#16
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#17
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I spec'd 700x42 as a max tire. I'm looking for road-handling and not necessarily one bike to rule them all. It's not too much to add internal routing for a dropper, but the bigger issue is that I don't want to pay for extra holes in the frame if I'm not going to be using them.
Sure, an externally routed dropper is always an option. But I decided on external routing for the rear brake line and continuous housing for the RD. I'm also going with a FD. I love the 1x setup for the mtn bike, but I like having a double for the road. So, having another cable zip-tied around for the dropper just seems uncouth. I'm also not sure of my mental acuity in being able to independently operate both the FD and dropper with my left hand while under pressure. I'm sorta being serious. My mtn bike was originally setup with a FD and dropper. I remember having to deliberately think whether I wanted to push the dropper lever or the FD lever. I'm leaning towards seeing if I can get a set of cable guides added to the top tube in order to route a dropper externally. If I decide no dropper, a set of unused cable guides would be a lot less noticeable than some unused holes. |
#18
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I had one on my "gravel bike" a few years ago. My bikes of this style end up on a lot of single track so I thought it would be fun. Modern mountain bikes have dropper posts. It is the single best innovation in mountain bikes and maybe all of cyling in the last 20 years, but when I had a dropper on my gravel bike I found I didn't like it.
For me a lot of the fun of riding drop bars and skinny tires on trails is that your bike is really light, so it is easier to get there, and being undergunned makes familiar trails way fun! So, if it was your only bike for riding on dirt, I could see using a dropper, or if you didn't care about weight or if you just really like that added confidence and control of getting your seat out of the way it could be good. Not for me though ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Link to that bike |
#19
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I have one on my Cannondale Slate (KS 65mm one)...it doesn't get used a ton but when I was living in NC I bombed down some crazy fast gravel and fire roads in Pisgah a few times a week and it was great to have. While my rides are less hilly up in jersey I've still used it on some hairy stuff. Really going to come down to the type of riding you're going to be doing.
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#20
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#21
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I had one on my DeSalvo for a while. I took it off for a few reasons. The biggest issue was that at the time there were not many short-travel dropper options. The LV that I used was JUST small enough to allow me to use a really flat saddle...didn't really suit me in the end. I was using an externally routed post and a PNW lever for road bars. Operating the post meant going to the flats (center), which always felt like one too many hand movements...would be better to have one controlled via a gutted shifter lever. It was also heavy...and I hated the clutter from the cable.
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#22
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Gravel dropper posts are just ridiculous. We have gravel bikes with 1x gear setups, front suspensions, and aero bars. I wouldn't be surprised if someone showed up to the next DK with a disc rear wheel.
People try to make one bike do everything, but a bike that can do everything can't do any one thing well. |
#23
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***IG: mttamgrams*** |
#24
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I guess there's not a tangible downside to a dropper post. If you want one, throw one on. But for me, I just ask myself "what's the point?" If I want a mountain bike, I'll get a mountain bike. Also, I'm in Oklahoma. The nearest extreme downhill is probably in Colorado or Arkansas. I've never been in a situation with my gravel bike where I've ever thought I needed a dropper post. |
#25
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#26
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This is why I ditched mine. I do wish I had it, but only sometimes. I bought a set of Kelly Take-Off shifter mounts to remedy the hand movement issue, but never got around to putting it all together.
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#27
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If you ride your gravel/groad/all-road bike on singletrack or sketchy chunky double track, I can see the point of the dropper. They don't need to be Colorado 3000 ft fire road descents either, just moderately technical sections where it helps you properly balance your weight to get the saddle out of the way. I might even argue that it would be more important on a bike with steep (relative to modern trail) geometry and no suspension and 2.0 tires max to increase your capability by always being able to put your weight in the right spot.
Having to place the lever on the flats would be a deal-breaker for me though. The last thing I want to do entering a technical section while underbiked is get my hands away from the brakes and shifters and narrow my grip. Accessible from the drops/hoods (like the SRAM 1x hack) or nevermind. |
#28
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#29
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So here's another option for "accessible from the drops/hoods" while still (theoretically) running a front shifter.
Rodeo 'grams |
#30
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I’ve had a dropper on my gravel bike for a year. I love it...I keep it on Fall through spring when I do a lot of single track and techy/messy stuff...I also run 2.2” tires at the same time. A dropper and fat tires kinda go together on a gravel bike.
During the season when I’m doing lots of competitive gravel I take it off and switch to 700c carbon wheels with 35mm Gravel Kings. Saves a ton of weight and the bike is far more responsive. A dropper isn’t as compelling for races for me...big weight penalty. |
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