new weightweenie??

[CAAD]

I'm a weightweenie but chasing grams is an expensive proposition when talking about axs.Grams per $ is out of my league. My steel gravel bike with 40c tires and mechanical red22 is 17lbs.

[BRad704]

Dropping a link to the groupset weight comparison site that I have found most helpful. All facts, no fluff.

https://ccache.cc/blogs/newsroom/202...ght-comparison

[oldpotatoe]

Originally Posted by mdeth1313

oh god, here we go again!!!

POY..Post of Yesterday...At least the title is appropriate. New WeightWEENIE.

But his $...if he wants to chase grams, groovy.

Kicker that played for Shula, Dolphins..showed up at first camp with a new mustache. Guys asked him why he grew a mustache, 'coach told me to gain some weight'....

[ls1togo]

Originally Posted by oldpotatoe

POY..Post of Yesterday...At least the title is appropriate. New WeightWEENIE.

But his $...if he wants to chase grams, groovy.

Kicker that played for Shula, Dolphins..showed up at first camp with a new mustache. Guys asked him why he grew a mustache, 'coach told me to gain some weight'....

hmmmm...not sure of the meaning of "weightWEENIE", although it doesn't sound complementary...

I appreciate most of the responses given by members and have learned in the past on forums that not all are often within my stated context...

I've had the bike bug since I was a kid and have owned and fiddled with everything from fixie's to mountain bikes to suit my fantasies or where I lived at the time, and btw, it's likely the Arizona is not the last stop, so "all around" maybe even more relevant.
I do watch the general weight of my bikes for a variety of reasons ...it has been 50 years since I weighed a 130 pounds and although I'm a average American male in my age group (about 5'10", 205#) in good health (only 1 new knee) ..I can't control the onset of aging such arthritis, slowing metabolism etc. so I try to cover as many bases as I can...continuing to ride as often as possible (4-5K annually) and in Az we can ride all year.
Fiddling with my bikes (I sold my restored/retromod Ottrott to finance the Chebacco) the Ottrott wasn't being ridden enough as it wasn't as much fun as the 585/695 (scratched that itch). I bought the Chebacco to try a couple of new things, maybe I can find some dirt and to experience electronics...as I said, so far I'm not impressed with the electro but maybe I'll grow to like it..(shifting certainly is easy on arthritic thumbs!) and I'm underwhelmed by DB's.
I've already reduced the weight of the Chebacco to a little over 18 pounds just by some OEM component switching and of course, tubeless tires (still 35's @ 310g's) and much lighter wheels (1400g's)..I can probably gain another half a pound or more by a few more changes (crank etc) certainly at a much higher cost than comparative mech components, so they may have to wait a bit but that's half the fun of the bike hobby.
Thanks to everyone for the constructive advice, insight and the very informative charts...
Now to go ride, it's a balmy 51 here...do I go fast? or smooth?...or maybe both?..
hmmm...maybe I am "WEENIE"...

[rain dogs]

I will say, this idea that being a weight weenie is bad, or that it's worthy of criticism is pretty disingenous.

Why do cyclists choose Super Record over Record or Chorus? Dura Ace over Ultegra? Red over Force? Why? It's not function, nor durability. There are pro conti teams that use Record, Ultegra... It's one of two answers:

1. Weight
2. Status

I'd sure rather be a weight weenie (as I am within reason) like the OP than a snobby, status weenie. Ultimately, if you can get comparable performance and durability out of a component - like a seatpost, why not choose the lighter one? So, please, ease up on the "oh, another dumb weight weenie". If you're one who thinks caring about weight is a big stupid eye roll, why'd you all pony up and buy Super Record or Dura Ace if those are the components you use? Those Titanium/alu. bits aren't shifting better or lasting longer than the steel Centaur or 105 ones.

Back to the OP... BUT,I think it's valuable to have context and also know the facts of what difference it makes. Weight on the flats makes so little, to no measureable real world difference (~10seconds or less per 100miles). Heck, even on climbs it makes so little difference, but at least, there, it makes a difference that may be worth considering geeking out over.

[jamesdak]

Originally Posted by rain dogs

I will say, this idea that being a weight weenie is bad, or that it's worthy of criticism is pretty disingenous.

Why do cyclists choose Super Record over Record or Chorus? Dura Ace over Ultegra? Red over Force? Why? It's not function, nor durability. There are pro conti teams that use Record, Ultegra... It's one of two answers:

1. Weight
2. Status

I'd sure rather be a weight weenie (as I am within reason) like the OP than a snobby, status weenie. Ultimately, if you can get comparable performance and durability out of a component - like a seatpost, why not choose the lighter one? So, please, ease up on the "oh, another dumb weight weenie". If you're one who thinks caring about weight is a big stupid eye roll, why'd you all pony up and buy Super Record or Dura Ace if those are the components you use? Those Titanium/alu. bits aren't shifting better or lasting longer than the steel Centaur or 105 ones.

Back to the OP... BUT,I think it's valuable to have context and also know the facts of what difference it makes. Weight on the flats makes so little, to no measureable real world difference (~10seconds or less per 100miles). Heck, even on climbs it makes so little difference, but at least, there, it makes a difference that may be worth considering geeking out over.

