Pegoretti White Touch Up Paint Advice

[VanBikeGuy]

I sincere thank you very much for everyone's advice. Work and family have been very busy this week so I didn't get a chance to start. I will post pics once I'm done though.

On the oxalic acid bath front, are you sure that it won't damage the paint? Do others have experience with this as well. Don't know how my wife is going to see about stealing my 18 month old's float pool to try a bath.

[Peter P.]

Originally Posted by billyd0012

Any recommended spray paints or primer?

Definitely wash and dry the areas before paint. Wear gloves so you don't get skin oils on the tubes.

Use painter's tape to mask around the adjacent tubes. Then wrap the rest of the tubes with newspaper and more tape. You can mask the bottle bosses as well.

Use rust remover but read the directions; some may affect paint. If you can't use the rust remover, protect the adjacent areas with duct tape; it'll protect against sandpaper.

So, rust remover-sandpaper to smooth things over. 150-220 grade will work.

Or you could use a wire wheel on a Dremel tool.

I like Rustoleum spray paints. Definitely use their universal bonding primer. Then two color coats; one coat will always show the spots you missed!

If you sand a color coat, you MUST wait the prescribed drying time of 24-72 hours as if you just put down a color coat, before spraying more color. Otherwise the paint will spiderweb all over. Don't ask my how I know, but I got the solution it by contacting Rustoleum.

If you get a drip or run, don't fret. Wait the prescribed drying time, sand it out, then wait the prescribed drying time AGAIN before repainting. Primers can usually be color coated any time after they are applied.

Your bike is white; don't sweat trying to get an exact match as you'll drive yourself nuts.

I'm repainting my electric baseboards so I have a lot of recent experience with spray painting. Love the fumes, dude! (Seriously; wear a mask.)

[VanBikeGuy]

Here is the progress I made today on de-rusting the areas. Not bad!! I thought I would have a harder time. I plan on spraying than the area around the BB and the chainstay (unfortunately, more rust there so I had to sand it down quite a bit), then just using touch up paint for the rest.


I've never sanded steel before. Is it normal to have a more pitted or discolored area? I assume once you put primer, sand, then do a couple of color coats it will be fine. Not sure what to expect, but I think I've sanded off as much as I can.

Thoughts??

[Dino Suegiù]

D-I-Y always sounds easier and more promising than it turns to be in reality, and often the result is as bad as the original problem, but you seem off to a good start.

But as others have said, matching is very difficult, especially white, and "off" often looks really bad.

Once the frame is fully sanded/primed/ready why not take a cue from the current scheme and get the base white as close as possible with, and then add some minimal drips and lines of the other (primary) colors to blend the junctions and connect with the overall scheme easier? The BB area could certainly take that. If the results are good maybe then have a good auto body shop do a complete clear coat, which will not cost much.

[Clean39T]

I tried this on an Ellis I got from JR59.....and the project quickly overwhelmed me. I should have taken it to a professional straight away. Ymmv, but probably not by much.

With regard to vapors, Rudy from Black Magic says "if you can smell it, it's getting into your lungs and doing damage". That's not something I want at this stage in life.

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

[colker]

Just ... clear coat it. That´s a nice patina you have there.

[d_douglas]

Ohhh that is so cool. I need to see this! Is this your usual size?

[VanBikeGuy]

Originally Posted by d_douglas

Ohhh that is so cool. I need to see this! Is this your usual size?

I probably should be on a 59cm, but I can make a 58cm work. Couldn't pass it up though.

I'm sourcing a fork with a bit longer steerer so that will help and I hear that Pegs ride better with a 130mm stem. Normally I ride a 58.5 top tube with a 120 stem, but a fitter once said I'm closer to a 58 tt and a 110 stem. As such, I might even try this with just a 120 stem. The main thing is getting the bars a little higher with a couple more spacers. With the current fork, i can only get a 5mm spacer under the stem and likely need 15mm to 20mm of room. I'm close though. I figured I'd sell the frame to you or clean39t if it didn't work as he can usually handle the bars being lower.

[d_douglas]

Originally Posted by billyd0012

I probably should be on a 59cm, but I can make a 58cm work. Couldn't pass it up though.

I figured I'd sell the frame to you or clean39t if it didn't work as he can usually handle the bars being lower.

ha ha ! I think Dan is outta my league, but I have local-factor on my side. Never count me out - Pegorettis are pretty cool.

[ultraman6970]

You have to sand a little bit over the paint aswell because what you want is to overlap the primer with the paint a little bit, same with the white color you want to use. U blend the old and new stuff.

I do not know what some guys love so much the POS rustoleum, but well is their adivce...

I would go car paint with U-pol primer which come in spray can and comes in white color aswell... either way you need a high built primer like u-pol so you dont have to fight later at the time to sand it evenly before applying the paint, then you blend them little by little.... as for clear coat u-pol has clear coat aswell.

u-pol is professional grade stuff used to repair cars.

The issue with rustoleum is that the paint is a lacquer, it wont dry chemically but will rely on temperature and air to do it, so will take longer to dry and cure. The other issue is what clear you will put on top of it... the rustoleum clear doesnt have UV protection and is made to clear ocasional house stuff not a top of line bike or I asure you everybody in the market would be using it because is super cheap. They cant wait a week+ to get a bike off the base color, they need to have that done in less than 12 hours... car paint does that.

There's a bike made paint but from what i heard here doesnt last too long.

This is what I would do... hope you have an airbrush....

blend really well using u-pol primer then buy tamiya paint, that thing is water based... and airbrush that till you get it right and then use u-pol clearcoat on top. Or any 2k clearcoat in a can.

As for the holes in the tubes under the rust, is not that the rust eat the tubes. The tubes were not like super sanded at the time to get the bike built and usually tubes arent super even either. Nothing to worry about and IMO there is a big chance that pegoretti used an acrylic high built primer 1st, that will cover every single imperfection in the tubes.

Hope this helps.

[Peter P.]

[QUOTE=billyd0012;2591191]... Is it normal to have a more pitted or discolored area? .../QUOTE]

There's still rust in those pits; the sandpaper can't reach them and you can expect that rust you cause you problems down the road if you don't treat it.

Use a small acid brush (the small, metal handled brushes used to spread flux on plumbing pipes, found at any hardware store) to brush rust remover on the affected areas. Treat it a couple times, then do any additional sanding to smooth the edges, especially on your BB area.

Clean the area with alcohol or mineral spirits and let dry before priming. And don't touch anything with your bare hands; your skin oils will contaminate the surface.