Older ti MTB or should I go with a newer model?

[jpritchet74]

A few years ago I bought this Merlin ti MTB frame - it was my dream frame when I was back at college in the mid-90's.


I wanted to be able to run disc brakes though so I sent the frame to Dean Titanium (after talking with Ari at Interbike that year about it) to have a disc mount added. Then I built it up with mostly "modern" parts. Since I "need" to have an SRM on all of my bikes I found a wired triple SRM for it.

The first time I rode it I went on a ride with a friend that's an experienced mountain biker - where I am a 99% roadie. We did a good single track climb and then bombed the single track descent - then I hit a rock, went over the bars, slammed the shoulder and separated said shoulder - all tendons torn. We were only halfway down the descent, so walking down the rest of the way with the bike was pretty miserable. The bike sat collecting dust for a couple of years before I rode it again at a local park (Briones Park for you East Bay guys) - but I had no idea where I was going and it seemed that everything was too steep to ride (even with a triple). My only pics from that ride:



Disheartened, I sold the bike to my co-worker. This pic is as it is now under his ownership.


Lately I have been thinking about hitting the trails again though - luckily I can borrow my old bike whenever I want, I am going to give the MTB a go again, but my question is this: would I want to buy this one back from him or go with something completely new? The fork on this bike is new as of a couple of years ago and has a longer crown to axle length than what the frame was designed for, which should give a slacker head tube angle (which seems to be the thing now). My OTB experience could probably have been prevented by a dropper post and actually putting my weight behind the saddle, so a dropper post isn't a bad idea.

What are your guys' thoughts?

[Dude]

Not sure of where/what type of riding you do OR your budget, but I'd buy new bike. Go to a good bike shop and test ride a hardtail, "cross-country" full suspension and an "all mountain" full suspension bike. Ride the same trail with each one and it will be pretty obvious (to you) which one feels good.

There's a lot of technology out there, you don't need the best. Having spent considerable time on both 27.5 (650b) and 29 wheels, I'd recommend 29 wheel size. But that's me, I'm more comfortable on 29 than 27.5 (I'm riding on classic east coast terrain, pitchy, rooty and rocky). In the santa cruz mountains I felt most comfortable on an all mountain (slack front end, 6" of travel) bike. Though I could get by fine on my ss 29er.

I'll stop here, I've already given you more info than you've asked.

[jimcav]

I have a Ti hardtail and switched to FS for comfort (mostly neck and back arthritis type stuff and I don’t like getting rattled over 2-3 hours). For 1 hr rides the hardtail is still fine. Anyway I put a taller 29 fork on it and wide bars and shorter stem and it is fun. I prefer that to the narrow bar long stem previous iteration of how it was when I bought it. I’ve gone over the bars on it and my FS. In all but one case it was my braking errors that caused that. The one exception was on FS when a pedal strike kicked something up into the front tire and fork gap and over I went. So if u can fit on the bike, it certainly can be a great ride. Modern FS does allow a lot more comfort and margin of error if u pick a line above your skill level, but only to a point. Hope that helps
Jim

[jpritchet74]

No pics with me on the bike.

The fit on my road and TT bike is dialed in, but I have no idea on the proper reach on the MTB. Getting a fit isn't a bad idea.

I like the idea of going to the Santa Cruz factory and renting bikes for test rides on the trails next to their factory. Then I could compare to this bike on those same trails....

[prototoast]

I'm primarily a road rider, who occasionally dabbles in mountain biking, and also lives in the East Bay. Most of the trails around here are awful--they're all up, up, up, down, down, down. Mostly fire roads.

I previously had a hardtail XC bike, but sold it, and now when I hit the trails, I switch between a rigid 29er, gravel bike, and occasionally just my road bike. This makes some of the simpler trails more fun. That works for me, and I think your Merlin would be fine for that.

So instead of jumping in with a new bike, I would try picking your trails to match your bike and ability. If you like that, and start pushing the trails and your comfort level, then maybe try to get yourself a better bike.

