make sure to avoid French or Swiss bottom brackets, the bottom bracket "standard" wars go back a very long way ...

Sage wisdom here coming out of Manitoba. Keep your eyes peeled at garage sales and 2nd hand stores.

[Tandem Rider]

Originally Posted by ceolwulf

A couple people around here have used old "ten-speeds" usually Sekine or Peugeot in this area but whatever is common where you are will work fine. These are 27" wheel so you put some 700c in there and you have heaps of tire clearance. Then the brakes are, well, weak, usually centrepulls but at least they clear with no issues and normally reach the rims; or you can get a cheap eBay pair of long reach dual pivots. Put a decent saddle on and you're pretty much sorted. These frames tend to ride really nicely too, obviously not racey whatsoever but nice and comfortable and quite strongly built too, I mean they're gas pipe after all. If you're on a real budget and also not in a huge hurry (either to get the bike or to get down the road on the bike) this is a fine option. Do make sure to avoid French or Swiss bottom brackets, the bottom bracket "standard" wars go back a very long way ...

This is how I did winter bikes for over 20 years. The last one was a Fuji with butted chromoly tubing and forged dropouts, I think I paid less than $50 at a yard sale. Swapped a few parts to make it work for me, 27" wheels to 700c and it was done. It's now my ss townie with fenders and lights. Dings, dirt, etc who cares?

[AngryScientist]

consider finding a nice older steel road bike and doing a 650B conversion.

i just finished one, it cost me next to nothing and rides like a dream.

Edit: for info - the bike below has 38c tires on it. most any road bike designed for 700c wheels will accommodate 650B x 38 without a problem using long reach brakes.

[Ken Robb]

Originally Posted by choke

The OP has a 9sp Sora group so that should be covered.

I'm with you, a simple bar and stem swap fixes what seems to be the biggest stumbling block.

Oh yeah, I forgot that part and when I looked up his bike I saw that it came with mountain brake levers and shifters I thought he would have to buy a set of road parts for his new bars.

[clawhammer]

Thanks everyone, it's all really starting to come together in my mind now—and it looks a lot like that Allez Looks like I need to start watching the local classifieds.

Towards that end, and since I need to get new brakes anyway, is there any reason not to go with long reach over cantilevers? For long reach, it seems like the choice at this price point is between Tektro 559s or Shimano 451s.

I'm mainly worried about max tire width. I've done two gravel rides on my Trek already—one just a couple miles down an incredibly rocky "dirt" road that turned my arms to jelly and gave me a flat, and the other on an alternating sandy/washboarded rail trail/ATV trail (the old railbed to West Yellowstone—gorgeous ride if you're ever in the area). Both rides felt like I wanted more cushioning than the 35mm tires on my trek could provide.

Also, any good source for 650b rimbrake wheels? My go-to wheel source (velomine) only seems to have disk wheels in that size.

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by clawhammer

Towards that end, and since I need to get new brakes anyway, is there any reason not to go with long reach over cantilevers? For long reach, it seems like the choice at this price point is between Tektro 559s or Shimano 451s.

Seems like that question will be answered by what frame you find.

Another way to go is an early '90s MTB with a rigid fork. Put a drop bar on it and some 1.5" tires. This era still had 130 dropouts and the nicer bikes like the Trek aluminums had really light aero rims.

[mhespenheide]

^this, given ^^this.

26" fully-rigid early 90's mountain bike, with fresh tires (like Compass's Rat Trap Pass), adapted to drop bars. Use a 9-speed shimano drivetrain (like your Soar, although I'm not sure it would handle a triple chainring in the front) and travel agent brake adapters for v-brakes. Lots of bikes, frames, wheels, and drivetrain bits available on the used market.

[clawhammer]

Originally Posted by Kontact

Seems like that question will be answered by what frame you find.

... I realized this yesterday morning as I was getting ready for work. Note to self: posting at 11:30 PM is a Bad Idea.

Thanks for the tip on old mountain bikes, I'm definitely finding a lot more of those for sale around here than old steel road bikes. Only problem is finding a 22 incher. Gotta pay the price for being cheap, eh?

[Gummee]

If you can find an mtb with disc mounts, you can stick whatever size wheels in there you want.

700x3Xmm tires should fit where those 26ers went. Possibly even 700x4Xmm tires, but you'll have to try em for fit.

M