Sourcing Campy 10 and 11 speed Brake Pads

[spinarelli]

I wonder what your total cost will be once shipping and customs get added on. My only purchase from Merlin came with a big surprise from the delivery man. It made it not worth the purchase. Let us know if you get hit with any brokerage or handling fees.

Originally Posted by Veloo

Have you called Marinoni? I believe they are the Canandian disty.
Maybe La Bicicletta hee in Toronto?

I just posted this last night:
https://www.merlincycles.com/swissst...ds-111795.html

I've used the GHP2 when I was riding on Ultegra and they were way better than the stock pads.

Haven't swapped out the pads on my Athena brakes yet but will when these arrive.

[oldpotatoe]

$115 plus shipping but holders/pads, not bolts or spacers(use old ones)? Set of 4...

[Mzilliox]

I have never ever ever had trouble pulling campy pads. there is no possible way i could switch holder and pad faster than simply swapping pads, which i do all the time because i have aluminum, carbon and exalith wheels.

those screws are useless, do people really use them?

needlenose plier, pull pad, needlenose plier, push pad, done.

no allen wrenches, no aligning holders, Im obviously missing something.

[cgolvin]

Having read the comment above about using a screwdriver (and watched the Campy video demonstrating) I completely agree that switching pads is simple and quick.

Now, how do I adjust the toe-in on pre-2011 calipers? A commenter elsewhere said it is controlled by the orientation of the washer that sits between the shoe and the caliper, but that doesn't seem right to me.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Having read the comment above about using a screwdriver (and watched the Campy video demonstrating) I completely agree that switching pads is simple and quick.

Now, how do I adjust the toe-in on pre-2011 calipers? A commenter elsewhere said it is controlled by the orientation of the washer that sits between the shoe and the caliper, but that doesn't seem right to me.

The ‘post’ in the holder that the nut attaches to is orbital so adjust like normal. The spacer is conical also.

[Black Dog]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Having read the comment above about using a screwdriver (and watched the Campy video demonstrating) I completely agree that switching pads is simple and quick.

Now, how do I adjust the toe-in on pre-2011 calipers? A commenter elsewhere said it is controlled by the orientation of the washer that sits between the shoe and the caliper, but that doesn't seem right to me.

The washers are conical and the pads easy to set up. Loosen the bolt a fair amount, squeeze the brake with a piece of thin card board under the rear facing end of the pad. Align the pad and tighten. It can help if you have someone squeeze the brake lever for you. The key os to start with everything loose. The holder should be moving very freely when you start, this will allow the washers to slide over each other and not bind. Now, with everything I said, some of the lower end campy holders did not come with conical washers, but this was the exception and not the rule. What callipers are you using?

[cgolvin]

Originally Posted by Black Dog

The washers are conical and the pads easy to set up. Loosen the bolt a fair amount, squeeze the brake with a piece of thin card board under the rear facing end of the pad. Align the pad and tighten. It can help if you have someone squeeze the brake lever for you. The key os to start with everything loose. The holder should be moving very freely when you start, this will allow the washers to slide over each other and not bind. No with everything I said, some of the lower end campy holders did not come with conical washers, but this was the exception and not the rule. What callipers are you using?

Thanks, will give that approach a try. The calipers are pre-2011 Record (single pivot rear).

[Veloo]

I've wondered about the screws as well but then recalled the one time I was in a rush and either putting on my pumped up wheel from my Shimano canti brake cross bike. One pad ended up being pulled up and out of the holder cuz the tire pushed against it and I guess there was a bit too much air in it.
Maybe the screw is there to prevent something like this? Even though a road tire doesn't quite have the flared out profile of a cross tire, perhaps it's for that extra bit of safety factor?

Originally Posted by Mzilliox

I have never ever ever had trouble pulling campy pads. there is no possible way i could switch holder and pad faster than simply swapping pads, which i do all the time because i have aluminum, carbon and exalith wheels.

those screws are useless, do people really use them?

needlenose plier, pull pad, needlenose plier, push pad, done.

no allen wrenches, no aligning holders, Im obviously missing something.

[Black Dog]

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Thanks, will give that approach a try. The calipers are pre-2011 Record (single pivot rear).

These have the conical washers. You are good to go.

[Veloo]

Pads arrived today via Canada Post. No fees. 9 days to arrive.

Originally Posted by spinarelli

I wonder what your total cost will be once shipping and customs get added on. My only purchase from Merlin came with a big surprise from the delivery man. It made it not worth the purchase. Let us know if you get hit with any brokerage or handling fees.

[Veloo]

The Swiss Stops are about 1.5 mm shorter than the OEM Campy pads.

[tylercheung]

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

Swapping pads on campy brakes is the worst. They are always so stuck in there and very hard to come out (I guess its a good thing, in a way). Shimano pads is much better, they are not so tight and use that little screw.

I like the cheaper campy brakes now since they use shimano pads and holders.. Campy should stop doing their own pads really.


OR they should take a cue from EE brakes, their holders are the BEST and easiest to remove pads I have ever used. You just grab the pad, lift. Put new pad in, 1 minute and done.

I just replaced older Centaur 10s ones... you apparently have to grab the old ones and forcefully yank them out w/ pliers. Then I was whacking the new ones into place w/ a hammer for like 30 minutes a pad.....

The newer ones have the little release clasp? I hope they are easier.

[djdj]

They are much easier to insert if you first liberally apply rubbing alcohol to the back of the pad.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by tylercheung

I just replaced older Centaur 10s ones... you apparently have to grab the old ones and forcefully yank them out w/ pliers. Then I was whacking the new ones into place w/ a hammer for like 30 minutes a pad.....

The newer ones have the little release clasp? I hope they are easier.

They are but a sharp wee screw driver got the old ones out easily and a little simple green or into the mouth like the Dude on Sunday in Hell..and tap them in..30 minutes per pad...

[jr59]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

They are but a sharp wee screw driver got the old ones out easily and a little simple green or into the mouth like the Dude on Sunday in Hell..and tap them in..30 minutes per pad...

Lol. Whenever I see that movie, I always think of you Peter