Feel free to PM me if you'd like some more personalized trail recommendations.

[chunkylover53]

If you are 99% roadie as you say, and have the usual mtb handling skills of a roadie (sorry, but it's true), definitely go for a new bike. The geometry changes have been significant in recent years, hardtail or suspension, (think slacker HTA, steeper STA, shorter chain stays, longer top tube + short stem). Not only do these changes make for a much better ride, but they make dramatic improvements in downhill handling. You'll find the bike way easier to handle (I'm thinking that Merlin has crazy steep angles), and have a much better time

[Jaybee]

Your unfortunate OTB incident would have probably been prevented by any number of advances in MTB technology since that sweet Merlin was made. Bigger wheels providing better rollover, fat low-pressure tubeless tires increasing traction, better suspension forks with less dive, slacker head tube angles and longer fork offset putting the wheel further in front of you, dropper posts making it easier to get your weight back.

This isn't to say you can't ride an older 26er on trails - just that you should try a modern bike, and see if the capabilities of that bike jive with what you want to ride.

[Ken Robb]

And a smartass has to suggest looking farther ahead and slowing down where called for.

[NHAero]

Also, that Merlin is a fine candidate for a dropbar conversion to a monster cross!

[d_douglas]

That is one gorgeous old hardtail. I rode a handmade Rocky Mountain of a similar era and had a disc tab welded onto it. It was a fine bike, but once I tried out a modern hardtail (a Chromag 29er) I understood the differences in capability between new and old bikes.

Your Merlin is worth a bit to a collector, so you could make some money back on that. I would sell the 26er specific parts and shift old drivetrain parts onto a new frame.

That said, if you are cruising trails and exploring, I don't see why that bike wouldn't work? I might use a shorter stem and slide the saddle back on the rails to make it more forgiving to rider error

[bmeryman]

I'll echo the recommendation of test riding some newer bikes. If any brands or shops are doing demo events near you you'll have a great opportunity to try out a few bikes.

Many 'entry-level' bikes from major mountain bike brands ride so much better than anything from 15 years ago. As general suggestion, I like the Santa Cruz Chameleon for its versatility, modern geometry, and reasonable price.

But really, I think you'll find which options you prefer if you get to a demo day.

And have fun out on the trails regardless of what you're riding!

[mtechnica]

The smart thing to do is get a modern bike with new school slack geometry, a dropper post, and decently wide tubeless tires. Old mountain bikes really and truly suck compared to modern ones.

[jpritchet74]

Originally Posted by chunkylover53

If you are 99% roadie as you say, and have the usual mtb handling skills of a roadie (sorry, but it's true)

This is very true.

[weaponsgrade]

I'll echo all the other points about there being big improvements in mtb tech since that Merlin. I've got a 90s hardtail (26" wheels), 29er hardtail, and 29er FS. I mostly ride the 29ers. The 26er gets pulled out for special vintage occasions. It always takes me some time to get reacquainted with the smaller wheels. There's this unsettling feeling that I'm going to bury that front wheel and go over the bars. Modern geo and big wheels give a lot more confidence when descending and smooth out the ride. They can also climb quite well and are much more nimble than I initially thought.

I did have to try and adopt a more aggressive/forward position - especially with the 29er FS - to take advantage of the suspension, dropper, and prevent the front wheel from washing out. I'm used to hanging my butt off the back of the saddle. That technique though doesn't really translate to well to the newer stuff. I sorta had to learn to rebalance my weight to be more forward and trust that the slack headtube and big wheels would do a lot to prevent over the bar flips.

[Tony]

Originally Posted by pritchet74

my question is this: would I want to buy this one back from him or go with something completely new?

Go with a modern mtb. There's a huge difference, lots of advancements in all areas compared to your old bike. I have a similar old school bike, Rocky Mountain Altitude team only steel. I use it as a city bike. I wouldn't waste my time with your old bike, the new stuff is so much more fun.