Move to Speedplay Zero?

[ianbjor]

I’ve ridden Speedplay X pedals forever, and love them.

With the Wahoo takeover and (apparent) death of replacement parts (I’m not willing to pay scalper prices for cleats yet), I’m wondering if I should consider Zeros. Never ridden them (why bother before now), but now I’m curious.

Hive mind, please tell me your thoughts.

[zzy]

They're better in virtually every way.

[Coffee Rider]

Originally Posted by zzy

They're better in virtually every way.

I concur. They hold up better and you can still get the free float you are used to. You don't get the same rocking you do on X series since you aren't clipped in with just a spring.

[berserk87]

I'm a longtime X series user too. I have a set of Zero pedals that I put on a spin/stationary bike that I just got. Figured this was a good way to test them out rather than on the roads. The biggest difference is that the force required to engage and disengage seems a lot greater. Otherwise they feel the same while pedaling. I'm not sure what the engagement will feel like in real-world conditions. Maybe easier, or maybe it will freak me out a bit. Some of this could be repetition, perhaps. I've ridden only X pedals since the late 1990's and have gotten very smooth with them. Maybe more reps are needed to feel the same way about the Zeroes.

[muttley]

I attempted to swap from X/2's to Zero's about 6 years ago and almost immediately started having knee pain issues. In the end a proper fitting addressed and resolved the knee issues, but I'm still hesitant to try Zeros again. The Zeros dont have the same range of float compared to the X series, which you may not even notice, but something to take into consideration.

I managed to find a brand new set of X/2's last year for retail price right when the prices started going up. I'll wait until after those wear out to consider anything else.

[woodworker]

Originally Posted by berserk87

I'm a longtime X series user too. I have a set of Zero pedals that I put on a spin/stationary bike that I just got. Figured this was a good way to test them out rather than on the roads. The biggest difference is that the force required to engage and disengage seems a lot greater. Otherwise they feel the same while pedaling. I'm not sure what the engagement will feel like in real-world conditions. Maybe easier, or maybe it will freak me out a bit. Some of this could be repetition, perhaps. I've ridden only X pedals since the late 1990's and have gotten very smooth with them. Maybe more reps are needed to feel the same way about the Zeroes.

In terms of the force required to disengage, that's directly related to how much you tighten the four screws that attach the cleat to the adapter. The tighter those screws, the more difficult the engagement. If it's difficult, back all of them out one-quarter turn and see if it's better, and then do that a few more times until they seem right (within reason). They should all have around the same amount of tension.

...perhaps you're already familiar with this, but I thought I'd put it out there.

[muz]

Another option is Light Action pedals. They are basically X pedals that use Zero cleats.

[DfCas]

I preferred Zero to X2. The zeros have a more connected and solid feeling. Not a rotational float difference, just a more connected sensation.

[2000CSI]

The Zero pedals have a much greater release tension by design. I find it too much and most people I know do also. The four screws that hold the cleat on have a torque spec, Speedplay even sells a torque wrench for the job. When torqued to that spec the force required to release is quite high. I believe the Zero's were intended to be aimed toward the competitive cyclist who would be more powerful and want to stay clipped in under extreme use.

[berserk87]

Originally Posted by woodworker

In terms of the force required to disengage, that's directly related to how much you tighten the four screws that attach the cleat to the adapter. The tighter those screws, the more difficult the engagement. If it's difficult, back all of them out one-quarter turn and see if it's better, and then do that a few more times until they seem right (within reason). They should all have around the same amount of tension.

...perhaps you're already familiar with this, but I thought I'd put it out there.

Good gravy! I think I found the culprit. Thanks for posting this. I used the Speedplay torque driver on the cleat bolts and the screws felt as though they were super tight. I'm guessing that this was the reason. I will try backing them out and see how that works. I have no experience with the Zeros so I figured that this is just how tight they were.

The torque driver works well with the X-series stuff, at least for me. Maybe it's too much for the Zero's?

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by ianbjor

I’ve ridden Speedplay X pedals forever, and love them.

With the Wahoo takeover and (apparent) death of replacement parts (I’m not willing to pay scalper prices for cleats yet), I’m wondering if I should consider Zeros. Never ridden them (why bother before now), but now I’m curious.

Hive mind, please tell me your thoughts.

They don't have the 'walking on ice' feeling since you are rotating the spring IN the cleat(pedal attached to it) on Zeros rather than the pedal moving freely over the spring. To ME, when switching from Campag Profit, and after using Look before that..they 'seemed' very similar in 'feel', Look style and Zeros.

As mentioned above..if you aren't looking to adjust float, 'Light Action'. AND for ease of entry and exit..the cleat MUST be flat, flat, flat. Use the base plate shims to ensure the pedal is FLAT and entry/exit is easier.

BUT, real advantages to SP...same as X series,(ease of entry, flat, options, etc).

[2000CSI]

Originally Posted by berserk87

Good gravy! I think I found the culprit. Thanks for posting this. I used the Speedplay torque driver on the cleat bolts and the screws felt as though they were super tight. I'm guessing that this was the reason. I will try backing them out and see how that works. I have no experience with the Zeros so I figured that this is just how tight they were.

The torque driver works well with the X-series stuff, at least for me. Maybe it's too much for the Zero's?

Don't back those screws out. The reason Speedplay offers those torque wrenches is because that is the torque those screws are meant to be tightened to. Thats the way it works. If you back them out you risk of cleat location drift at best or air worst the cleat will come off.. I have seen this MANY times.
If you don't like the high release tension get the Ultra Light. I think that is why the Ultra Light came after the Zero, too many people complained the release tension was too high. OR better yet, don't get Speedplay at all. I'm a fan and have sued X-Series for years, but I think the pedals are DOA. Wahoo doesn't seem to be doing much with them or maybe they are doing a redesign and will be very different than they are now.

[madsciencenow]

i've had screws come loose on the cleats a few times as well. FWIW, I've never bothered with a torque wrench on these. I tighten as tight as can be and haven't had an issue getting in or out. This said, I wonder if it's possible to get the cleats on a bind if each cleat screw isn't incrementally tightened, thereby making it more difficult to disengage?

[woodworker]

I note the objections to backing out the four screws, and I even have the Speedplay torque wrench, which I don't think is terribly useful. I also have the lube gun and have disassembled them.

I'm giving you N=1, but it's a pretty solid 1.

I have used Speedplay Zeros for around 20 years and have never had an issue because I backed the screws off of the recommended torque spec. I indicated that you should do it within reason, meaning that you back them out quarter or half turn each. They four screws still stay in place and don't back out any farther in my experience, which is probably over 50K miles and across dozens of sets. They come with blue Loctite and tend to remain secure. Moreover, the walkable version has a cover that goes over the screws as well.

Just my experience: hasn't been an issue. But I don't work for Speedplay (or Wahoo now).

Finally, Speedplay recommends that you use dry lube on the cleats. That tends to help as well.

[Dave]

I tried the zero on some custom 4-bolt shoes and couldn't get clipped in, so I gave up and kept using X type.

I've got enough X pedals and cleats to last several years. When those wear out I'll give zeros another shot.