#16
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Yes, I love this idea! :-) a nice 5 star would be awesome!!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#17
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https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273984808960
Thoughts???? It’s the right length TT, but a bit over budget, but then again...... it is made by a local legend and those wheels sure are pretty..... mmmmmm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#18
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Pretty damn nice if its the right size. If you bought and treated it right it would NOT lose resale value. Ask Dazza if he's still got info/build sheet for it. Or find member Llewellyn here for a testimonial. He's in Perth but usually around with a good word. PS: that's my size.
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'Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer.' -- W. C. Fields |
#19
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I think you should buy this and be done with it! It's absolutely beautiful.
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#20
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Gibbo, I think you can find really nice Vintage track stuff in australia, track was and probably still big there. And the best thing, probably way better than a brand new chromed bianchi pista.
U guys had many really good builder. Just ask in the velodromes, sure somebody has something hanging around in a shed. |
#21
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Track bike advice
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Thanks for that, I do love a good used bike so I will ask at the track and keep my eye on that Llewellyn as well. I sent Dazza a DM regarding the bike so hopefully he sees it and gets back. I really would like to learn more about it. Last edited by gibbo; 07-31-2020 at 10:36 PM. |
#22
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If you're looking to get on the boards - and yes, get on those boards! - then do it with ANY TRACK BIKE. A lot of tracks have loaners for intro classes - at least that's how it is in the states, not sure if it's the same in australia. That LLewelyn is lovely for sure but if you're looking to race and if you have some racing experience, then you might be more at home on a more modern bike. So many companies make decent track bikes that are prices as entry-level bikes - an alu frame with a carbon fork is likely to be stiff and reasonably aerodynamic (look one that's marketed as a track racing bike rather than as a city bike for the masses). One example is the Specialized Langster Pro - it's like a $500 frameset, or something, but I raced it up to UCI level. And, I know people a far cry faster than me who raced on $400 ebay frames. Any of these affordable bikes are a platform for buying the stuff that matters - a couple different chainrings and cogs, faster wheels if you want, and handlebars that you're comfortable with (a lot of off-the-shelf track bikes come with very deep traditional track drops in 42cm, which are too wide and deep for most racers). Any of those frames would be a great starter bike - if you find that it works for you, it will suit you for a long time. Or, it will provide you with a decent platform to gain some experience while you learn what bike you'd prefer. |
#23
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I'm a functional rider. My equipment may not be sexy or stylish but it works in a workingman's class way.
My steel frame works fine in terms of holding the different parts of the bike together. But there's no benefit to buying a steel track frame for racing, if you're racing, versus an aluminum or carbon frame. Again, generally speaking. Steel frames are going to be heavier and more flexible. Functionally not really ideal, at least if you're racing. For me, if I was going to spend, say, $500 on a track bike, I'd try and get an aluminum one. For unlimited/higher funds, a carbon one. An aluminum frame will be lighter and probably stiffer. A carbon frame will be lighter and probably stiffer. Ride really doesn't matter on a track bike, which is the one big perceived benefit on a steel frame. The only reason I raced my steel frame is that it was basically free. If I fit I'd have bought a Jamis Sonik or the entry level Fuji track bike. Some aluminum simple thing. Throw on a nice rear track wheel (disc or very tall carbon tubular rim), put a "non-quick-release" skewer through a good front wheel (tall carbon tubular rim off a road bike) and you have a pretty killer race bike for a budget price. |
#24
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__________________
It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got that certain je ne sais quoi. --Peter Schickele |
#25
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Another aspect of flex is handling at high speeds on steep bankings. For the same reason that we inflate our tires way higher than we do on the road, we want bikes that don't compress in tight turns. I've ridden loaner bikes around small tracks - cigar-shaped ones where there's a tighter turn-radius - and the squish in the corner is evident and unsettling. |
#26
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__________________
Forgive me for posting dumb stuff. Chris Little Rock, AR |
#27
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A free steel frame? Great! Paying similar money for a steel vs aluminum? Not as great. Getting a good used track bike/frame, bang for buck, aluminum. Weight really doesn't matter because the range is so small (+/- 4 pounds for frame? maybe 6 pounds for bike) but it's better, for the same dollars, to carry less if the stiffness is the same. In fact I sacrifice weight for fit, so I'm running about 2.5-3x weight in the stem, about 2-2.5x weight in the saddle, but that's because the ones I'm running fit me. As far as stiffness goes, again, for the higher power track events, more is better, and bang for buck, aluminum. So bang for buck, aluminum. Minimum track bike prices are in the $500-800 range, and if the OP can get an aluminum framed bike, that's what I'd get. Remember, I'm the one with the steel track frame. Essentially it was free for me, as I've owned it for 30 years. Did I race it? Yes. Was it fine? Well, yes, at the totally grassroots level racing I did. But if someone were to ask me if my bike was as good as an aluminum one? Admittedly no, not at a similar price. |
#28
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I am no massive power monster, 15s power of 1000 - 1100 w is my peak. I was wondering if wheels would make more difference than frame material?
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#29
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Nor I, so neither of us are Sean Eadie or Ryan Bailey. My experience is limited, but good tracking (doh!) is what's needed in a track bike.
I'd go stiffness over wheelsets firstly, then look at deep fairing carbon wheels 'n all that stuff, because you want a frame which is not going to whip or buck into the turns, especially on steep banked boards. Then again, I had to retire a front wheel (very low profile Araya rim) because it was an excellent road wheel, but on the track had too much flex and spent more time shifting the bike off line rather than following a line. Agree with Carpediem... bang for buck it's aluminium.
__________________
'Everybody's got to believe in something. I believe I'll have another beer.' -- W. C. Fields |
#30
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But yes, since average speeds in track racing tend to be higher than comparable road racing, fast wheels will absolutely make a difference. Again, they don't need to be fancy - my spouse raced UCI and Nat'l Championship events on a set of $400 china carbon ebay wheels. They had a channel for the tire seam, offset spoke holes, bladed spokes, and basic sb hubs. Pretty good for the money - anything better would have been twice as much at least. |
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