Well said! I'll be the first to admit a lighter bike does not equal a faster bike. My funky old 23 lb Softride with inferior mix of 8 speed Shimano parts is consistently my fastest bike and easily spanks the Cannondale CAAD8 Optimo I "weight weenied" into a 15 lb bike.

But in my experience it's still fun to chase the weight savings and most times it at least makes the bike feel faster when you ride it. Anything that gets folks out riding and enjoying their bike is worth it to me and not worth scorn but others IMHO.

[tomato coupe]

Originally Posted by Dave

I always suggest a quick calculation that shows how trivial a 100 gram weight savings is. For example, if the bike and rider weigh 82kg or 82,000 grams, then 100/8200 = .0012 or .12%.

But his goal isn't to lose only 100 g, it's to go from 21 pounds down to 16 pounds (~ 2300 g), which is pretty significant.

[rnhood]

I wouldn't keep spending on a bike that will never be that lightweight. My advice is to get rid of it and get something like the Specialized Atheos, where you can qualify as a true weight weenie, even before you start reducing weight even further.

[deluz]

I have always found it helpful to make a weight spreadsheet of the frame, fork and all the components. It can be an eye opener as to where the weight is and where it can be cut. I also prefer to start with a bare frame and build the bike from scratch choosing my own components because I enjoy the process and end up with what I want instead of swapping out parts on a stock bike.

[yinzerniner]

Originally Posted by BRad704

Dropping a link to the groupset weight comparison site that I have found most helpful. All facts, no fluff.

https://ccache.cc/blogs/newsroom/202...ght-comparison

The ccache charts aren’t 100% accurate or consistent. Just looking at the axs hydro they don’t list the components ina consistent manner, and they take weights off of other sites without doing their own work or stating the combo correctly.
Better off taking weights from sites with scale shots like r2 bike, bike radar, bike rumor, cyclist, road VC etc.

Originally Posted by tomato coupe

But his goal isn't to lose only 100 g, it's to go from 21 pounds down to 16 pounds (~ 2300 g), which is pretty significant.

OP said 16+ pounds, but also didnt really have the base numbers right not provide pertinent info on exactly what was there and what can be replaced.

Staying you’ll lose a pound and a half / 680g from just replacing the groupset from rival to red is hogwash. Also are they including pedals?

If they really are into getting it lightened up the “start from scratch” with a spreadsheet is the best way to go. Otherwise just replace the easily reachable boat anchors of the cassette and crankset and be done with it, with their ~.8 pound loss.

[tomato coupe]

Originally Posted by yinzerniner

OP said 16+ pounds, but also didnt really have the base numbers right not provide pertinent info on exactly what was there and what can be replaced.

16+, whatever. Either way, he's looking to reduce the weight by a lot more than 100 g.

[oldguy00]

Originally Posted by ls1togo

I recently bought a new bike (Parlee Chebacco) equipped with a Sram Rival AXS etap 12 speed drive train and although at this point, I'm not convinced that it's better than my DuraAce/Ultegra mechanical drive trains on my other bikes, I am somewhat unhappy with the weight of the complete bike. The use of this bike will be primarily on road as an "all around" bike. It came in at about 21 pounds and I replaced the wheels and tires and reduced the weight by about a pound and a half and a lighter seatpost and carbon handlebars brought it down some more..so my question is this...
I can reduce the weight further by another pound and a half (to a16+ range) by upgrading to Sram Red (653g diff.)
Needless to say, I'm not able to spring for a complete Red group right now, so I thought I would go one component at a time....This is my first electronic group so I'm not sure where to start
Any experience or ideas??

Respectfully, you bought the wrong bike. If weight was a concern, you shouldn't have bought a gravel / cross bike.
Maybe the new Trek Domane would have been a better choice as it is more of a road bike, that can pretend to be a gravel bike due to tire clearance of up to 40mm. Though I'm not sure of the weight on that either.

[Dave]

I thought that using 100 grams as an example would allow multiplying that 0.12% by 5 if someone wanted to drop 500 grams. I guess that went beyond the comprehension of some posters. There are quite a few items that save 100 grams or less at a large cost.

[tomato coupe]

Originally Posted by Dave

I thought that using 100 grams as an example would allow multiplying that 0.12% by 5 if someone wanted to drop 500 grams. I guess that went beyond the comprehension of some posters.

Maybe the guy who incorrectly calculated a simple percentage shouldn't be implying others can't multiply by 5 ...

[yinzerniner]

Originally Posted by oldguy00

Respectfully, you bought the wrong bike. If weight was a concern, you shouldn't have bought a gravel / cross bike.
Maybe the new Trek Domane would have been a better choice as it is more of a road bike, that can pretend to be a gravel bike due to tire clearance of up to 40mm. Though I'm not sure of the weight on that either.

The Domane is porker with the suspension bits, probably 2-300g more than the Chevacco which is honestly not the worst platform to start off at as the frame fork is in the 1050/450 region if I remember correctly

If the OP doesn’t need the tire clearance and prefers road riding geo then there are def better matches, but for pure weightweenieism it’s not the worst place to start. But as deluz stated if you’re committed to dropping the weight then you need to know where it is.

17lbs / 7.7kg on a 1500g frameset disc bike for road riding with pedals isn’t impossible but it’s tough. On my 1300g frameset Crux I plan on getting it close to 7kg with pedals and a Rival/Red group mix, but have a few light items on hand.