Sram 10-33 or 10-36? Your opinion is appreciated

[bianchi10]

Hey all. Looking to see if I can gather some opinions here. If there is one thing I don't have much knowledge in, it is gearing ratios. I have basically been riding similar gearing since I started, therefor my lack of experience has me wondering which direction I should go here.

Current set up:
Sram Etap HRD (11spd)
50/34 chainring and 11-30 cassette
SLF OSPW

I just bought a used AXS Red groupset and am trying to decide which combination will help me. I do not have MASSIVE climbs here. However, if there is one thing I dislike most, it's climbing. I can get along just fine with my current gearing, but I wouldn't mind having a ration that made climbing just a little easier and have that higher gear option, should I feel the desire to use it. I'm not racing or needing to prioritize top end speed. Just want a good balance.

My thoughts: (The RD I got has the max 36T BTW
48/35 chainring and pairing that with the Sram Red 10-33 or even the Force 10-36.

I've been told from a friend that I most likely wouldn't notice much of a difference with a 10-33, but that combination would be the best of both worlds. I've done some reading and one thing that truly stands out are the comments that mention how much a God send the 10-36 on the way home after a long ride and you're fatigued. Don't have to use the 36, but it's there if you need.

Most people will not see eye to eye with one of my thoughts here, but once you become a weight weenie, it is very difficult to shut it off. My new build will be weight conscious (SL8 Sworks Tarmac). It will be a priority, but that doesn't mean it is the most important. The difference between a Red 10-33 and a Force 10-36 is 65g. Again, it may not be a big deal to some/most of you, but it is something I will at least think about.

SO, to those of you with more experience with gear ratio's, I would be keen to hear your feedback as to which you think may be a good choice, given the information I've given and what I'm trying to achieve.

Appreciate your thoughts!

[Bob Ross]

Check out this site:

https://www.sram.com/en/life/stories/x-range-gearing

...where SRAM tries to show you which of their current gear range offerings correspond to whatever you're used to.

E.g., if you're currently riding 50/34 chainrings with an 11-30 cassette, they suggest their 46/33 chainrings and 10-33 cassette will yield a similar -- albeit with a wider range -- experience.

[kppolich]

With the 48/35 I'd go with the 10-33 out back. Less gear jumps while still almost a 1:1 bail out gear.

Play around here to do some comparisons and find what gear inches you are typically working with on your current climbs.
https://www.kstoerz.com/gearcalc/compare/

10-33t;10,11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28,33

10-36t:10,11,12,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36


Front chainrings from SRAM also come in a 50/37 if you are looking for more top end, then jumping to a 10-36 (which is now also availble in the new RED) would be a even larger range, but then you have bigger gear jumps while still having a near 1:1 bail out.

[bianchi10]

Originally Posted by kppolich

With the 48/35 I'd go with the 10-33 out back. Less gear jumps while still almost a 1:1 bail out gear.

Play around here to do some comparisons and find what gear inches you are typically working with on your current climbs.
https://www.kstoerz.com/gearcalc/compare/

10-33t;10,11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,28,33

10-36t:10,11,12,13,15,17,19,21,24,28,32,36


Front chainrings from SRAM also come in a 50/37 if you are looking for more top end, then jumping to a 10-36 (which is now also availble in the new RED) would be a even larger range, but then you have bigger gear jumps while still having a near 1:1 bail out.

Isn't the new Sram red 10-36 only available for the newer E1 Sram groupset? I didn't see any 10-36 with an option for Red on the Sram website. Only force

[kppolich]

Originally Posted by bianchi10

Isn't the new Sram red 10-36 only available for the newer E1 Sram groupset? I didn't see any 10-36 with an option for Red on the Sram website. Only force

No difference in cassette between D1 and E1 besides the new gearing and a little different carrier supposedly. Both 12sp flat top chain compatible.

https://powermetercity.com/product/s...I9OAe7wIQ84xyJ

[ltwtsculler91]

I would go 10-33 all day over the 36. My experience is that you’ll likely miss the 14t more than you’ll want the 36t on the steep stuff. I have 50/37 and 10-33 on my AXS road bikes and went 46/33 and 10-33 on my “allroad” gravel bike. The 46t does really surprise me for how nice it feels at speed vs the 50s I’m used to on my other AXS and 11 speed bikes.

If you’re not looking to race or be at the pointy end of the really fast group but still want the 1-1 bailout, then I’d downsize the rings over upsizing the cassette.

Also on the weight side, all AXS 12 speed cassettes are interoperable. I have an E1 Cassette on my otherwise D1 bike, and run the D1 Red cassette on my rival bike

[kytyree]

Originally Posted by ltwtsculler91

I would go 10-33 all day over the 36. My experience is that you’ll likely miss the 14t more than you’ll want the 36t on the steep stuff. I have 50/37 and 10-33 on my AXS road bikes and went 46/33 and 10-33 on my “allroad” gravel bike. The 46t does really surprise me for how nice it feels at speed vs the 50s I’m used to on my other AXS and 11 speed bikes.

