2018 chorus shifting problem

[dddd]

Good to hear, and a good choice of housing, Shimano's current SP41 housing is pre-lubricated along it's entire length with the right low-viscosity silicone/PTFE, so the cable only needs to be lubed with cable grease where it makes a sharp turn into the shift lever (I wipe the cables down anyway with a scant pinch of the SRAM lube that I use in the shifter's cable guide).

The good thing I've found about having to re-do a bike's internal cabling is that it becomes much easier after having to run the cables twice in quick succession on the same day. Doing it yearly, not so much.

[nachetetm]

I do have a similar problem with my Potenza rear derailleur, hesitation to go onto the smaller sprockets when on the big chainring, but surprisingly it only does it after riding a couple of hour. When on the stand or when I start riding shifts with utmost precision, but at the end of the ride it does not. Does anyone has an idea why can this happen? Before I start fiddling with gear changes I would like to know if there is another reason, as I find the adjustment almost perfect when working fine and I do not want to mess up changing cables and fine-tune again if I can avoid it. The cable routing is external, original Campagnolo cables. The only other symptom I have of the derailleur not being 100% tuned is that when in the big sprockets (9 and 10) it gets a bit noisier, I am not sure if this is related or not. Derailleur alignment was checked (and fixed) not long time ago.

[R3awak3n]

Originally Posted by Dave

I got the bike shifting properly this morning. I finally received a 30 foot roll of Shimano housing late yesterday and started over this morning. I used some of that housing with a 1.1mm jagwire cable. With the bolt on cable guide under the BB, you have to at least disconnect the FD cable to work on the RD cable, so I took the opportunity to install the campy inline tension adjuster for the FD cable and replace that cable too.

I didn't find anything specific to be wrong. I did try a shorter cable loop at the RD, but it didn't shift as well, so the longer loop went back on.

One trick I use so I don't loose the cable path through the frame is to use some heat shrink tubing to join a scrap cable to the one I want to pull out, then pull it all the way from front to back. I still manage to lose the pathway occasionally and the only way I've found to get it back is with a 3 foot length of .035 inch welding rod. I can drop that through the upper cable stop hole and eventually get it through the hole at the BB. Then I use the heat shrink tubing to join the end of the new cable to the welding rod and pull it through the down tube.

Having internal cables probably adds two hours to a normally easy task.

Internal cabling is aweful.

I needed to add some lenght to the RD cable loop and so the cable is a bit shorter than before. No way I was going to put a new cable on there, internal cabling turned a 30 second thing into a 2 hour thing, hell maybe even more on this bike with the press fit BB. BUT, when its all said and done, it does look nice.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by R3awak3n

Internal cabling is aweful.

I needed to add some lenght to the RD cable loop and so the cable is a bit shorter than before. No way I was going to put a new cable on there, internal cabling turned a 30 second thing into a 2 hour thing, hell maybe even more on this bike with the press fit BB. BUT, when its all said and done, it does look nice.

At least I can do mine with no interference from the Campy PF BB cups. That helps.

[Dave]

Originally Posted by nachetetm

I do have a similar problem with my Potenza rear derailleur, hesitation to go onto the smaller sprockets when on the big chainring, but surprisingly it only does it after riding a couple of hour. When on the stand or when I start riding shifts with utmost precision, but at the end of the ride it does not. Does anyone has an idea why can this happen? Before I start fiddling with gear changes I would like to know if there is another reason, as I find the adjustment almost perfect when working fine and I do not want to mess up changing cables and fine-tune again if I can avoid it. The cable routing is external, original Campagnolo cables. The only other symptom I have of the derailleur not being 100% tuned is that when in the big sprockets (9 and 10) it gets a bit noisier, I am not sure if this is related or not. Derailleur alignment was checked (and fixed) not long time ago.

If you're using ultrashift levers instead of powershift, it can add to the problem.

My winter bike is setup that way - 2008 ultrashift levers with a 2018 Potenza RD. That also requires a RD mod to increase the RD travel to match the old shift lever cable pull. No clue why it works any differently after riding a couple of hours.

[Joe Remi]

I bought this doohickey to route a dropper post on my mtb. Pricey, but worth every cent..two hours to route cables is madness.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZDE1UY..._rs7oCbQ6SPG90

[nachetetm]

Originally Posted by Dave

If you're using ultrashift levers instead of powershift, it can add to the problem.

My winter bike is setup that way - 2008 ultrashift levers with a 2018 Potenza RD. That also requires a RD mod to increase the RD travel to match the old shift lever cable pull. No clue why it works any differently after riding a couple of hours.

Not the case. Potenza levers and derailleurs. I would assume is a problem with the cable or the gain, but it puzzles me that only happens after a couple of hours ride

[Charles M]

3 bikes with Potenza... Zero problems.