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  #16  
Old 11-16-2019, 04:09 AM
Lionel Lionel is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Aix en Provence
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John H. View Post
You can only future proof a bike based on what you know right now-
For me, I wouldn't want many of the things that you are talking about.

Geometry- If I needed something slacker it would amount to a different bike. The experience that I want from a gravel bike is a road bike that I can take on trails.
For me- A 71 degree head angle with a 50-55mm rake fork works great.
That said, I did design my custom gravel bike so that I could run a slightly shorter stem than o my stock bikes. This gives me a little bit more front center, and more foot vs. tire clearance.

Suspension- Same. If I need suspension, I also feel like I am better off on a hardtail with flat bars. I have a hardtail that is as light as most any gravel bikes- So I feel like I don't need a suspension gravel bike.
Heck- I would entertain getting a custom hardtail 29er with the axles de-evolved to 100mm front and 12x142 rear. That way I could run my gravel tires and wheels only hardtail.

Tire clearance. Be careful what you ask for- With many bikes, if you want to run a 700x45-50 tire you also have to have significantly longer chainstays.
Also, big tires work better on a 1x setup. This is because that fat rear tire wants to sit where the back side of the front derailleur also sits.
So know what length chainstays you want and what type of drivetrain you will run.
This. Exactly.
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  #17  
Old 11-16-2019, 10:21 AM
Mzilliox Mzilliox is offline
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Join Date: May 2015
Location: Southern OR
Posts: 4,876
I dont know, ive seen a few builds getting closer to hard tail territory, but id have to ride that type of geo first, seems sluggish from afar.

if you enjoy being in road bike positions, does it get more efficient for gravel? maybe a slightly more upright version to avoid going over the bars or getting weight too far over the front wheel.

what helps with rear wheel traction on 20% plus climbs? just tire volume, or is there a geo solution as well? longer or shorter stays? slacker front end?

i can still find rim brake tubular wheels, im sure any thru axle standard will be around for at least the next 5 years, and then we buy a new bike anyway, right?
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  #18  
Old 11-16-2019, 01:36 PM
rain dogs rain dogs is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Preamble: Everyone who wants to be a smartarse says "every existing road bike is already a gravel bike" cause you can ride road bikes on gravel. Yeah. But then by the same logic... every mountain bike is a road bike because hoards of people ride mountain bikes on the pavement... so it's maybe not so clever.

My point: A gravel bike is a road bike with big tire clearance, with the attention taken away from aero speed and put toward mixed surface riding. But it's still a "road" bike in my eyes anyway YMMV.

So, I don't want my gravel bike, current or future, to become a mountain bike in terms of geo and features (suspension) etc. I want my gravel bike to be as close to a road bike as it can be, while still being able to handle big tires (700x40's+) and have lots of mounting points etc. because I still ride that bike primarily on the "roads" - many paved, many not. Offroad happens (ie. paths, single track, technical stuff, roots etc.) but with much lesser frequency - I want a bike for the 80% and I'll underbike the other 20%
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Last edited by rain dogs; 11-16-2019 at 01:41 PM.
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2019, 04:18 PM
mhespenheide mhespenheide is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Burien, WA
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Me, if I were designing a gravel bike, I'd be designing it for the vast network of forest service roads out here in the Western US. So I'd start with NORBA-era geometry, like a 71/73 head/seat tube angles. Then I'd want a little bit of suspension, so I'd go with a Lauf fork and a Canyon or Cirrus Bodyfloat seatpost. The Lauf is through-axle disc brake, so you might as well do that front and rear.

But I wouldn't design it for singletrack or big drops. That's another style of bike, in my opinion.
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  #20  
Old 11-16-2019, 04:25 PM
colker colker is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 3,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhespenheide View Post
Me, if I were designing a gravel bike, I'd be designing it for the vast network of forest service roads out here in the Western US. So I'd start with NORBA-era geometry, like a 71/73 head/seat tube angles. Then I'd want a little bit of suspension, so I'd go with a Lauf fork and a Canyon or Cirrus Bodyfloat seatpost. The Lauf is through-axle disc brake, so you might as well do that front and rear.

But I wouldn't design it for singletrack or big drops. That's another style of bike, in my opinion.
Charlie Cunningham made an "adventure Bike" a long time ago. It was his racer but w/ 700 wheels, short stem, drop bars (like all his mtbs) and those extraordinary brakes of his. IT was a Gravel bike before gravel bikes were thought of..
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  #21  
Old 11-16-2019, 10:08 PM
doomridesout doomridesout is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: NorCal
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I echo everyone who says it's guided by what you want out of the experience.

My dirt roadie use case actually divides between my Seven, essentially a road bike that doesn't care if the road turns to dirt, and my BMC Monstercross with Jones bars, essentially a 2003 29er. Dirt is a spectrum, figure out the way you ride your bike and design around that...
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