#16
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Quote:
__________________
***IG: mttamgrams*** |
#17
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Disc brakes (hydraulic, none of that cable stuff) offer really nice modulation I have to say. Also you can brake effortless. Not needed in a road bike but I am warming up to them. If you ride a lot of of hills they are better but again, not needed. I think a good pad and rim goes a long way.
With carbon wheels though, I say discs rule there. Same with rain. |
#18
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A good note to take into consideration when setting up the rear brake. The brake hose/line needs to be shorter than a traditional caliper brake. That is a good place to start. The extension of the arm is everything with the ee brakes. And with the arm being longer the hose needs to be shorter. Not too bad to setup but definitely needs more attention then traditional brakes "IF" reusing the same brake cable. Running new cables easy peezy.
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#19
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Thanks for all of the info. The bike goes into the shop today.
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#20
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Was the shop able to set them up to provide you satisfactory braking?
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#21
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I just set up my first pair of EE brakes. They're definitely different, but went together fine and the braking is fantastic. No complaints at all.
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#22
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Quote:
So you're doing intervals and you're honking at 30mph and a car pulls out in front of you. Great time to have brakes that stop really well and are really tolerant of cable wear and/or adjustment and are super easy to setup. The consistently easy setup & great performance/maintenance qualities of the Shimano/Campy brakes are a safety factor. 60/120g of weight savings doesn't matter in any of those situations. These sound like something you care about when you're in the hunt to win Mt. Washington or Mt. Evans and you've already got that 400w FTP & look like you just escaped from a prison camp in N. Korea and the race isn't sanctioned so you're trying to show up with a 10-12lb bike at no cost prepared. And then you don't care about the performance as much or the need to change the cables more frequently, cause you only ride that bike for the hillclimbs and you've removed the rear caliper & cable to save weight anyway and then cut off the drops ala Phil Gaimon. All hypothetical here cause I didn't see if you were trying to get these, just in general. Since the Cane Creek website is a mess how much do these actually cost? The closest I could find is $300/caliper or so? And actually, is that even that expensive? How many MTB guys have a set of brakes/levers that cost that much for braking performance? Is it wrong to spend $600 on weight savings but not for braking performance? I guess the difference is you don't have to be at the razors edge of fitness to actually get a benefit out of the MTB brakes. Last edited by benb; 04-18-2018 at 01:26 PM. |
#23
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This place is pedantic.
1) They look cool. 2) They weigh nothing. 3) They look cool. And they stop about as well as a pair of comparable SRAM or Campy brakes. Hella expensive, but people have spent a lot more money to look cool. Disclaimer: I own a set. They look ****ing cool. Girls ask me questions about them at stoplights. They go well with my Supreme hat collection and Supreme Rimowa roller. When you buy a pair, there's a QR code that comes in the box for a blue check on IG and Twitter. You should probably get a set. But not the gold ones. Anything but the gold ones. |
#24
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I find them equal to or better than Shimano. Yes, I agree that setup is critical: proper cable/housing length and pads set with toe-in.
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#25
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Yes it is.
For those interested, they just put out a press release about updated EE Brakes. A little wider, maybe a little lighter (maybe not) a bit more metal, some T25 fittings instead of hex, and maybe a bit easier to adjust? |
#26
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huh, all this angst.
My experience: Bought on sale from somewhere for around 5 bills for the set. I took the brakes out of the box. Read the instructions (which could have been a bit clearer), bolted them on, attached the cable (watched a you tube video to make sure I had the routing down); installed pads, toed in, centered and went for a ride. The bike stopped when I pulled the levers. Felt a bit different than campy and sram and shimano, but they do what brakes are supposed to do. So what is better braking? I haven't bothered measuring or timing an emergency full on grab the brakes and squeeze event so dan't say if ultimate stopping distance is different. Perhaps there's a you tube video on that somewhere. Modulation is different than with the other big 3. Is that better or worse, I dunno, I tend to adjust to adapt to whatever I'm riding. Changing pads is about 3.78 seconds less per pad than other brakes since you don't have to deal with a set screw. Clearance for 28s is pretty good. They're lighter on the bike and lighten up your wallet and either look cool or hideous depending on what you think looks cool or hideous. I haven't sold the red brakes that they replaced so maybe I'm hedging. Or maybe just lazy. Probably the latter. |
#27
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and I thought it was because of your thick hair.
__________________
***IG: mttamgrams*** |
#28
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He can barely get a comb through it.
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#29
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hah hah hah hah hah
I have the gold ones. And gold teeth to match. Quote:
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#30
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baller!
__________________
***IG: mttamgrams*** |
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