Help me decide if I want a dedicated road bike

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by David Kirk

I would say that your impression of a "race" bike falls in line with what many others think. Which is too bad really.

A real race bike should be stable first and foremost....not dull or slow witted but stable in the best sense of the word. If you can't sit up to take your vest off or open a powerbar wrapper then something is wrong.

All too many so-called races bikes are built to be unstable because it feels fast on a short ride and this sadly sells bikes. High BB's, short front centers and overly stiff construction make a bike feel fast on a test ride but are annoying and slower than if the bike is properly designed.

Anyway...the soap box is free if anyone cares to step up.


dave

Clap Clap Clap

Totally agree

[yinzerniner]

Originally Posted by belopsky

alternatively i do have wheels..any sub $1000 frames to look at. maybe something used?
I could definitely build up a 105 or ultegra bike for under $2k invested

Honestly way too many options to list as of this point. As other have stated, best bet is to visit as many LBSs as possible and try out whatever you can, hopefully with at least your desired saddle and possibly with your desired wheelset and tire combo.

Right now it looks like you have the Emonda, Domane and Tarmac all lined up, that's a good start. If you're trying the Tarmac make sure you do both current designs(reg vs dropped seat stays) as they vary greatly in terms of performance as well as price.

CAAD12 and Supersix are very much race geo so your position will be long and low but they've been designed with a lot of compliance in mind. That being said I prefer both the CAAD12 and Supersix to their nearest Trek competition, although I know plenty that skew the other way.

Canyon has a no questions asked return policy, so that's always a good thing to try out if you have the patience. Their biggest trump card seems to be value, aesthetics and quality over outright engineering, but I've only tried a single Endurace so maybe the opinion is suspect.

Lastly do an ask around here. Hopefully some people on Paceline live near you and would be willing to have you try out their steeds for a pint or two.

[colker]

Originally Posted by belopsky

and for way more than i was thinking I want this
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...cf-sl-disc-8-0

this is more affordable and maybe fortunately out of stock in my size
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...cf-sl-disc-7-0

Why not a Cannondale racing frame for starters? A CAAD12 would kick that crave real nice.

[belopsky]

Anyone near Ann arbor with a 52 caad?

[colker]

Originally Posted by belopsky

and for way more than i was thinking I want this
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...cf-sl-disc-8-0

this is more affordable and maybe fortunately out of stock in my size
https://www.canyon.com/en-us/road/en...cf-sl-disc-7-0

What´s your size? If i were in your shoes i would look for a late 80s 90s italian race bike on ebay. Those have stage race geometries meaning stable, fun, comfortable.
A Gios. Pinarello.Colnago. Tommasini. Mondonico. De Rosa. Basso. Casati or an Eddy Merkcx.
Get an slx or even better... an EL OS bike and be happy.

You don´t need an ultra light frameset. You want a balanced well designed frameset. You don´t even need a carbon fork.

[Kontact]

Originally Posted by belopsky

alternatively i do have wheels..any sub $1000 frames to look at. maybe something used?
I could definitely build up a 105 or ultegra bike for under $2k invested

You might check earlier in the thread for suggestions.

[colker]

Originally Posted by belopsky

Anyone near Ann arbor with a 52 caad?

i would size a larger road bike than a cross bike. Nothing wrong w / pending towards big.

[zennmotion]

Originally Posted by belopsky

Anyone near Ann arbor with a 52 caad?

Theres a 2016 52cm CAAD 12 on ebay now $750 OBO, The Pros Closet in Boulder- those guys are legit. I agree that CAADs are great workhorse race bikes, more zoom than bling. Hang a 5800 group on it an it would be awesome. It's also red...

[Pastashop]

For a road bike, in addition to Cannonball, Trekalized, there are Giant Defy, Giant SCR, Fuji Roubaix, Fuji Team/Pro... Guru, Felt... quite a few choices out there. The formula is pretty stable now — compact frame, low BB, long seatpost, massive HT and DT... and look for the longest chainstays you can find.

To liven up your cross bike, 25 mm tires (preferably tubulars) on low profile rims — badabing!

