cleaning up the front end - cantilever brakes

[mtechnica]

Originally Posted by jemdet

Do you seriously have to braze an insert into your steerer to use this?

Threadless stem adapter with extra steps

[jemdet]

Originally Posted by mtechnica

Threadless stem adapter with extra steps

Heating a partially threaded section of steerer to blind braze an adapter tube... so that you can only ever use that fork with a single $240 stem.

Thought I'd seen it all.

[icepick_trotsky]

Seems like a hanger with a noodle to route the entry point forward would be useful for that tight squeeze.

[Xrslug]

Here’s how I just set up my bike to have a nice curve to the brake cable (same way @oldpotatoe mentioned). The other little trick that you can’t see because of the angle of the photo is to have the hanger slightly off center to the side of the stem where the cable is entering (i.e. biased to the right if you’re on the bike looking down at the stem). Doesn’t hurt brake function and makes the cable run cleaner.

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by jemdet

Heating a partially threaded section of steerer to blind braze an adapter tube... so that you can only ever use that fork with a single $240 stem.

Thought I'd seen it all.

That's Jan Heine for you. That's up there with the front derailleur he created that you have to reach down to and push a lever to make a shift https://www.renehersecycles.com/wp-c...1_f_der_wm.jpg

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by Xrslug

Here’s how I just set up my bike to have a nice curve to the brake cable (same way @oldpotato mentioned). The other little trick that you can’t see because of the angle of the photo is to have the hanger slightly off center to the side of the stem where the cable is entering (i.e. biased to the right if you’re on the bike looking down at the stem). Doesn’t hurt brake function and makes the cable run cleaner.

Just an FYI, but I've run barend shifter cables all the way under the bar tape, and it shifts just fine. Really cleans up the front end.

[Xrslug]

Interesting… looks good! I’m guilty of “this is how I was taught to do it and I’ve always done it this way” when it comes to cable routing. And I gather no binding or interference at full lock?

[MikeD]

Originally Posted by Xrslug

Interesting… looks good! I’m guilty of “this is how I was taught to do it and I’ve always done it this way” when it comes to cable routing. And I gather no binding or interference at full lock?

No, shifts great. 10 speed too. Just use quality lubed cables and housing, like Shimano SP-41. It's weird that the instructions say to cable it like you did, and that's what I've done for years. That must be the carryover from when cable housings used to be unlined and cables non stainless.

[Xrslug]

Originally Posted by MikeD

That's Jan Heine for you. That's up there with the front derailleur he created that you have to reach down to and push a lever to make a shift https://www.renehersecycles.com/wp-c...1_f_der_wm.jpg

I get that it’s not a practical choice for most, but I think it’s cool that he’s making and selling things that he likes and aren’t otherwise available (for good reason, some might say ). And the stem cap doubling as the light switch is trick.

[jemdet]

Originally Posted by Xrslug

I get that it’s not a practical choice for most, but I think it’s cool that he’s making and selling things that he likes and aren’t otherwise available (for good reason, some might say ). And the stem cap doubling as the light switch is trick.

"Making?"

[Xrslug]

Originally Posted by jemdet

"Making?"

True — he’s not running the lathe. Having manufactured by a third party and selling? In any event, he’s causing to be available something that would not otherwise be available, and I think choices are generally good. But I’m wandering increasingly far afield from the OP topic, so I’ll return to course.

[Gwerziou]

Originally Posted by robt57

Mini Motos are performance monsters I can say from experience...

Agreed. The mini-motos on my older steel CX bike absolutely rival the hydraulic disks on the fancy carbon bike under most conditions, and the modulation is actually superior. I love them!

[GOTHBROOKS]

funky munky did the trick. i kept the flexible noodle because without it the housing is just a little too short.

[dddd]

Originally Posted by jemdet

Heating a partially threaded section of steerer to blind braze an adapter tube... so that you can only ever use that fork with a single $240 stem.

Thought I'd seen it all.

You're not understanding that the stem was made in small numbers, and mainly for the purpose of incorporating a light switch atop the steerer.
If it was just another stem, of course they would have sized the clamp for the steerer.
An adjustable quill for this stem would be a great addition for anyone wanting to use the stem without a switch (something I would expect to see forthcoming if another limited run of these stems were to be commissioned).
Maybe if there were enough demand, a steerer-sized clamp might be incorporated, but this would no doubt alter the time-honored aesthetics of the classic Herse stem, and Jan really seems to treat the original designs with what I would call serious respect.

Maybe you've got a better idea for how to incorporate the switch atop the steerer, reduced or not(?). I know that NASA could do it!

You also mentioned the "double-clanger" front rod derailer, which was incorporated on his custom-built PBP race bike as something true to the original Herse bikes. But Jan doesn't sell those, since it's a specially brazed-on "retro-touch" that most riders might not immediately feel safely able to use anyway. I've ridden good distances in the foothills using old rod derailers and would say that they can be used safely, at least within the greater context of an "inherently unsafe" activity such as road biking.

[charliedid]

Originally Posted by GOTHBROOKS

funky munky did the trick. i kept the flexible noodle because without it the housing is just a little too short.

Well done