Vintage MTB overhaul vs New Gravel Bike quandry

[unterhausen]

I have an old mountain bike that I use for commuting. I used to ride 20 mile rides on it when my kids wanted to go riding with me, and it just tired me out. It costs a lot to do a drop bar conversion and might not be worth it. On the good side, they had really long stems, so you might be able to achieve your preferred position.

[bmeryman]

I've built a number of '80s mountain bikes as commuters, and something like the following is usually my order of operations:

Fit: I recommend the Surly Open Bar in 40mm rise.

Drivetrain: If you're eager to upgrade the drivetrain, Microshift has a lot of good options these days (Advent if you're looking for 1x). They offer both trigger and drop bar shifters for the Advent rear derailleurs.

Tires: Nice tires make a world of difference on these old mountain bikes.

I'd recommend new brake pads as well - that can help the overall feel quite a bit.

Enjoy!

[retropean]

Originally Posted by bshell

I don't see the logic in swapping out a triple chainring set up for 1X if I planned to do loaded trips of any kind. Gimmee all of the gears.

$0.02

True. I think my mindset sometimes is stuck in the fixed gear mindset of simplify simplify simplify.

[retropean]

Originally Posted by bmeryman

I've built a number of '80s mountain bikes as commuters, and something like the following is usually my order of operations:

Fit: I recommend the Surly Open Bar in 40mm rise.

Drivetrain: If you're eager to upgrade the drivetrain, Microshift has a lot of good options these days (Advent if you're looking for 1x). They offer both trigger and drop bar shifters for the Advent rear derailleurs.

Tires: Nice tires make a world of difference on these old mountain bikes.

I'd recommend new brake pads as well - that can help the overall feel quite a bit.

Enjoy!

Thanks. Do you have any thoughts on wheels? I am wondering if it’s worth upgrading because these are quite heavy, or if it’s the nature of the beast. Tires will help the feel though I’m sure.

[gdw]

What kind of touring are you planning to do? Pavement and gravel/dirt roads... any singletrack? How many days will your average trip last? Will you be camping, credit card touring, a bit of both? If you're camping is your gear light weight and low bulk/volume. The answers you provide will make it easier for us to help determine whether your current bike or a new one suits your needs.

[Ken Robb]

I made my 1989 MB-3 into a neat urban assault/grocery-getter/beach cruiser by swapping the original flat bars for some pull-bars that Rivendell used to call "Priest Bars". They were designed to be used with the original stems on MT.Bikes of that vintage so I could still use the original brake and shift levers. I could also have used Moustache bars with a Dirt Drop stem.

[retropean]

Originally Posted by gdw

What kind of touring are you planning to do? Pavement and gravel/dirt roads... any singletrack? How many days will your average trip last? Will you be camping, credit card touring, a bit of both? If you're camping is your gear light weight and low bulk/volume. The answers you provide will make it easier for us to help determine whether your current bike or a new one suits your needs.

Yes maybe should’ve added this to the first post. Will do now.
Gravel dirt road, couldn’t do single track with panniers but it’s the sort of thing I’d love to hit if I was in the neighborhood. Average trip probably 2 days but some 5 days in there with resupplies. Camping. I buy “ultralight” hiking gear when I need new stuff but run my old heavier gear when I can.

[mtechnica]

https://www.poseidonbike.com/product...41091886055575

[yinzerniner]

... as others have stated the brain power and cost involved with trying to limit the compromises are probably better spent searching for a more modern rig that's designed for your intended rides.

Something like a Kona, Salsa, Marin, Giant, Surly, Jamis along with the aforementioned direct to consumer brands will help you lose 8-10lbs on the bike that you're better off putting into carrying capacity. Even house brands from Merlin and Chain Reaction are really nice nowadays.

[bmeryman]

Originally Posted by retropean

Thanks. Do you have any thoughts on wheels? I am wondering if it’s worth upgrading because these are quite heavy, or if it’s the nature of the beast. Tires will help the feel though I’m sure.

I'd leave upgrading down the line until you determine whether the old mtb is the direction you'd like to take. New wheels will certainly take you close (or past) the cost of one of the new gravel bikes that other folks have recommended.

Additionally, if the rims are aluminum and double wall already, you won't see too much of an upgrade unless you go with a fairly fancy build. There's something to be said for basic 32h 3x 26" wheels - almost any shop in the country will have a spoke on hand to swap out quickly.

[classtimesailer]

That Mountaincat is pretty nice and light with its Prestige tubing, all XT, and a top tube shorter than most for its seat tube. Flat bars suck for cruising. I’ve done a drop bar rigid prestige with bar end shifters and Rat Trap Pass tires that was sweet. Search for Jan Hein’s “All Road”

[charliedid]

I've toured plenty over the years on lightweight Ritchey and Specialized bikes with 26" wheels. This bike mostly seems awkward regarding the set up for me. I'd swap the saddle and post as well as the bar stem levers etc to both save a little weight and get better ergonomic features. Depending on wheels I'd also swap them for handbuilts and really nice tires. Fresh brake tracks, new rear hub etc.

That said it seems like a ton of work and money unless you can do it all and have the parts but I know people love a good project. The internet is chock-full of people converting these bikes right now and many seem solid.

Fast forward to 2021 and I think my next "touring" bike will be something modern adventure built like the TREK checkpoint ALR or SL Carbon. I "might" be done touring in the tradition road sense as I have done for so many years.

[C40_guy]

Originally Posted by mtechnica

The problem with old mountain bikes is they’re heavy and because of the geometry the reach will probably be way too long if converted to drop bars, and it will handle bad with a stubby stem.

That's the problem with my much-loved Wicked Fat. Or maybe my aging body...when the bike was new I had no problem racing down steep slopes. Now I feel like I sit way too far forward to traverse a downhill safely and long for the slack angles of a new MTB...

[pdonk]

I will shortly be rebuilding my dekerf for similar use or a drop bar bike. just waiting for Chris to finish the fork and repaint. Based on how I had it built before I sent it in xtr, syncros, suspension fork, knobby tires it weighed about 25 lbs. I expect it will weigh about 21 lbs how I plan to set it up and be pretty good for gravelly and family type riding.

My other vintage mtb - a brodie, weighs in at a respectable 25 lbs, before adding a rack and pannier, rides like a pig once they are on. I think I understand the push to frame bags and large seat bag/rolls - no weight of a rack and they probably change the weight distribution better.

[sparky33]

The appeal of a vintage mtb is that it can be a good serviceable bike with minimal expense to freshen cables, brakes and tires.

If you are going to spend any significant money then just get something better to begin with.

The Ritchie is a good choice.