OT: car repair - seized bolts (ideas welcome)

[cderalow]

Originally Posted by likebikes

$500?

yeah that's even more expensive than the full snap-on kit.

I'd assume due to the force its able to exert but otherwise no idea.

seems excessive.

[AngryScientist]

Originally Posted by FastforaSlowGuy

Bav Auto closed their doors recently. Major bummer. They were awesome.


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ahh, damn. that is a major bummer.

ECS tuning has a lot of stuff for euro cars, especially maintenance items too.

also, they are nice, but i dont know how easy of a time you're going to have with a manual impact driver on things like caliper carrier bolts on a BMW. there is not much room to swing a hammer back there, which is obviously the principal on which those things work.

give the penetrating oil some time to work and definitely consider applying some heat with a maap gas torch, but be aware - penetrating oil will BURN, as well as any residual oil or grease down there, so be careful and take your time.

dont get in over your head if you can help it. once you snap a bolt head, etc - you'll need to have the car towed to a shop for help, you may need to know when to call it and bail.

[Hellgate]

In a word...flame.

[Mikej]

If you use heat, be careful not to smoke the brake caliper piston seals. Or abs sensor, if applicable. Or any other easily burned parts.

[Brian Smith]

I take it the wheels are able to be removed at this point.
How do the small bolts holding the brake rotors in position to the hubs look? Have you removed those already? If there's any chance you'll cry uncle and bring the car to a shop, try removing those bolts before the caliper bracket bolts or the caliper bolts. If you strip out the heads of the rotor bolts you'll cry uncle anyway, and probably without rendering the vehicle un-driveable.
If everything is as corroded as it sounds, I'd bet those are among the worst.
Small fire wrench may be recommended.
If you round out the hex broach of these fasteners, you may be able to get them out with an impact screwdriver after slicing a slot in them with an abrasive wheel.
When you refit rotors, you can apply some anti-seize to the new bolts, or you can omit them entirely, although omitting them can make wheel changes slightly more exacting and time consuming.

[GScot]

Originally Posted by AngryScientist

ahh, damn. that is a major bummer.

ECS tuning has a lot of stuff for euro cars, especially maintenance items too.

Second that. ECS and Europa Auto Parts have had everything I've needed for the Sportwagen TDI and now the Audi S5. S5 had several production variations in the B8 era and ECS is excellent about stocking parts for all generations so give them an excellent rating for that alone.

[zachateseveryth]

Originally Posted by FastforaSlowGuy

Buy it. It’s glorious. Mine has 87K, is xdrive and has the M Sport package and Dinan S2 tune and springs. Prior owner was a 77yr old car nut. Drives like an elegant beast. All the space and comfort you need, but when you mash the pedal it hauls. Steering is heavy and precise with decent road feel. I think the 2014 is post face lift, so there are some good tweaks to that model year.

My only complaint is the Goodyear LS run flat tires. They’re horrid. I’ll swap them for some Michelin non-run flats (and a AAA membership) first chance I get.


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Just to caution you, because the suspension is tuned around a ROF generally when you put a non-ROF tire on the car you end up with worse ride and handling characteristics.

[hoonjr]

Can't believe no one mentioned this yet. But after you get the wheels off, put some fluid film on the hub face. Better yet, get one of those 3m roloc discs and sand off all the rust/corrosion first and then apply the fluid film.

[pjm]

Originally Posted by zachateseveryth

Just to caution you, because the suspension is tuned around a ROF generally when you put a non-ROF tire on the car you end up with worse ride and handling characteristics.

Not my experience at all with my car. Ride was improved by leaps and bounds, and since the OE runflat was not really a high performance tire, the handling was improved also with high performance summer tires. Hell, the winter tires I have on the original wheels are better than the run flats on both counts.

[redir]

Originally Posted by chrismoustache

If it's really on there, the ATF / Acetone mix can sometimes get to things that others can't.

I feel like there's also a lot to be said for trying, walking away, and trying another day.

Things that have been impossible one day have been no problem the next.

+1. Never got PB blaster to do anything but make a mess. Other thing to is I always tighten a bolt first before going to loosen it.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by redir

Other thing to is I always tighten a bolt first before going to loosen it.

On purpose?

Tighty righty, lefty loosy...

Except of course, for one of the BB cups. Can't remember which one...

[redir]

Originally Posted by C40_guy

On purpose?

Tighty righty, lefty loosy...

Except of course, for one of the BB cups. Can't remember which one...

LOL yeah. A mechanic friend of mine told me to do that. I guess in theory it might help break some rust free.

The Italian BB's are oposite

[fmradio516]

on the subject, for stubborn bottom brackets, ive gotten away with breaking it free by giving the cup's face a whack with a hammer.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by fmradio516

on the subject, for stubborn bottom brackets, ive gotten away with breaking it free by giving the cup's face a whack with a hammer.

I used to do that.

But my thumb would turn purple.

[pasadena]

heat/pb blaster/leverage is the way to go
dont impact gun with abandon or you'll be drilling out a lot of bolts