#1
|
||||
|
||||
OT: Wood glue for chair legs. What's the best?
Inherited some thick, heavy chairs (former owner told me there were made in Germany from Romanian Oak), but there's some separation on the braces. What are you woodworkers using? I don't want to slop Elmer's in there..
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
I like this, the original is also OK.
__________________
Sonder MTB, Planet X Ti Gravel, Seven Ti, Lynskey Ti |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
tightbond is great but if the joints are a bit worn out and you need something with some gap filling capabilities than an epoxy will do the job better.
__________________
please don't take anything I say personally, I am an idiot. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Titebond 2 or 3
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Titebond it is. Thank you!
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
I would just use regular Titebond or Elmers wood, the yellow AR glue. For vintage restoration I'd use Hide glue.
But this stuff is fantastic for chairs that have loose rungs: https://www.amazon.com/Behlen-S036-2.../dp/B0006ZP8HY |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I've been using Elmer's for carpenters for forever. They seem to announce, "New Stronger Formula," every couple of years; works the same as ever, though.
Make sure you clamp it after gluing. Speed clamps do great. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Epoxy with CAB‑O‑SIL, or wood flower as a thickener.
Last edited by Tony; 02-23-2019 at 10:23 PM. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
I've used Gorilla Wood Glue for some time and it seems to be very good. I can't really tell the difference between the Gorilla Wood Glue and the Titebond III Wood Glue, in fact due this forum discussion I went and researched them and apparently the pros and cons are the same for both, so they probably use the same chemical makeup. If it matters the Gorilla is a little bit cheaper.
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
But the stuff most people just refer to as Gorilla glue is their original PU glue which is good strong stuff but can also create a foaming mess. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
LOL! Ain't that the truth! I have a pair of cycling shoes that I repaired with Gorilla Glue, they look like an abomination from John Carpenter's "The Thing"
|
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Hot hide glue.
|
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
The poly Gorilla stuff is the one that foams, the wood glue does not foam. I also use the Gorilla poly glue for other stuff and it too works great but you do have to keep wiping the residue glue off as it begins to ooze. There is a Gorilla white glue that a lot of people use for wood but it will foam. The original Gorilla glue, as well as the clear and white versions of it will fill in gaps in wood, so if you have a wood thing that is a bit sloppy in the fitting you can use the foaming glue and it will stop that slopping fitting better than wood glue by itself, but you do have to be conscious of the foaming effect and be wiping it off quite frequently for about two hours after applying. The foam if it dries on the outside can be easily taken off but if you wait too long it will be more difficult to remove. I've used both the clear and the wood Gorilla glue on wood due to the applications and both have held up very well. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
But the over-slop can now be tidied up with a bench grinder(?). |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
But still, for anyone who has loose rungs and things like that, I can't recommend enough the Chair Lock stuff I linked to above. It really is fantastic stuff, easy to apply and makes no mess. |
|
|