Mavic Allroad

snah · #1 08-20-2019, 07:28 PM

So, picked these up a few months ago with the hopes they’d fit with the 32’s on my Lynskey. Didn’t happen. Spent way too much time trying to fit clinchers, Michelin, WTB and Specialized, could NOT get the bead over the rim, way too frustrating. So, went back to the Mavic tires that came with the wheels, soap and injured nails, finally installed and sealed. Couple months riding with no issues, until today. Nice rainy ride home and the front punchers, sealant everywhere and the hole never seals. Opt for a tube to get home but again, can’t get the dang tire over the rim edge. So, what gives? First, is sealant supposed to work in rain or no? If it is, why didn’t it? Hole was obvious, white stuff everywhere, not huge but visible. Second, why can’t I get a clincher tire mounted on these dang rims? Anyone with experience know what clinchers will fit on these rims without excessive cursing?

Any advice, thoughts, suggestions appreciated. The wheel almost ended up in the river today.

chazzwazzer · #2 08-20-2019, 07:40 PM

This may sound like a stupid question, but are you having trouble with the first bead or the second?

What sealant were you using?

I’ve had tubeless tires be nearly impossible to mount with a tube (Schwalbe/Ultegra combo).

snah · #3 08-20-2019, 07:46 PM

Not a stupid question, issue is the second bead. Sealant is Stan’s.

jtakeda · #4 08-20-2019, 07:49 PM

When mounting the tire are you pushing the installed side of the bead into the center channel before trying to get the 2nd bead on?

snah · #5 08-20-2019, 07:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jtakeda

When mounting the tire are you pushing the installed side of the bead into the center channel before trying to get the 2nd bead on?

Believe so, I push the installed side as close to the center, if not a little over, as I can.

Paid In Full · #6 08-20-2019, 08:05 PM

I was working on a pair of 2019 Cosmic Pro Carbon's (so probably not an apples to apples comparison) and struggled to get tires on or off. Upon closer inspection, found that the rim beds had a second groove/lip, I assume to help hold the tubeless tire in the appropriate channel. Whatever it's for, it made install and removal a challenge. Does the aluminum rim have the same groove?

chazzwazzer · #7 08-20-2019, 08:05 PM

That was going to be my next question. I find it helps to pull up on the tire (or in the direction where the mounting will finish) when mounting the second bead to guarantee the first bead is in the center and under tension. In the past that’s gotten me enough of the second bead over as possible to wrench the rest on.

zzy · #8 08-20-2019, 08:24 PM

IIRC Mavic has came up with its own special bead socket that they claim is extra secure. Could mean it makes non-tubeless tires extra hard to mount, which isn't uncommon with tubeless rims. Try to make the one of the beads is as close to the middle of the rim as possible when forcing the other side over, then go around and push the tight side towards the center too as you're trying to get the last bit over, it gives those extra few mm that you need. With the right technique any tire can be mounted by hand.

prototoast · #9 08-20-2019, 08:51 PM

I have had a lot of trouble mounting tires on these wheels. I know all the tips and tricks. It's still brutal. Last time I got a flat on the road, I spent 20 minutes and my thumb was bleeding before I was able to get the tire back on. I miss pre-tubless rims.

doublenines · #10 08-20-2019, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prototoast

I have had a lot of trouble mounting tires. I know all the tips and tricks. It's still brutal. Last time I got a flat on the road, I spent 20 minutes and my thumb was bleeding before I was able to get the tire back on. I miss pre-tubless rims.

Been there! Fusions on Fulcrums rubbed the skin off my thumbs. Hardest mount I’ve ever done.

Always worried about getting a flat out on the road cause there was no way I could get a tube in it. Luckily, never came to that. Rode them for a while without issues and then went with Schwalbes and never looked back.

I remember hitting the tire with heat from a blow dryer and it either worked or my 45 minutes of stretching it finally got it over the rim. Try that as a last resort if you’re exhausted, frustrated, or just want to finish so you can go to bed.

Also, I now carry a Dynaplug just in case the hole is too big for the sealant.

Rekalcitrant · #11 08-21-2019, 10:28 PM

This might be too obvious to be worth mentioning, but make sure to do the section by the valve stem last. In my experience it can make a big difference being careful to get the part of the tire already on the rim really seated in the middle of the groove, and then kinda pull/push/stretch the tire as you are working around to the valve. if it’s still really tight, sometimes it helps to work the part not yet on the rim past the valve and then go back and pop it over.

Clean39T · #12 08-21-2019, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rekalcitrant

This might be too obvious to be worth mentioning, but make sure to do the section by the valve stem last. In my experience it can make a big difference being careful to get the part of the tire already on the rim really seated in the middle of the groove, and then kinda pull/push/stretch the tire as you are working around to the valve. if it’s still really tight, sometimes it helps to work the part not yet on the rim past the valve and then go back and pop it over.

This. I mounted Challenge open-tubulars (notoriously difficult) on my Mavic Allroad's and didn't lose any skin, or need to go to confessional afterwards. Good pair of levers and a little patience is all it takes.

Still, I don't need the wheels and have them up on eBay now

dddd · #13 08-23-2019, 05:03 PM

When working the second bead into the rim channel, be aware that if the tension on the bead is lost for even a moment, that the entire bead may spring back out of the center channel, forcing you to start over in terms of getting enough of the bead into the center channel for there to be sufficient slack so as to proceed.

And for sure, as Rekalcitrant mentioned, the very last portion of the bead to be forced into the rim cavity MUST be at the valve stem, as otherwise too much slack will be lost to the bead crossing the valve stem.

Tire beads often have appreciable grip friction against the rim surface, so as the bead is worked in while tension is steadfastly maintained, it helps to go around the rim with your third hand and keep working the bead toward center, which breaks the frictional grip enough to allow more slack to accumulate where you're holding the bead tight with your tire iron.

I've used the Allroad rims only with Allroad tires, and had no difficulty getting both beads installed.

Lastly, if installing with a tube in place, as the bead becomes too tight while installing be sure to relieve any pressure in the tube at this time and keep working the entire circumference of the bead into the rim channel with your spare hand.