Threads on Campagnolo Over Torque?

[tuscanyswe]

Removed or rather had a shop use my tools to remove a very stubborn Over Torque crankset.

Now i was about to install again after the winter some 3 months later or so and i find that the threads were damaged. Dident look and ordered a new lock ring.
Get it and install it only to find out that it was the threads on the axle and not in the lock ring that was damaged..

So i am lucky and on ebay i find an exact match with just the drive side (that has the axle) 172.5 mm crank without anything else, perfect! So i buy that.

Then i change everything over to the new drive side arm only to realize this was a compact crank and not a standard which my damaged one was. So now i have no chainrings for it ha! guess i have been to fortunate previously in my life..

So instead of buying new rings in 50/34 for this crank does anyone know if i can "retap" the threads somehow and if so what dimension are these threads?

No shop around here even has the over torque tools so i dont expect anyone to have a tool to rethread the axle.

[m_sasso]

A machine shop with a decent lath operator should be able to fix it up for you, as far as size, barrow or purchase a thread gauge.

[Joxster]

Bin the over torque, and buy an Ultra Torque Chainset. Everything 2018 onwards is UT, don't look at Power Torque, that the devils step child.

[tuscanyswe]

Apart from this episode i quite like over torque. Usually cheap and i got the tools. Work better with my pf30 frame than an ultra torque and adapter (imo that is).

But yeah if the dollars were the same and i could pick a bb standard on my frame, i know what i would pick

[ultraman6970]

Threads in the axle damaged? cant even imagine how that could happen unless the arm was installed wrong from the start.

HAve a couple of questions, the new arm and the old arm can pair fine? asking because for some reason the threads in the old one died you know. Did you test the fit? maybe i got something lost in translation but i do not remember reading about the crank arm bolt being busted aswell...

I was you I would test fit just to rule out a bad crank bolt, if you cant screw that arm in the new arm then obviously the problem you have to fix to start is in the NDS crank arm 1st, and that could explain why the threads are busted in the old DS crankarm.

Assuming all is ok what you could do, is to remove the NDS bolt and then count the threads and use a caliper to figure it out what it is so you could buy a chaser to fix the busted crank arm. Easier to say than do it but is doable (internet is your friend)

THe other option but i never done it in something like yours, is to use thread files, they are files designed to fix threads.

Hope this helps.

[tuscanyswe]

Originally Posted by ultraman6970

Threads in the axle damaged? cant even imagine how that could happen unless the arm was installed wrong from the start.

HAve a couple of questions, the new arm and the old arm can pair fine? asking because for some reason the threads in the old one died you know. Did you test the fit? maybe i got something lost in translation but i do not remember reading about the crank arm bolt being busted aswell...

I was you I would test fit just to rule out a bad crank bolt, if you cant screw that arm in the new arm then obviously the problem you have to fix to start is in the NDS crank arm 1st, and that could explain why the threads are busted in the old DS crankarm.

Assuming all is ok what you could do, is to remove the NDS bolt and then count the threads and use a caliper to figure it out what it is so you could buy a chaser to fix the busted crank arm. Easier to say than do it but is doable (internet is your friend)

THe other option but i never done it in something like yours, is to use thread files, they are files designed to fix threads.

Hope this helps.

This is the over torque system with 30mm axles. It does not have a bolt. Only one axle to the other side than the other arm goes on to the axles and the lock ring next that keeps it together.

[tuscanyswe]

Originally Posted by m_sasso

A machine shop with a decent lath operator should be able to fix it up for you, as far as size, barrow or purchase a thread gauge.

Forgive my ignorance but would a decent lath operator fix this without knowing the pitch etc?

[m_sasso]

Lath operators cut threads in all different kinds of shafts routinely, as a machinist they are more than likely have a thread pitch gauge. A lath operator could also reverse engineer the process by putting the Over Torque shaft into the lath and adjusting the lath to match the current remaining threads without knowing the actual thread gauge before hand.

Almost all modern laths have auto feeds that are capable of turning and feeding a shaft against a cutting tool to create any size thread required. Almost like having a universal thread die!

Even if you knew the thread pitch and told the machinist before hand, if they are worth their salt they are never going to do any cutting before they measure everything to their satisfaction of getting the specific job correct.

[tuscanyswe]

Thanks.

I want one. Well Both a good operator and the machine i guess.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by Joxster

Bin the over torque, and buy an Ultra Torque Chainset. Everything 2018 onwards is UT, don't look at Power Torque, that the devils step child.

My aunt matilda's mustache. Have you ever used, seen, worked on one?

Yes, initially not many LH crank arm pulling tools, then not hard to find at all..Easy to find cups, all types including BB30, PFBB30, English, far superior Italian threading. I have had Athena PowerTorque on my Merckx since Feb 2014..I check it often and still smooth as butter...BTW...7mm bearing, like shimano...not the fairly weird and non standard 6mm of UT..