If you’re not looking to race or be at the pointy end of the really fast group but still want the 1-1 bailout, then I’d downsize the rings over upsizing the cassette.

Also on the weight side, all AXS 12 speed cassettes are interoperable. I have an E1 Cassette on my otherwise D1 bike, and run the D1 Red cassette on my rival bike

I've got a 10/33 on my road bike and thought I might use the force 10/36 I've got on another bike if I didn't like it but after riding it a few months I agree the 33 is the way to go.

I also agree with the other idea about going with 10/33 and looking at the chainrings to get the ratio you want. The 10/33 to me hits the sweetspot of having some range and decent jumps in the middle. Then you match the chainrings to get a good chain line in the big ring most of the time and enough of a bailout gear when it's steep.

[gospastic]

I ran into you the other day on the Cemetery climb, so I'm local and ride the same roads you do. I'd do 10-33 for sure, especially with a 48/35 up front. Losing the 16t is one thing but losing the 14t on the 10-36 would be really tough to get used to. 35x33 is nearly 1:1 which is sufficient for most stuff around here on a road bike especially if you're not seeking out the really steep climbs. I currently run a 10-30 with 50/37 but have a 10-33 that I might put on in the future since the majority of the cassette is the same as the 10-30.

[bianchi10]

Originally Posted by gospastic

I ran into you the other day on the Cemetery climb, so I'm local and ride the same roads you do. I'd do 10-33 for sure, especially with a 48/35 up front. Losing the 16t is one thing but losing the 14t on the 10-36 would be really tough to get used to. 35x33 is nearly 1:1 which is sufficient for most stuff around here on a road bike especially if you're not seeking out the really steep climbs. I currently run a 10-30 with 50/37 but have a 10-33 that I might put on in the future since the majority of the cassette is the same as the 10-30.

Cheers dude! Was good to run into you on the ride. Sorry I couldn't stay out longer with the group.

I appreciate you're feedback. Thank you

[bianchi10]

Originally Posted by kytyree

I've got a 10/33 on my road bike and thought I might use the force 10/36 I've got on another bike if I didn't like it but after riding it a few months I agree the 33 is the way to go.

I also agree with the other idea about going with 10/33 and looking at the chainrings to get the ratio you want. The 10/33 to me hits the sweetspot of having some range and decent jumps in the middle. Then you match the chainrings to get a good chain line in the big ring most of the time and enough of a bailout gear when it's steep.

Ok thank you for the input!

[bianchi10]

Originally Posted by ltwtsculler91

I would go 10-33 all day over the 36. My experience is that you’ll likely miss the 14t more than you’ll want the 36t on the steep stuff. I have 50/37 and 10-33 on my AXS road bikes and went 46/33 and 10-33 on my “allroad” gravel bike. The 46t does really surprise me for how nice it feels at speed vs the 50s I’m used to on my other AXS and 11 speed bikes.

If you’re not looking to race or be at the pointy end of the really fast group but still want the 1-1 bailout, then I’d downsize the rings over upsizing the cassette.

Also on the weight side, all AXS 12 speed cassettes are interoperable. I have an E1 Cassette on my otherwise D1 bike, and run the D1 Red cassette on my rival bike

Appreciate you taking the time to give your input!

[Hakkalugi]

I have the 10-36 and love it. Granted, on some climbs I’ve been mistaken for a statue, but overall, having that serious bail out has been awesome and has made my day more enjoyable.

For context, every ride from my house starts with a really fun descent down the driveway. Sadly, each ride also ends with a climb up said driveway. It’s only .6 miles, but it gains 450’, with the steepest part around 22% and the recovery section at a relaxing 8%. My son does it in just under 5 minutes; I got under 10 once but chatted with several ancestors and a tie-dyed lemur on the way up. I don’t think I’ll ever repeat that experience.

[huck*this]

I will echo what others said. Stick with a 10-33 and lower rings if needed. I also run a 50/37 with a 10-33 and regularly climb 15% grades with no issues or fumbling of gears trying to find a lower one. I do have a bike incoming with a 46/33 that will be interesting to try out, also paired with a 10-33.

Do you measure cadence on your current setup, how does that look?


Congrats on the new SL8!

[Dave]

No one commenting has a clue about the terrain that you ride or your power to weight ratio. Riding in Colorado, I've used a 48/31 GRX crank with the 10-33. It's nice to have the 14, but the 28-33 shift sucks. I really needed lower gearing and used a 46/30 crank with a 10-36 for several years. It was great for 10% grades, but still tough for 12-13%

This isn't that difficult to figure out. The 10-36 gives you 9% lower gearing. Do you need it or not?

[XXtwindad]

I have really big climbs where I live and I weigh 200 lbs. My Crux has a 48/35 and a 10-33 in back and it works great.