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#1
06-13-2022, 12:32 PM
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Mystery Creak and Play
For those who have Chris King BB and Rear Hub combos, or anyone else that might want to weigh in, here is the befuddling situation:
I recently built up (as in did it myself) my first Titanium frame. I had a new CK T47 ceramic BB installed on it, oddly because that was all I could find in the spec. I recycled the Ultegra 8070 gruppo and CK R45D rear wheel from a previous bike. Chain was new but cassette and chainrings were used, albeit not high mileage. Pedals also new. So the problem is a mixture of two things: - When I’m putting pressure on the pedals I feel a sort of “popping” or clicking which I could swear was coming from the BB. But spin the pedals backwards, or remove the chain altogether and BB bearings feel perfect. Nevertheless I’ve pulled the crank, ensured fresh grease is between the spindle and mating surfaces, and installation is without lateral play. It’s a Shimano 24mm spindle with corresponding CK fit kit aka plastic reducers. - Adding to this feeling is the noise. I’ll off and on have a creaking noise which this time I swear is coming from the back of the bike. To combat this I pulled the hub apart and serviced everything per the CK videos. Correct grease and everything. Bearings feel great there as well. And yet somewhere I have abnormal mechanical interference or contact. So hit me with your troubleshooting tips and I’ll systematically eliminate them until hopefully I find the culprit. Things I’ve already tried: Different shoes and cleats Different cassette w/ a different type of spacer Greasing Thru axle threads into the frame Things I don’t have but should probably acquire: A torque wrench A knowledgeable and trustworthy shop here in Berlin Welcoming your suggestions! 
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#2
06-13-2022, 02:49 PM
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Maybe the popping clicking feel you get when spinning the crank with the chain on is because of a tight link in the chain. It could also be cable tension/derailleur setup. The noise could be coming from a seatpost or even saddle rails, and it seems like it’s coming from the rear dropouts. The only thing I use from King is their headsets, but I do know the rear hubs can be fiddly thanks to years of working in shops. Though it sounds like you’ve figured that end out…good luck!
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#4
06-13-2022, 03:44 PM
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Couple of easy things to try next:
If you have a second wheelset, put those wheels on the bike and ride around and see if the noise goes away. Swap out the pedals, even just for a pair of cheap flat pedals to see if that is the cause.
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#5
06-13-2022, 04:46 PM
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Had an out-of-the-saddle creak that wouldn't respond to any of the usual fixes
 ... also on a titanium frameset.Dave Kirk suggested the anodized Shimano FD band could be the culprit, due to the rub with slight seat tube flex with forceful pedaling; apparently this has been a known problem with titanium frames. Sanding off the FD band anodizing and applying a touch of lube was recommended. That wasn't the case for me, but lubing the interface between the anodized bottom bracket and BB face itself finally cured the problem.
__________________
Old... and in the way.
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#6
06-13-2022, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
My regular shop, Bath Cycle and Ski (Maine) came through for me on this one... I brought the bike in with the problem the Saturday before last at 10:00AM, I was out on my ride with a loaner bottom bracket at 11:00AM, and I got the call today that the replacement bottom just came in. No charge for the services since it was a warranteed item (and I had them build up the bike for me a year and a half ago.)
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#7
06-13-2022, 06:08 PM
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2 things I would try:
1) a different seat post 2) installing the BB with both Teflon tape and grease (I put 2 wraps of teflon tape around my BBs and grease over that and on the BB shell threads
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#8
06-14-2022, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Some thoughts on item 2)… Can work, but I’ve had much better results with copper based neverseize between ti and aluminum interfaces. Put it on both surfaces (I.e. generously) and torque to spec. A Chemist can weigh in on this but ti through galvanic corrosion will eat up aluminum, especially in a damp environment as often occurs at the bottom bracket. So, you need a weep hole in the bottom bracket shell to get the water out that inevitably collects there when riding in the rain. If you’re running a mechanical drivetrain and the bb shell doesn’t have a weep hole, and you care not to drill one, you may can get a vented bolt to replace the bolt used on your cable guide. McMaster-Carr sells them; M5-.8X 8mm stainless vented button head cap screw, part # MBHS05C008V. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#9
06-14-2022, 09:47 AM
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I've had the same thing twice and both times it was a worn cleat. Does it pop on both downstrokes or just one side? I know you tried different shoes and cleats but maybe try a brand new set of cleats and see what happens. Just a shot, but given the ease of this fix, worth trying perhaps. Good luck!
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#11
06-29-2022, 02:35 PM
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Hi all. Wanted to make sure to update everyone that the problem seems to be solved! I went through much of the above suggested trial and error troubleshooting. Thankfully I have many of the same parts on another bike which helped isolate the issues.
The creak was remedied by adjusting the preload of the rear wheel bearings. I must have tightened it a turn more than necessary. And combined with likely over tightening the cassette lockring, resulted in a creak. The hub asking for mercy if you will. The popping or “play” when I pushed on the pedals ended up being the BB cups not being tight enough. Confusing because my neighbor helped me with his Park Tool beam torque wrench. I swear I told him 50 Nm but they were either not tightened enough or worked themselves loose. King T47 24i cups with ceramic bearings fwiw. I had unwavering faith in their quality control and that they wouldn’t ship these BBs with a defect … Anyway, don’t be afraid to strip the bike down and start over. And check those Bottom Brackets.
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