Advice: Campy BB 'clicking' sound

[rst72]

Originally Posted by rousseau

In my experience this is a clear case of needing to replace the bearings on the crankset.

This.

[Hindmost]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

- Not sure exact vintage, it's white label SR and I think it's ~2010 (paging Clean39T)

2010? humm... The current EPS compatible record (silver with a green tint) or super record (black) cups should be considered. There were subtle dimensional changes made over the years.

[cgolvin]

Originally Posted by Hindmost

2010? humm... The current EPS compatible record (silver with a green tint) or super record (black) cups should be considered. There were subtle dimensional changes made over the years.

Thanks.

Best practice to replace c-clip and wave washer along with new cups, or can I re-use them?

[choke]

You might want to check to see if the chainring bolts are tight.

[Calnago]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Thanks all. Yet another opportunity to express my love of Paceline. Condensing responses…



- Yes, my shoes have laces but they are well secured.

- I first noticed this last week on my standard wheels, recurred yesterday while testing some carbon tubulars. However, I used the same QR in both cases so will double check tightness.

- Installation is about 6 months old but the groupset was used (bought here) and I don't know the mileage at purchase.

- Not sure exact vintage, it's white label SR and I think it's ~2010 (paging Clean39T).



I just took Calnago's advice and I am, indeed, able to compress the non-drive side and produce a noise that does sound very similar to what I'm hearing. However, and I should have said this originally, I don't have a big torque wrench so when installing I simply gave it full gas and hoped to get in the vicinity of 45nm. So…



Before disassembling to check the cups, should I first ensure that the cranks are adequately torqued? Or should I go ahead and take it apart?

Disassemble them to check the cups at least. At a minimum it will give you an opportunity to apply grease. More torque isn’t going to stop the clicking if it’s from what I’m thinking. By the way, you should be able to do this on a brand new install as well if the cups are aligned and well greased. The difference will be in how worn the cups are. There is still that 0.2mm of clearance between the drive side bearing and the clip. I just suggested doing that to see if it was the same “click” that you’re hearing. If it sounds the same, then proceed to disassemble. Replace the cups if the anodoization is worn off anywhere and reassemble. The cups to the bottom bracket should be 35Nm (pretty tight if using your “I’m a lumberjack and I’m ok” scale of torque. The hirth bolt of 50Nm is pretty close to your “Full Gas” gauge.
The white label SR cranks are first generation 2009-2010. They had the separate male/female chainring bolts.

[Hindmost]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Thanks.

Best practice to replace c-clip and wave washer along with new cups, or can I re-use them?

If you purchase new cups they come with the clip and spring washer.

[BobC]

Check RD pulleys. A cracked pulley will click (ask me how I know).

Good luck.

[Calnago]

Just get the current Super Record cups. As was said, they will come with a new C-clip and wavy washer. Shouldn’t cost more than. $30-$40. The Cult bearings on the other hand... small fortune relatively speaking.

[Mzilliox]

looking forward to what fixes it. Im currently having a sound similar, only when i stop pedalling it continues, so i think i can rule out BB and crank. when i go faster it seems to get worse.

My guess is something in the rear hub or QR. Im about to go put it on the stand and see if i can tell. ill report back as to what i find. please let us know if and how you fix yours...

[Black Dog]

Originally Posted by Hindmost

What vintage are your bb cups? Early versions were prone to noise-making.

This is true. The newer greenish cups eliminated the BB clicking syndrome that some people (myself included) were having on english BBs. A second wavy washer can also solve the problem if there is room for one. Better solution is replace the old style cups with the newer style greenish tinted ones.

[thwart]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Ride bike without Cycling shoes(same pedals)
Swap pedals
Swap rear wheel
Grease QRs
Then open BB

This.

I had a out-of-the-saddle click that I swore was coming from the BB. Titanium frame.

Wrong. Switched wheels and tightened the QR more. Nope, still there... then lubed the internal dropout/hub interface... poof, gone.

Of course this was after changing out the UT crank and BB... to no avail.

[longlist]

I have a noise that was from my seatpost. It was the bolt that holds the seat on the post. Everyone thought it was the bottom bracket.

[pdmtong]

the similar scenario for me was isolated to the cups...new ones solved the clicking when climbing out of the saddle.

[rustychisel]

I had a 'ping' many years ago (& guessing this is not your situation)...

turns out it was the metal zipper tab on my winter jersey.

[marciero]

Originally Posted by Mzilliox

looking forward to what fixes it. Im currently having a sound similar, only when i stop pedalling it continues, so i think i can rule out BB and crank. when i go faster it seems to get worse.

Is it wheel-rotation frequency? Can you narrow it down to one wheel? Still do it when you, eg, unweight the wheel? If it's not coming from a spoke (in which case a little oil on nipple or where it crosses other spoke could fix it) it might be the valve stem moving and clicking against the side of the valve hole. I had this happen once on a tubular tire. At least I think that is what it was. A little electrical tape fixed it. Or I should say it seems to have gone away. If it's a threaded valve stem I would thing a stem nut would at least diagnose the problem.

Nothing to offer the OP, but there is a long thread somewhere on Paceline with lots of potential causes.