Campagnolo SR RD Help

[PNW]

Hey all,

I am trying to get my RD off and it will not budge. I dropped it off at a local shop today to see what they can do but wanted to get advice here as well. The frame is my Moots and the bolt just won't budge..any advice? I am turning it the right way..

[R3awak3n]

what kind of tool are you using? I would try to use something with a bit of leverage (aka not a mini tool). I wonder if no grease was used or very little great. The RD is usually hard to get out even when I use a liberal amount of grease so if none is used...

[Hindmost]

Titanium on titanium? Galling...

Normal right hand threads. Hit it with penetrating oil if you haven't already.

[FlashUNC]

Might be seized.

Used a big ol Torx key on it?

[PNW]

Originally Posted by FlashUNC

Might be seized.

Used a big ol Torx key on it?

Not a huge one, maybe I need better leverage. It has a replaceable derailleur hanger.

[Kentf14]

If they didn’t use the Ti prep (anti-seizing) compound you may indeed have galling.
May come off with a little elbow grease (and penetrating oil).

Good luck!

[pinoymamba]

Remove from inside of the dropout.

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by PNW

Hey all,

I am trying to get my RD off and it will not budge. I dropped it off at a local shop today to see what they can do but wanted to get advice here as well. The frame is my Moots and the bolt just won't budge..any advice? I am turning it the right way..

Torx and may be bonded..take the der hanger off and try to unscrew the hanger from the der..

[Dave]

Using a torx wrench from the inside, it is easy to turn it the wrong way. Apply some penetrating oil and turn clockwise, like trying to tighten a bolt head on the inside of the frame.

[gfk_velo]

Originally Posted by Dave

Using a torx wrench from the inside, it is easy to turn it the wrong way. Apply some penetrating oil and turn clockwise, like trying to tighten a bolt head on the inside of the frame.

As Dave said - but

Is the RD pre- or post-2012?

Pre 2012, the top pivot bolt is retained by a single, simple, circlip.
The bolt is Ti and allen keyed.

Post 2012, there are two assemblies used - up until 2015, the bolt is two part and is best removed, if stuck, with a T30 key from the back.

2015 on, the bolt is secured with a complex interlocking Seager clip and is likewise best removed with a Torx key from the back.

If post-2012 and a torx fitting, use a good quality T30 key, inserted from from the back, use a non-mineral oil penetrator, do not soak the whole assembly, use point application at the thread - likely the hanger will have to come off to allow the assembly to be held flat (so you don't need shower penetrator all over the place) and to ease access to the back of the hanger.

Use non-mineral penetrator (so NOT WD-40) because if volatile mineral oils get into the top pivot assembly, you can end up with the two o-rings that are there to set a small amount of "slop" going soft & baggy which will give you a problem that looks like a bent hanger, but isn't - only fix for that is to fit two new o-rings and on RDs post-2012, that is expensive ... taking the top pivot bolt out is a Service Centre only job and needs a complete new bolt fitting (Service Centre Only parts and tooling). Doing this job wrong in a post 2015 RD can destroy the Embrace gear and render the RD unuseable.

Reassembly (and assembling from new) always run a M10 x 1 cleaning tap through the gear hanger and assemble with anti-seize. Pre-2012 use Ti Paste. Post-2012, Ti paste isn't required (unless the hanger is Ti) as the bolt is alloy - but anti-seize is still needed.
Please also note revised bolt torque advice from Campagnolo - 8nm not 16nm as in the Technical Manuals 2010 and 2011.

A cleaning tap is advised because usually gear hangers are anodised after the thread is cut and the anodisation can reduce the thread clearance drastically. With a steel bolt that's OK because the steel of the bolt is hard enough that it acts almost like a cleaning tap although tapping is still a much better idea than brute force and ignorance ... with a Ti or an anodised alloy bolt you get galling and the galling of either the alloy by the Ti, or from two lots of anodising with an anodised alloy bolt - from both sides, male and female - can cause binding. Add in a bit of corrosion and you have a difficult-to-remove RD.

If you get an alloy top-pivot bolt type totally stuck (the Ti ones will usually come out because the 5mm allen socket is pretty robust compared to the alloy Torx socket), send it to us at the Velotech Cycling Ltd (address on the Campagnolo website under Service Centres UK) and we can remove the top pivot bolt, usually preserve the hanger and (if necessary) fit a new bolt, o-rings and service the RD for £46.00 incl P and P in the UK. Any new parts needed (apart from top pivot and o-rings) are at additional cost.

[PNW]

Originally Posted by gfk_velo

As Dave said - but

Is the RD pre- or post-2012?

Pre 2012, the top pivot bolt is retained by a single, simple, circlip.
The bolt is Ti and allen keyed.

Post 2012, there are two assemblies used - up until 2015, the bolt is two part and is best removed, if stuck, with a T30 key from the back.

2015 on, the bolt is secured with a complex interlocking Seager clip and is likewise best removed with a Torx key from the back.

If post-2012 and a torx fitting, use a good quality T30 key, inserted from from the back, use a non-mineral oil penetrator, do not soak the whole assembly, use point application at the thread - likely the hanger will have to come off to allow the assembly to be held flat (so you don't need shower penetrator all over the place) and to ease access to the back of the hanger.

Use non-mineral penetrator (so NOT WD-40) because if volatile mineral oils get into the top pivot assembly, you can end up with the two o-rings that are there to set a small amount of "slop" going soft & baggy which will give you a problem that looks like a bent hanger, but isn't - only fix for that is to fit two new o-rings and on RDs post-2012, that is expensive ... taking the top pivot bolt out is a Service Centre only job and needs a complete new bolt fitting (Service Centre Only parts and tooling). Doing this job wrong in a post 2015 RD can destroy the Embrace gear and render the RD unuseable.

Reassembly (and assembling from new) always run a M10 x 1 cleaning tap through the gear hanger and assemble with anti-seize. Pre-2012 use Ti Paste. Post-2012, Ti paste isn't required (unless the hanger is Ti) as the bolt is alloy - but anti-seize is still needed.
Please also note revised bolt torque advice from Campagnolo - 8nm not 16nm as in the Technical Manuals 2010 and 2011.

A cleaning tap is advised because usually gear hangers are anodised after the thread is cut and the anodisation can reduce the thread clearance drastically. With a steel bolt that's OK because the steel of the bolt is hard enough that it acts almost like a cleaning tap although tapping is still a much better idea than brute force and ignorance ... with a Ti or an anodised alloy bolt you get galling and the galling of either the alloy by the Ti, or from two lots of anodising with an anodised alloy bolt - from both sides, male and female - can cause binding. Add in a bit of corrosion and you have a difficult-to-remove RD.

If you get an alloy top-pivot bolt type totally stuck (the Ti ones will usually come out because the 5mm allen socket is pretty robust compared to the alloy Torx socket), send it to us at the Velotech Cycling Ltd (address on the Campagnolo website under Service Centres UK) and we can remove the top pivot bolt, usually preserve the hanger and (if necessary) fit a new bolt, o-rings and service the RD for £46.00 incl P and P in the UK. Any new parts needed (apart from top pivot and o-rings) are at additional cost.

Thanks for the help! It's a post 2015 RD. I will work it from the inside bolt and remove the hanger to do this. Where can you find non-mineral penetrating oil?

[Hindmost]

Gram knows his stuff. But I'm puzzled. Every oil I have in the garage is a "mineral" oil.

[PNW]

The other shop I should have taken it to that was closed when I went to the other one got it off within minutes..thanks for the advice!