Grease for assembly?

[slambers3]

Anti-seize for anything touching titanium (bottom brackets, etc)
Phill wood or park grease for everything else.

[11.4]

This is in a few other threads by now, but to make it convenient ...

A grease is simply oil stirred up into something to make it thick. That can be a clay (which is what most cheap white lubricants are, including ... sorry, Spud ... traditional Campagnolo grease). It can be a soap, which tends to be slightly caustic over time, oddly enough. It can be a synthetic carrier, as in Phil Green Lubricant. Some (like clays) are the most stable at high temperature and work best under high pressure. Among synthetics, cycling is very undemanding so practically anything will work. They aren't actually as lubricating and don't have the same lubricity because the synthetic carriers don't contribute to lubrication as well, but do ok for most purposes (including ours).

Antiseizes are simply grease mixed up with metal flakes. For our purposes, 95% of the purpose of anti seize is served by the grease. If you're really using an anti seize in an environment that needs it, the metal flakes will be consumed in lieu of part of your bike. You'll notice that never seems to happen -- the stuff in the threads when you disassemble a bottom bracket is just like when you put it in. Antiseizes are cheap or expensive -- the metals cost money and cheaper ones use less metal and also use cheap greases. Stick with Locktite or a similar industrial brand and it'll be adequate. Copper based anti seize work fine for most stuff; you'll notice that the tool and parts companies only offer copper based versions for use on bikes.

Sometimes you don't properly need lubrication because two surfaces aren't moving against each other (think a seat post in a seat tube) but want to avoid corrosion. The non-slip compounds I've used from Tacx and other companies have really crappy lubricant in them, but I've used them because of the grit they include to prevent slippage. However, I can't help but believe those will encourage corrosion in those areas because they aren't that protective and they actually maintain a slight gap that moisture can be drawn into. I have been moving more towards using regular grease for proper protection, and simply not using stems, bars, seat posts, and the like that are so badly designed that they snap or crush before they can reach a reliable holding torque. I'm probably in the minority on non-slip compounds, but it's a funky way to achieve a result. At a minimum, treat it like a lubricant that needs to be replaced every 6-12 months or so.