Campy Veloce crank install -- does this look right?

cgolvin · #1 02-09-2019, 06:53 PM

For Eroica, I'm temporarily swapping out my Nuovo Record BB & crankset for a compact (Veloce) on my Gios.

After one misfire I have the right BB, a Centaur square taper 111mm.
I am using the crank bolts from my NR crankset and just put it all together.
While the drive side looks right, there's a sizable gap between the NDS crank arm and the BB (I'd estimate 5mm). I assume that the NDS crankarm should be close to flush against the BB. Pictures of both sides below.

If that gap is not right, what might be the cause?
NDS BB cup not adequately torqued? (Spec says 70nm, I don't have fitting for my torque wrench but I went pretty hard on it.)
Need different crank bolts? Or just need to tighten further?
Other?
Thanks

Ralph · #2 02-09-2019, 07:27 PM

On a Campy 111 square taper.....you kinda know when it won't go on any further. You get to a point, and bolt won't turn anymore. As I recall, around 30 ft lbs. Looks about right to me for Veloce.

ntb1001 · #3 02-09-2019, 07:35 PM

Hard to tell with the pics...but I think it’s ok. The crank bolt shouldn’t make a difference as long as they fit through the crank arm.
Ride it for a bit and see how it feels.
Maybe Old Potato can give an opinion.

You doing California Eroica??

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cgolvin · #4 02-09-2019, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ntb1001

Hard to tell with the pics...but I think it’s ok. The crank bolt shouldn’t make a difference as long as they fit through the crank arm.
Ride it for a bit and see how it feels.
Maybe Old Potato can give an opinion.

You doing California Eroica??

Thanks. Just eyeballing it the chain line looks about right too.

Yep, California Eroica — doing it with my brother who's undergoing a similar update to his 1972 Masi. mhespenheide has even offered to lend me his Brooklyn replica jersey so I can impersonate Roger de Vlaeminck

ntb1001 · #5 02-09-2019, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgolvin

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Very cool...I’m debating with myself about buying a mint condition vintage bike or not right now. I know I won’t really ride it, but I would like to go to Eroica California within the next year or two...so I might get it.
Looks like a good time.

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oldpotatoe · #6 02-10-2019, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgolvin

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Looks good to me. Hopefully DRY spindle with grease on bolt threads and around crank bolt washers...30 ft lbs of torque. The 2 cups are a little different.

cgolvin · #7 02-10-2019, 03:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

Looks good to me. Hopefully DRY spindle with grease on bolt threads and around crank bolt washers...30 ft lbs of torque. The 2 cups are a little different.

Well, one out of three isn't too bad…
Grease on bolt threads, check, but not around washers (does that mean a dab on the interior of the crank where the washer sits against it?).

I put grease on the spindle thinking it would ease seating of the crank arm, knew I should have checked in with OP first. How serious of a mistake is that? I.e., am I better off removing, drying the spindle, and reinstalling?

Unfortunately, it seems that the threads on the interior of the drive side crank have been mangled slightly so I can't get the cover to thread in smoothly, and I assume that's not correctable so I'm going sans caps.

Thanks all.

zmudshark · #8 02-10-2019, 03:48 PM

A decent LBS should have a crank cover tap. 22x1.0

MURDERF4CE · #9 02-10-2019, 04:06 PM

Looks right to me.. I've always seen a slight gap on cranksets

Ralph · #10 02-10-2019, 04:52 PM

I don't recall Veloce Cranks having bolt covers that screw in. As I recall.....they just had pieces of plastic around the allen head crank arm bolt. Centaur had a little nicer allen head crank arm bolt that completely filled the hole. The Centaur ones would work on a Veloce crank arm.

Like this...except the Veloce may have had plastic around the bolt, where Centaur and up was metal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAMPAGNOLO-...Rpn:rk:25:pf:0

I have 4 cranksets with these bolts.

cgolvin · #11 02-10-2019, 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ralph

I don't recall Veloce Cranks having bolt covers that screw in. As I recall.....they just had pieces of plastic around the allen head crank arm bolt. Centaur had a little nicer allen head crank arm bolt that completely filled the hole. The Centaur ones would work on a Veloce crank arm.

Like this...except the Veloce may have had plastic around the bolt, where Centaur and up was metal. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAMPAGNOLO-...Rpn:rk:25:pf:0

I have 4 cranksets with these bolts.

Yeah, I initially started to use the allen head crank arm bolts from the square taper Record cranks I have since that would have obviated the need for the cover caps (I had already determined the threading problem with the cap on the drive side). Unfortunately, it seems that the Record cranks have a larger diameter hole surrounding the crank bolt because at a certain point the allen crank bolt began removing the threads from the crank arm. At that point I backed it out and switched to the NR bolts.

Ralph · #12 02-10-2019, 05:14 PM

Yes....save the threads for the puller. Earlier C Record used some self extracting bolts. Hard to find and valuable.

Ralph · #13 02-10-2019, 05:34 PM

If you have roughed up the threads on the crank arms a bit.....maybe you can use the NR crank arm puller to fix them up a bit. Run the puller in and out a few times making sure you are threading correctly (NOT reverse threaded). Steel puller on aluminum arms should do it...carefully.

bitpuddle · #14 02-11-2019, 11:09 PM

Great looking bike

ntb1001 · #15 02-11-2019, 06:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cgolvin

Well, one out of three isn't too bad…

Grease on bolt threads, check, but not around washers (does that mean a dab on the interior of the crank where the washer sits against it?).

I put grease on the spindle thinking it would ease seating of the crank arm, knew I should have checked in with OP first. How serious of a mistake is that? I.e., am I better off removing, drying the spindle, and reinstalling?

Unfortunately, it seems that the threads on the interior of the drive side crank have been mangled slightly so I can't get the cover to thread in smoothly, and I assume that's not correctable so I'm going sans caps.

Thanks all.

You’re going to need those threads to use a crank puller when you want to remove them. You should tap the threads to chase them...as suggested earlier...very carefully.

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