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#1
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Assuming compression less housing? That was crucial for me. Trp wants you to set up in a very specific manner, that has worked for me. But yes, I found the lever travel problematic. There is a cable routing hack that shortens the pull. I eventually replaced mine.
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#2
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These brakes aren’t amazing, and you’ll find when the pad wears down approximately 50% you will lose all braking power. Barrel adjusters essentially do nothing. My advice would be to run some trp Spyres. I apologize if I come across as negative and unhelpful, but these brakes are truly awful.
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#3
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Good to know, thank you. I have some avid disc brakes on another bike that are mechanical, using 105 levers, and they work just fine. It sounds like the answer is to get rid of these and I will do so ASAP. Thanks for the advice.
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#4
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#5
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Do you like the Spyres? Have they worked great? What kind of levers are you using?
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#6
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I raced cx for a couple seasons on them. Using sintered pads and compression less housing makes a huge difference
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#7
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You likely need a brake bleed.
The barrel adjuster should only be used for picking up slack in the cable and nothing else. Adding tension to the cable otherwise is depressing the plunger further into the master cylinder of the caliper, preventing the pads from advancing as they wear. |
#8
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what does a brake bleed do on a mechanical system? i totally get it on a hydro system (i used to do same on my moto years ago), but don't understand how that works on a hybrid system with cable actuation.
i'll look into this as well as replace pads. i looked at a trp video and they show how to do all of that. eventually i prefer to keep things simple and will replace with mechanical discs. thanks for all the suggestions/info. Quote:
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#9
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Remember, these are cable actuated, hydraulic calipers. The cable portion of the system only exists to actuate the plunger at the hydraulic caliper. But yes, get some new pads, especially if the ones you have are worn since that'll likely push the pistons back into the caliper. While that should fix some of the sponginess you're experiencing, a brake bleed will very likely be a necessary course of action. These are VERY good brake calipers, but they're often misunderstood for how they're supposed to be set up and maintained, leading to the same problems that you're having. Last edited by mjf; 05-05-2024 at 03:58 PM. |
#10
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got any good pad recommendations?
i ordered a bleed kit. Quote:
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#11
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What does a bleed kit for these look like? I have replaced the fluid in mine: pop off the reservoir top, empty, fill. I don't believe there's any other procedure but happy to be corrected. Ask TRP to send you new silicone bladders.
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#12
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tellyho: this is what i found online in terms of protocol.
i just ordered a bleed kit that said it was compatible with trp. |
#13
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For a tandem? Metal sintered would be my go to in order to deal with the extra weight. They use the generic Shimano B01S pad shape, so options are essentially infinite.
Few options that I like https://trpcycling.com/products/sintered-2-piston https://www.discobrakes.com/?s=0&t=0&c=14&p=100&tb=001 - Whatever composition you feel like. https://mtxbraking.com/product/gold-label-brake-pads/ - Shimano Deore GL111 variation Quote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcZKtFI8Els https://youtu.be/BcZKtFI8Els?t=60 - At roughly here for the next minute the tech discussed how improper usage of the barrel adjuster and push rod, which causes the push rod to enter too far into the master cylinder, causing the timing port to close, and preventing the pads from advancing properly. The is very likely the problem that leftsidedrive has, and shows a very common misunderstanding of relying on the barrel adjuster when trying to use and maintain these calipers. Quote:
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