Straddle cables

[Alexi]

school me on better canti straddle cables. are there any out there that are better then the normal jagwire ones besides using a shift cable and a Compass Cycles narb?

[RafaRides]

Following this thread because I have an '89 stumpjumper with weirdly large straddle cable for a U-Brake on the chainstay. Not sure what I'll do if/when it goes

[tellyho]

Good luck finding anything outside of Sunlite or Jagwire. I think it's generally been proven that they don't need to be heavy gauge. I think Jan Heine talks about using derailleur cables at some point but not sure I'd go that far. For me, it's not a part that I'm concerned about optimizing.

[Mark McM]

Originally Posted by tellyho

Good luck finding anything outside of Sunlite or Jagwire. I think it's generally been proven that they don't need to be heavy gauge. I think Jan Heine talks about using derailleur cables at some point but not sure I'd go that far. For me, it's not a part that I'm concerned about optimizing.

I'm not sure I'd want to use a derailleur cable in such a critical place. Depending on geometry and setup, the force on a cantilever straddle cable can be as much or more than the force in the main brake cable.

The required straddle cable end button will depend on the particular cantilever brake, but a "traditional" straddle cable end button is the same as a standard MTB lever end button, so a "traditional" straddle cable is just a cut down MTB brake cable.

[RafaRides]

That's good to know, thanks Mark.

What if the end of the straddle cable (the terminal/anchor I think it's called?) is larger than a modern mtb brake cable end/terminal/anchor?

I believe modern cable terminals/anchors are 1.5mm, and this one on my straddle cable is probably more like 2-2.5mm.

Don't mean to hijack the thread, I just haven't found a good resource for this and it might be useful for others/op.

[tellyho]

I have trouble with the cut down brake cables I have on one bike - need the extra wedge part of the cable end to be able to undo the straddle to take the wheel out. Had to buy actual straddle cables.

[AngryScientist]

I do t know if they sell them separately but the Paul ones are nice.

[Velocipede]

There isn't a massive difference in straddle wires. All of them are steel vs stainless. The Compass ones are nice cause of the hardware but they are crazy money. The Jagwire ones are just like over brands, the Paul is a knockoff of the older Shimano ones when they used the plastic guides to install/adjust them.

They are all pretty normal and essentially the same.

[sheepbleat]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

I do t know if they sell them separately but the Paul ones are nice.

And they ain’t too pricey!

https://www.paulcomp.com/shop/servic...ouring-pack-2/

[Alexi]

Originally Posted by Mark McM

I'm not sure I'd want to use a derailleur cable in such a critical place. Depending on geometry and setup, the force on a cantilever straddle cable can be as much or more than the force in the main brake cable.

The required straddle cable end button will depend on the particular cantilever brake, but a "traditional" straddle cable end button is the same as a standard MTB lever end button, so a "traditional" straddle cable is just a cut down MTB brake cable.

I’ve run shift cables with Mafac knarps for years with Paul brakes with no problem. Unfortunately I can’t with the XT cantis, there is a shroud where the head of the cable goes that prevents a knarp from being used.

[Alexi]

Originally Posted by tellyho

Good luck finding anything outside of Sunlite or Jagwire. I think it's generally been proven that they don't need to be heavy gauge. I think Jan Heine talks about using derailleur cables at some point but not sure I'd go that far. For me, it's not a part that I'm concerned about optimizing.

The optimization is that you loose some of the leverage from the lever in making the straddle cable bend before the arms of the brake are able to actuate. A thiner cable is easier for the hanger to bend. You can pre-bend a thicker cable but it doesn’t always work right, and sometimes it needs to be rebent as the pads wear and things need adjusting. Mafac used shift cables for straddle cables for years on a bazillion bikes. I’ve used the mafac knarp on shift cables with Paul brakes for years with no problems. The knarps won’t fit on my XT cantis however.

[pdonk]

I just reuse a brake cable I have changed, for most vintage cantis and ubrakes it works just fine, just don't cut too short.

[donevwil]

Originally Posted by Alexi

... I’ve used the mafac knarp on shift cables with Paul brakes for years with no problems...

What a great option, wonder why I never thought of trying this . I've been looking for a better option on my Paul Racer M road bike currently running Moon Units with thick straddle cables. Yes they work fine, but still some lever action is lost to tension the straddle cable, no way around it, that little bit would likely improve modulation a tad, and IMO the combo is not aesthetically pleasing on that particular bike. Plus I have a box of old Mafac Racer parts.

[Alexi]

Originally Posted by donevwil

What a great option, wonder why I never thought of trying this . I've been looking for a better option on my Paul Racer M road bike currently running Moon Units with thick straddle cables. Yes they work fine, but still some lever action is lost to tension the straddle cable, no way around it, that little bit would likely improve modulation a tad, and IMO the combo is not aesthetically pleasing on that particular bike. Plus I have a box of old Mafac Racer parts.

I ended up using some old sturmy parts and made my own gnarps knarps





holy big pictures batman!

[rice rocket]

I have a whole bag of these that a forum member sent me about 10 years ago. If you send me your address, I will forward them.