To do it right, commit, get a custom, join a local club, ride the bike exclusively for a year, and be happy.

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by David Kirk

I would say that your impression of a "race" bike falls in line with what many others think. Which is too bad really.

A real race bike should be stable first and foremost....not dull or slow witted but stable in the best sense of the word. If you can't sit up to take your vest off or open a powerbar wrapper then something is wrong.

All too many so-called races bikes are built to be unstable because it feels fast on a short ride and this sadly sells bikes. High BB's, short front centers and overly stiff construction make a bike feel fast on a test ride but are annoying and slower than if the bike is properly designed.

Anyway...the soap box is free if anyone cares to step up.


dave

If this were on FB, it'd have all the likes

#StableIsFast

[Clean39T]

Originally Posted by Pastashop

To do it right, commit, get a custom, join a local club, ride the bike exclusively for a year, and be happy.

Nah, just do what you're drawn to...and enjoy how that changes over time.

Happiness is a process, not a destination.

It starts with knowing enough about yourself in the present moment to do what's authentically right for you.

That may not be a custom right now or steel in general...for you, in this moment, it might be a CAAD12...

But if you go read through most of what Dave's written here and over across the hall and on his blog...well, I don't know anyone who has done that and not immediately wanted a Kirk that's built just for them...or at the very least come away knowing more about bikes than they'd pick up in ten years of reading the typical industry rags.

My advice is to fall down that rabbit hole as fast as you can...and see where it takes you...

[marciero]

I would hold off on custom initially. The CAAD or CAAAD clone would seem to be a cant-go-wrong option. After you ride that for a while, and possibly ride other bikes, you might develop some preferences and want something else, or in addition to, and possibly custom. The road bike I use on fast group rides is not the road bike I sometimes select for longer solo rides.

[belopsky]

I *assume* a steel bike will ride more comfortable than an aluminum one. Is this assumption wrong?

Is there a steel frameset for under $1000 that will net me a 18lb bike?

The wheels on the stock Caad12 or the Supersix Evo 105 are hogs. Even my HUNT wheelset beats em.

[Cicli]

Originally Posted by belopsky

I *assume* a steel bike will ride more comfortable than an aluminum one. Is this assumption wrong?

Is there a steel frameset for under $1000 that will net me a 18lb bike?

The wheels on the stock Caad12 or the Supersix Evo 105 are hogs. Even my HUNT wheelset beats em.

Aluminum when done right will ride very nice. I have an alloy Rock Lobster that is very, very comfortable. Super smooth.

[tommyrod74]

Originally Posted by belopsky

I *assume* a steel bike will ride more comfortable than an aluminum one. Is this assumption wrong?

Is there a steel frameset for under $1000 that will net me a 18lb bike?

The wheels on the stock Caad12 or the Supersix Evo 105 are hogs. Even my HUNT wheelset beats em.

Since you've been inquiring about my Gunnar Roadie that's for sale, I realize this might sound a bit self-serving, but there you go.

I've owned pretty much every bike you're considering. The Gunnar is a great mix of stiff enough (oversized steel, but not crazy oversized) and comfortable enough (especially with 28c tires, which fit easily), paired with rather aggressive geometry (steeper seat angles than the equivalent CAAD bikes, for example).

Compared with a CAAD of recent vintage (I've owned multiple CAAD 9 and 10 frames, and ridden a 12), it's a very different ride. Not whippy, definitely racy, but takes a bit of the edge off. Not like carbon, either, as you definitely get lots of road feedback. And at 1600-ish grams for the frame, very light for steel. Modern steel rides very nicely. With the Enve fork it's as good a race bike as I've ridden, but is fine on 100+ mile rides. Plus, it's harder to dent

For me, the made-in-USA (by a Schwinn family member) heritage and ride quality make it a great choice. I'm keeping my other one as my race bike.

When I had one Roadie and one CAAD9 (set up identically) I chose the Gunnar to ride 90% of the time. The one in the classifieds is sub-18 lbs with pedals, and that's with full 6800, alloy bars, and no real effort to save weight.