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  #1  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:00 PM
Climb01742 Climb01742 is offline
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seatpost slipping: suggestions?

so here's my situation: aluminum post in a steel frame. and it's slipping.

originally it was just post in frame. after having it slip considerably, i applied grease inside the top of the seat tube. this mitigated the slippage but it still loses a few mm's each ride.

any suggestions for further fixes to keep the alu post from slipping?

one option, adam hansen uses a second seat collar. thoughts?

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/...lium-sl/297688

another option is to try another post. but it's a 31.6 post and only other one i have is carbon. if i try the carbon, i assume i should clean out the grease from the seat tube and apply carbon paste? any downside to residual grease mixing with carbon paste?

to sum up my situation in a word: help!

thanks!
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  #2  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:22 PM
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oldpotatoe oldpotatoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Climb01742 View Post
so here's my situation: aluminum post in a steel frame. and it's slipping.

originally it was just post in frame. after having it slip considerably, i applied grease inside the top of the seat tube. this mitigated the slippage but it still loses a few mm's each ride.

any suggestions for further fixes to keep the alu post from slipping?

one option, adam hansen uses a second seat collar. thoughts?

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/...lium-sl/297688

another option is to try another post. but it's a 31.6 post and only other one i have is carbon. if i try the carbon, i assume i should clean out the grease from the seat tube and apply carbon paste? any downside to residual grease mixing with carbon paste?

to sum up my situation in a word: help!

thanks!
Good bike shop will have a knurling tool...makes ridges in post, no slip no mas.
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  #3  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:31 PM
Ken C Ken C is offline
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I had the same problem with a cheap steel commuter frame a Pake C'Mute.

I use carbon paste on an aluminum post and now it does not slip without having to result in excessive torque on the binder bolt.
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  #4  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:42 PM
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Grant McLean Grant McLean is offline
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The very smooth and polished Easton Dura-Ace post used to slip in my Kirk,
and i put some of the Finish Line fiber grip on it, which seems to have solved
the problem.

http://www.finishlineusa.com/product...ts/fiber-grip-

-g
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  #5  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:44 PM
Ken C Ken C is offline
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Finish Line

Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant McLean View Post
The very smooth and polished Easton Dura-Ace post used to slip in my Kirk,
and i put some of the Finish Line fiber grip on it, which seems to have solved
the problem.

http://www.finishlineusa.com/product...ts/fiber-grip-

-g
That is the same stuff I use.
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  #6  
Old 08-14-2014, 08:29 PM
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vqdriver vqdriver is online now
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Doesn't have to be carbon to use carbon paste.
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  #7  
Old 08-14-2014, 09:00 PM
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shovelhd shovelhd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken C View Post
That is the same stuff I use.
Me too. Cheap and effective.
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  #8  
Old 08-14-2014, 09:51 PM
RobJ RobJ is offline
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Another cheap, simple solution is a piece of tape wrapped around the post at the position where it would meet the top of the seat tube. Some type of tape that has a cloth/fabric backing.
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  #9  
Old 08-14-2014, 09:53 PM
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Tony T Tony T is offline
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I had this problem and it was the fastening nut that was not staying tight (5nm).
A little loc-tite on the threads solved it.
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  #10  
Old 08-14-2014, 10:14 PM
Peter P. Peter P. is offline
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Make sure the clamp bolt is not bottoming out at the coincidental torque to give you SOME clamping force but not ENOUGH.

I've read that grease on carbon posts does something bad like penetrate the epoxy, making the post slip even more and after that, difficult to remove the grease's effect.

Measure your 31.6 post to verify it's not undersized.

According to my Sutherland's manual, the seat tube for your particular mating of steel frame to aluminum post, the seat TUBE can be as large as 31.8mm and still work with your post. Ideally, the seat TUBE would be no larger than 31.65mm.

You could have the "perfect storm" of an oversized seat tube AND undersized seat post.

My only concern with using carbon past is, will it prevent rust in the seat tube and impair seizing of the seat post.
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  #11  
Old 08-14-2014, 10:19 PM
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shovelhd shovelhd is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter P. View Post
My only concern with using carbon past is, will it prevent rust in the seat tube and impair seizing of the seat post.
That's what it is designed to do. It's just grease with grit in it.
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  #12  
Old 08-14-2014, 10:55 PM
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Dead Man Dead Man is offline
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I had this problem.... I finally realized my seatpost clamp had a crack in it. I used my tail light clamp as a brace of sorts to try to get me the last 50 miles, but it finally broke all the way through and I had to low-rider it to a bike shop for a temp clamp. Fortunately, I was a few miles from a shop- 'cause I probably looked like an idiot

But I obviously rode around with it cracked for some time- I hadn't had any problems, then one day I noticed it had slipped and from that point on I never could get it tight.
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  #13  
Old 08-17-2014, 01:47 AM
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fogrider fogrider is offline
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A buddy had this problem and had the post knurled. It was fine until the post snapped. Go with paste. Check tube diameter, steel can stretch.
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  #14  
Old 08-17-2014, 02:04 AM
Boar Boar is offline
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seatpost slipping: suggestions?

I had the same problems with my steel and carbon frames, solved with this:
http://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/products/carbogrip/
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  #15  
Old 08-17-2014, 10:16 AM
p nut p nut is offline
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I have an aluminum EBB in a steel frame. I use this stuff called Oatey's Joint Compound (from Home Depot). No slip and works great. Manufacturer suggests Carbogrip if this doesn't work, but no issues for me. And only $2 for a tube.
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