#61
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All 12 speed cassettes are straight block from 11-17. The 18-19 is an odd-ball, where the percentage difference is so small, that it's been eliminated from most cassettes from all brands. If your terrain is so flat that you think the 18 has value, then you probably don't need 12 speeds. Currently, you can get an 18T with an 11-23 or 12-25 11 speed cassette, so what you're saying is you want an 11-25 or 12-27 12 speed cassette. Most complaints like yours overlook a solution that involves a change in the chain rings, unless you also need a 53/11 top gear, then an 11-25 is the answer. The percentage of change at the 18-19 shift if far smaller than the 12-13 shift. At some point, steeper terrain requires a larger percentage difference between the sprockets, not smaller. Last edited by Dave; 09-03-2019 at 09:30 AM. |
#62
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I guess I'm out of touch too, the electronic groups and the new odd crank/ring setups have no appeal to me at all. Shifting is mostly a non-issue and I feel no need to add thousands of dollars of cost to a bike just to add more complexity and save that tiny amount of physical effort to push the shift lever.
I do look forward to the day I need a new gravel-y bike and will get hydraulic discs. I have TRP Mini-Vs right now and they're mostly OK but I feel like I have to adjust them pretty frequently as the pads wear and they prevent me from having a fat tire wheelset & a skinny tire wheelset as my particular bike only likes really wide rims. I can put up with 50/34, barely. Otherwise I am totally down with the idea that a triple would be better in 99% of the cases over all these oddball new setups. Better chainline, don't need heavy pie plate cassettes that wear out fast, don't need clutch derailleurs, etc.. The best feature they could add for me would be extended wear on the chain/cassette/rings. Electronic shifting has no effect on that but all the other "advancements" the last 10-15 years have all come at the cost of more expensive consumable parts that wear out faster. Parts that wear out faster mean more money down the drain and either more weekend afternoons wasted working on my bike or more frequent hassle getting the LBS to do it. AFAICT 9-speed cluster in the back is still WAY better than 10 speed and 10 speed is a good bit better than 11 & 12 when it comes to wear resistance. I still have 9-speed on my MTB and it's got ridiculous miles on it compared to any 10-speed I've owned. Thicker cogs, thicker rings, thicker chain. Better wear all around. The MTB takes way more abuse too.. ride it through the mud and salt and don't even bother to clean it. Last edited by benb; 09-03-2019 at 09:12 AM. |
#63
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And I disagree that steeper terrain requires larger percentage difference between chainring sizes. The change in cadence and leg force is the same with a given percent difference in gear size, regardless of how steep the terrain is. My legs prefer an 8-10% difference between gears across the entire cassette, and I'm frustrated by the tendency for cassettes to be designed with small percent jumps between the smaller sprockets, and percent large jumps between larger sprockets. |
#64
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Or $1100 would build some really nice wheels and have money left for tires.
__________________
Cuero - Fine leather cycling gloves - GET SOME |
#65
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Weisan - I'm with you. I'm content riding the older stuff. I have only one bike with the first gen Campy 11 speed. I remember lusting over the latest and greatest 15 years ago (Colnago C50, Campy Record Carbon 10, Carbon wheels yowza!) but the new stuff now really doesn't light me up. Show me a hand made steel bike with chrome lugs though ... |
#66
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New Campag 10sp cables
Arthritis might be a reason, yes for E! Until then....
FWIW, just changed my cables back to Campag cables on my Merckx with Record 10sp gruppo WOW, crisp butter shifts, great feedback, lovely would never need better! Then went for a ride on my MOOTS RSL with 2018 Record 11sp I bought new, and prefer 10sp shifting for feedback (I’m old)... This a great thread, the etap stuff is overwhelming, I would like to try it, but its overwhelming.... This is a great thread....did I already say that? > old... Quote:
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#67
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I suppose that different people have different needs when it comes to cog spacing, but if the current 11-29 cassette has too large of jumps between the larger cogs, tell us what would be better.
If the 29 isn't low enough, then the contention is that a 46/30 or similar crank is needed. That's not enough top gear for me. I've been riding the 11-34 for several weeks now. I have no complaints about the jumps between the cogs. My current routes have some grades of at least 12%. Slopes are not the same for very long, so my cadence may vary by 10 rpm, with no change in the gear I'm using. If the slope is that steep, I'm using the 34 sprocket until it lets up and I can use the 29. |
#68
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I think I have a 50/34 with a 12-32 on my Space Horse IIRC. It might be a 11-34 though.
I bought that for towing a trailer. That's a bike that weighs 27lbs and I was towing something like 80lbs with it. That cassette block is super annoying to me in normal road riding. I take off from a stop light and I'm skipping 3 cogs at a time and then riding the 50 ring 90% of the time even when I'm out of shape. On a go fast road bike intended for paved roads I can't see anything that low or lower making any sense. A 14-15lb carbon super bike with a 50/34 + 11-34 is nuts to me. That combo lets you go 6mph without having to get out of the saddle, that's a Mt. Washington hillclimb setup. |
#69
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#70
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Who would even think that a 15 lb super bike should have such gearing? It's perfectly appropriate for old riders, beginners and old guys who ride steeply sloped routes, like me. When you take off from a stop sign, you must be in the wrong gear to start with. It has the same gear ratios available as any other. |
#71
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If I start in anything like the first 3 gears I will get clipped in and within 1-2 seconds I'll upshift 3 gears. I'll pedal a few more times, then upshift 2-3 more cogs. I could probably stop & start in the big ring.. but I'd be cross chained starting from a stop. Again this is a weird example, those low gears are useful offroad or carrying a load. There are all kinds of these super bike type things which don't offer any stock configurations with a 53/39 and we've got SRAM pushing rings even smaller than 50/34 and they're not marketing it for old guys and people towing trailers and touring and such. Nobody needs a $2k electronic shifting groupset for those kinds of uses. |
#72
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I prefer fairly close spacing between gear ratios, so it is not uncommon that I shift 2, or sometimes 3, sprockets at a time (and often for several times) when rapidly accelerating from a stop. But that's not much of an issue with Campagnolo Ultra shifters, which allow multiple sprocket upshifts (2, 3, 4 or 5 sprockets at a time) with a single push of a lever. |
#73
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When using a wide range cassette on flat terrain, I'll often not bother changing to the small chainring when coming to a stop. It hasn't been a problem. |
#74
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#75
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the sram AXS has a 46/33 - 10/33 that to me seems the perfect balance of road gearing and gravel gearing.
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