#16
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Wow, I had no idea. Must no longer be profitable tool in this threadless age. Last time in my LBS (~6 mo ago) they had one hanging on the tools for sale pegboard. Unfortunately they're now out of business.
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#17
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Quote:
https://www.steintool.com/portfolio-...ocknut-wrench/ |
#18
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Might find something close with a search for a flare nut wrench
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#19
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No idea about that one... for 35 bucks isnt that much for a quality tool. The issue tho is that doesnt look you can use it for the bottom nut tho.
Quote:
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#20
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For saving and protecting your headset parts, I always go for the smooth joint pliers. Knipex makes the best but these are great for home use.
https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GR.../dp/B0030XMFW0 But seriously, who else is feeling really old reading this.....? |
#21
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Smooth jaw? did not know they had that... looks like a great solution IMO.
Tight to the T solution w/o scratching anything. I imagine they work really well in pedals aswell? |
#22
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the knipex "plier wrench" is my recently discovered favorite tool.
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#23
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Quote:
Really though, for users on this forum with a question about a headset locknut tool...a quality adjustable wrench such as those from Crescent, in a 12", 15", or 18" size, will not only do the just as well or better, but will have other useful applications. The headset locknut tools can only be as good as these at the task of turning the locknut without marring, not better, and they can add a little speed in a professional setting. Are you assembling 8 bikes out of boxes with the same 8-point 32mm locknut dimension? Sure, in that case these might be worth buying. Are you instead adjusting 1 headset with such a locknut and want to really cinch it down for a "lifetime" adjustment? A 15" Crescent allows you to more easily reach the goal without marring, and adjusted properly it won't mar even your thinnest 5-thread aluminium locknuts, and is compatible with 32mm and 36mm locknuts as well as walloping the backside of an L-bend 6mm hex key wrench to free the stem cone possibly done in the same setting.
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#24
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Quote:
JMO, but I rarely use a “lock washer” as it makes adjustment harder, and steel examples can cut into the threads. Plain washer or file off the tongue. A wheel installed on the fork will prevent the fork from rotating when tightening the headset. Did not read every post so forgive me if the above was already said. |
#25
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I always use a very thin t-shirt as a buffer between metal on metal, i.e. cone and crescent wrenches on headset lock rings. Works great, no scratches.
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#26
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I always used two Campy wrenches. Very tight fit. Not much play between wrench and nut. Would tighten the bottom one slightly against the top one....because headset bearing would tend to over tighten as you snugged it up.
Last edited by Ralph; 08-31-2019 at 02:46 PM. |
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